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-30 and wont start

Gas in oil was from dipstick. Drained it this morning and there was close to 2 gallons in the block. I did discover a loose plug wire from when i cleaned the plugs. I pulled all plugs last night, cleaned them and left them out overnight
Battery was charged indoors at 2 amps. Plug wires were in correct order. I plan on returning the battery for a new one, it shouldnt have died that quick.
I am gonna pull the injectors, clean and reinstall new orings once i can get the jeep moved to the garage. Alternator and starter test will be done once in garage also since i have a feeling there is a electrical issues somewhere.
Waiting for a ride to get oil and filter now, then i will see what happens. Is there anything i should do since i had all that gas in the oil pan? I left the dipstick out and filler off for about 3hours when i drained it to help vent it out.
 
Tps was replaced during summer and adjusted per cruizers renix tips.
Grounds are clean and i get 0 ohms from all sensor plugs to battery.
The coil is the original stock one and is rusty as well as slightly puffed.
 
One thing if your jeep is flooded (sounds like it is) is to leave the plugs out, and crank it (be sure to have a fire extinguisher handy).

It really sounds like you need to get some heat on your whole jeep, I have one of those redneck garage things and a 125K-BTU Mr Heater http://www.mrheater.com/product.aspx?catid=47&id=35

Winterizing is a pretty serious issue for all vehicles, I'm sure Jeff can relate.

I ended up buying a coolant heater that circulates, I tied it into the 5/8" heater hoses, however I had to put on longer hoses and mount it low. The one I got (I don't know what model, I think it's a zerostart or marys), is a big aluminum thing, I tied it in so it pulls coolant from the heater core, into the water pump and then back through the engine. I take it off sometime around may, and put it on around november, starting an engine that's nearly already hot is much easier than fighting with a cold motor.
 
Ya, i need serious heat. I surrounded the jeep with matresses and put my camping grill under it for 5 hours yesterday. It was sunny and up to 0, still didn't help. It keeps flooding out. It will fire, but stumbles for 3-5 seconds and dies.
 
I'm trying to think where all the fuel is coming from? And I'm not getting any good ideas, just a list of possibilities.

MAP will make it run really rich, usually the MAP vacuum line.
The fuel regulator can do this, fuel will leak directly into the intake manifold.
Injector stuck open, usually one cylinder, which won't keep the rest from firing.
AIC stuck shut, but giving the the motor a *little* pedal will keep it running until you let your foot off the pedal.
Blocked airflow, something between the airbox intake and the TB. Which got me to wondering if an oil clogged air filter plus 0 degree temperatures (oil gets almost solid) could be blocking off the airflow (I've seen it with wet air filters).
Lastly, only seen it once, the charcoal canister is totally full of fuel and the fuel is running into the intake through the canister purge line. I pulled one charcoal canister that must have weighed over five pounds and was totally full of fuel.

I guess it is also a possibility the CPS is missing beats, what I think of as a CPS misfire. Not missing enough beats to completely kill the engine, but enough to get fuel buildup and plug wet fouling. You'd likely have to run it this way for a long time for much fuel to buildup and pollute your engine oil.

If you mess with the MAP vacuum line be very careful it has to be really brittle from old age and the cold. These lines rub through on the bottom from motor vibration, the MAP gets a good atmospheric pressure reference signal, but no (or very little) intake vacuum signal. The ECU defaults to full rich. The motor will/may run, but blow clouds of smoke and run very poorly. It can be hard to keep it from stalling.

I've been trying to think of something that would cause your excess fuel issues related to the cold. And all I'm getting is WAGs (wild arsed guesses).
 
After reading all of the information that everyone has provided and the continued fuel symptoms of the jeep, I'm with 8Mud. I don't think you have a cold related issue, I think you have an existing fuel issue that has become aggravated because of the cold. You need to figure out why you have excessive amounts of gas going into the cylinders and eliminate the fact that it happens to be really cold outside.
 
Does the '89 system have the return fuel flow with a vacuum controlled regulator? My '93 F150 had this. When the regulator went bad, it kept too high a fuel pressure behind the fuel injectors, which let them pump too much fuel into the cylinders and fouling the plugs our eventually. A new regulator fixed it.
 
Just had an issue with a 96. It would run for 10- 15 seconds and then die. I changed a couple sensors and still no go. I got it to run smooth one night at around 2000 rpm and while I was sitting there trying to warm it up the "GEN" light came on.... The battery never showed signs of being low charged or anything. Changed the alternator because it was obviously not charging anymore and problem solved. For the short time it would run, it was really rough.

What does your voltage gauge say when it is running for a second?
 
Fuel regulator is 3 months old, no leakage behind vacumn line.
All vacumn lines are less than 6 months old.
I will check filter and canister.
If i can get oring kit i will pull and clean injectors since its on my list to do.
Voltage goes up, but it dies before it gets to about 12
I will check iac and reclean if needed.
 
also since you're having fuel issues this bad I would stop putting your camping stove anywhere near the thing ;)
 
Voltage goes up, but it dies before it gets to about 12


As said before, you may have a bad charging system and or a bad battery. Charge the battery and have the alternator checked. Better yet, get a known good alternator and try it.

Cranking the engine over repeatedly with the pedal to the floor could cause folding in the combustion chamber and the excess fuel leaking past the piston rings into the oil pan.

How fast does the engine crank? The starter could be on its way south after all that cranking thus aggravating the problem.
 
It sputters and dies when i release the key.


what if you give it a little gas. I was running a crappy battery in my 96 xj for a little while, and i noticed the idle air control servo gets a little shy when you're running low voltage. I found that giving it some gas until it started to warm up/get the voltage up to normal and it would stay running.

I'm going to take the IAC apart and clean it sometime soon, though it seems now that i have a good battery it's working well.
 
Picked up new map sensor and a injector rebuild kit. Gonna pull and clean the injectors and see what happens. Anything i should look for or tips for cleaning the stock injectors?
 
AND WE HAVE A WINNER¡¡¡
Replaced map sensor, decided to give it a try before pulling the injectors since its snow/sleet outside and bam, fired right up. Fires off with 3-4 seconds crank time. Hell, its never started so quick.
 
Hooray.., thanks for the update.., many just leave us hanging, lol.
 
I know, i hate that. Especially when i am having the same issue. Just got to change the oil and i should be gtg. Plus, with all that gas flooding the engine all the carbon in combustion chamber and the sludge in the block should be pretty well cleaned out. Alot of black crap came out the tailpipe, and the oil had alot of sludge come out.
 
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