3 link diy?s

[SlowXj]

20k miles and probably 30 rides on my 3 link. Upper has an iro frame side joint and a jj axle joint. Both are original with zero signs of slop.... Your results may very.

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[4x4JeePmaNthINg]

VAhasnowaves, I'll play with some heims on pricing, any recommendations?
How much longer must the upper link be to really impact the driveshaft position towards the tc output. I'm fine with sacrificing turning for driveline angle.

 

[ShoeterMcgav]

My body side heim seized to the bolt and had to cut it out... the misalignment spacers are what it froze to. I don’t think that’d be an issue with a JJ.

My axle side had a heim insert of sorts... the IRO flex joint seems to be, IMO, a better design. My upper is like 2”s longer then the lowers (rock crawler mid arms)

 

[smokeyyank]

VAhasnowaves, I'll play with some heims on pricing, any recommendations?

EMF is the best but the most.

Currie JJ are always a solid choice.

 

[Evan03]

I think 30rides in 30k fits the mostly pavement scenario that's probably not even 6000 miles off the pavement

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[4x4JeePmaNthINg]

Joints in the mail, both lca are flex ends but only one side adjustable. Uca will be adjustable at the body side, clevis to press in flex joint. Unless I waited and trussed with tnt, but I don't want to raise the mount any.

Has anyone done diy shackles with welded on JJs or similar. I know boost makes some but not the length I'll need.

 

[Evan03]

I was thinking a bout heim in the shackle.

I think the boost shackles can be shortened by a fuzz. They're 6.5"

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[4x4JeePmaNthINg]

yeah, im still thinking on what i want to do there. needing about 4.75-5" shackles, but narrow enough theyll clear the mount.

ive never seen a heim on a shackle but it sounds neat.

 

[smokeyyank]

Are you talking about something like this......

https://www.alcanspring.com/orbit-eye.htm

 

[4x4JeePmaNthINg]

That's a cool concept, but I was thinking of pretty much the boost shackle idea in a different size, If this system doesn't eat those joints. Maybe it's a bad idea for a DD

 

[RCP Phx]

That's a cool concept, but I was thinking of pretty much the boost shackle idea in a different size, If this system doesn't eat those joints. Maybe it's a bad idea for a DD

Those joints won't eat bushings like a typical grease-able shackle but do allow lateral movement of the axle (not good for a DD).

 

[RCP Phx]

I'll add that you could run a rear trackbar or better yet a Watts system.

 

[XJEEPER]

A shackle with a Summit Machine Flex joint could be used to fab your own shackle to the length that you desire.
I run these for my trackbar and on my TnT YLink arms. They are superior to a Johnny Joint and I having logged over 12yrs and 120k miles on mine, so durability is not a question.

https://www.summitmachine.com/large-flex-joint.html

I'm not following the logic of these not working on a shackle for a daily driver...... this design is to eliminate suspension bushing bind.

They only allow slight lateral movement of the axle when the rear suspension is articulating. When traveling down the road, with both tires operating on the same plane, they would not allow any lateral movement of the axle.

 

[RCP Phx]

Johnny joints, Currie Joints, RE joints, etc are all pretty much the same candidates for such a project.

 

[XJEEPER]

Johnny joints, Currie Joints, RE joints, etc are all pretty much the same candidates for such a project.

Unlike the joints you've listed (Johnny=John Currie=Currie joint, same unit), Summit machines a grease groove into their races, which provides for uniform grease distribution and a quiet running joint. :thumbup:

Currie Joints are also non-adjustable, so bushing pre-load is set and cannot be modified to dial in how the bushing performs. Their center ball also lacks the nickel plating that the Summit joint includes, so long-term corrosion is an issue with the Currie units.

$110 tool to assemble, disassemble a Currie Joint VS Summit Machine Joint tools are under $30.

 

[RCP Phx]

I'm not a fan of the Currie's either, I been on my same set of well greased RE's for 17yrs now. I bought a rebuild kit but never used it!

 

[4x4JeePmaNthINg]

A shackle with a Summit Machine Flex joint could be used to fab your own shackle to the length that you desire.
I run these for my trackbar and on my TnT YLink arms. They are superior to a Johnny Joint and I having logged over 12yrs and 120k miles on mine, so durability is not a question.

https://www.summitmachine.com/large-flex-joint.html


I'm not following the logic of these not working on a shackle for a daily driver...... this design is to eliminate suspension bushing bind.

i have no idea if they dont work for a dd, was just spit balling if they may be a bad choice or not.

why dont more vendors make something like this, cost?

 

[XJEEPER]

i have no idea if they dont work for a dd, was just spit balling if they may be a bad choice or not.

why dont more vendors make something like this, cost?

I've owned 3 XJ's over the past 34yrs. My first rig build was much different than my current XJ build, both from an available component perspective, as well as from a disposable income/project budget perspective.

Speculation would be the cost comparison between a flexible, serviceable joint VS poly bushings. XJ owners are generally tight-wads.

 

[Evan03]

The boostwerx diy balistic joint shackle is like 100 bucks. The cost per balistic joints like 50.
Means the material provided and time to cut and bend is free

Wish I'd of seen this before doing the suspension shackles.

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[4x4JeePmaNthINg]

ill be playing with the upper link soon. ill try to word this lol, would anyone say it matters if I make the clevis end fit the angle to the UCA mount angle vs cutting the tube to the angle, and building the clevis end square? mainly im curious if one way is stronger than the other.

maybe this can clarify what im thinking:
1)UCA tube square, bend the clevis/fork end, where the bolt goes through, to fit the UCA mount angle
or
2)cut the UCA dom at the angle that would allow a square built clevis/fork end to fit the mount.


somewhere between the two options ill play around with bending PVC to see if I might be able to clean up the arms obstruction to up travel. hazard front tube bender acquired cheap, hopefully .120 wall is thick enough not to kink.

I settled on JJs for 3 of the joints, barnes enduro weld on flex ends for the other LCA joints. 2x2x.25" LCA, 1.5"x.120 UCA dom, planning on building the clevis as mentioned above.
I have not settled on shackles to compliment the HD relocators, still need to see if the current stock IRO shackles will hit the relocator brackets. Im needing about 4.75" shackles for a good 45*, my current shackles will work if they dont clash. otherwise IRO booms or RE 5" shackles should be close. trying like hell not to get this above 4.5" lift.