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a couple people have done this, you just need the inner C knuckles of a CJ, then use all D44 outers. The only Con (besides time and money) is that you can't do 5 on 4.5 bolt pattern, but I don't consider that a Con. Pros are better brakes, steering, bearings, hubs. it is especially worthwhile if you already have the D30 locked and geared.
Brett...i will be able to build this for under 500 bucks, my buddy has reciepts for everything(balljoints,rotors,brake pads,warn premiums,calipers,he has the stub,knuckles for hysteer,spindles,dust sheild) he wants to help build it and ill get all this crap for the price of 100 bucks. another buddy has a cj narrow track for 20 bucks, ill pick up another xj d30 front and build this mofo. only thing that will kill me the inner shafts...dunno wheather to have some made or just send in some 30 inners and have them cut down and resplined, you still up here in MI
yeah i'm in MI for one final school year. I don't see why you would need the shafts cut down, just put the knew inner Cs on so that the u-joint is inline with the balljoints.
What year CJ's will have the inner knuckle that is needed? Also, what are the other options to a fairly complicated mod like this? What other front diffs would be close to bolt in or require less modification? Cost/availability/durability of those other front diffs Vs. this mod?
only thing that will kill me the inner shafts...dunno wheather to have some made or just send in some 30 inners and have them cut down and resplined, you still up here in MI
You shouldn't need anything other than stock inner shafts that use the larger 760x axle u-joint......you're still using the D30 carrier, so the splines are the same. Just make sure your length stays the same when you put on the CJ inner C's. Since you're upgrading consider going with Warn crmo inner shafts, and be sure to use snap rings in the u-joints instead of the stock c-clips.
According to billvista's writeup, there are no stock shafts that will work after you install a set of CJ inner knuckles. The offset is different enough for the OEM inners not to work. That's the "gotcha" of this build. You'll have to have custom inners made. Like Richard said, it's a good time for a set of chromos!
IMO, a 30/44 hybird is the ultimate axle for 35" tires. I've spent over a year not building a 30/44 or an HP44 because I can't decide if I'll stick with 35's or not. If I were definitely sticking with 35's, I would go with the 30/44.
The inner axles with CJ knuckles need to be an inch or so shorter, but having custom axles cut is no big deal. If I were to go this route, I'd retube the 30 & use stock length, Warn waggy axles.
Paul
I was going to build up a hybrid just like Billavista did but my last wheeling trip out I spun the passenger side axle tube in the housing on half bald 32x11.5 A/Ts. The housing and tubes are weak. Just build a 44 and be done with it.
I was just wandering if you loose or gain any track width with the 44/30 hybrid? I have all the parts to do it including flat top knuckles free except the shafts. Seems like a good way to get larger brakes, lockouts and rid of the unit bearings cheap plus convert bolt patterns.