242 Wiring

[wadea7]

Mine already had the bulb, and it is green. The just follow the wiring from the tc to the connector above the transmission. It should be no longer than 10 inches to the connector with the dash light wire, if you have it. I beleive it's the middle wire (blk/wht) for the full-time light. Good luck!

Wade

 

[Sparkman]

Sparkman,

Have you done yours yet? I'm still having a lot of rattling noises that seem to be coming from the front. I don't believe it's the tc chain, since it doesn't do it when I release the gas.. Any ideas??

Wade

No, I need to buy one first, LOL. Soon, very soon. I don't know what your rattle could be. Shift linkage?

I have a question for you guys. Did you change anything other than the bezel regarding the shifter? I saw a guy on ebay who was selling the 231 after he swapped in a 242 and he was selling the shifter gate, the thing that makes you pull the lever over to go into 4L.

 

[EdwardNorth]

I think I get it now, so you're saying that the connector/harness to the dash is not in the engine bay at all, that it's actually resting on top of the tranny? Maybe that's why I couldn't figure it out, because I was looking at the place in the engine bay where 3 or 4 different wiring harnesses all connect together.

 

[EdwardNorth]

No, I need to buy one first, LOL. Soon, very soon.

I have a question for you guys. Did you change anything other than the bezel regarding the shifter? I saw a guy on ebay who was selling the 231 after he swapped in a 242 and he was selling the shifter gate, the thing that makes you pull the lever over to go into 4L.

I was actually going to ask about that. I have to get it running before I'll be able to tell if I can access all the modes or not. Did you replace yours with a selec-trac specific one Wadea? You're supposed to be able to access Full Time before the notch right?

 

[wadea7]

I left the linkeage alone and switched out the bezel. No problems shifting between 4lo and full-time. I just adjusted the linkeage a little, but it was actually not an issue..

I thought the noise could be the linkeage, but it does not go away in 4wd, or when I pull on the shifter.. Drive shaft seems ok.. Thought it might be a motor mount going bad? I did lower the engine a little to get to the top bolt of the tc. Any other ideas?

Wade

 

[EdwardNorth]

Wade,

As to your noise problem, I think I might have had the same issue. I finished putting the XJ back together last night and went for a drive, and everything ran fine. This morning when I left home in the XJ, I noticed this random thumping noise. It felt like is was coming through the floor and I could "feel" the thump with my feet. It started doing it while I was sitting still and also moving at low speeds. Then I got on the freeway and would hear it a bit every time I went over an average bump.

I started thinking about what it could be, and I thought about the crossmember bolts. Specifically the 4 nuts that you put up inside the center part of the crossmember, going onto the bolts that hang down from that rubber tranny brace or whatever it is. I remembered that I torqued them before removing the jack stand that was holding up the tranny, but I never re-torqued them after "lowering" the tranny back to rest on the crossmember.

So I torqued those bolts with a regular socket wrench, and that improved the noise. When I got back home an hour or so ago, I grabbed the torque wrench and torqued them some more, up to about 35-40 per bolt. Then to be safe I re-torqued the main crossmember bolts and nuts on the edges to about 35-40 as well. The thumping sound has completely disappeared from what I can tell. So based on that I believe that the tranny might have been just a tad loose, and it was rocking up and down just a bit over bumps.

Did you re-torque those x-member bolts after removing whatever you were supporting the tranny with? Is this even the same issue you are having?

Hope this helps.

 

[wadea7]

Thanks for the info... I have not re-torqued the bolts since it's been installed. But, I did notice that one nut was missing (oops) after I was done and it really sounded bad until I put it back on.. But I thought they were tight enough, I guess I'll be breaking out the torque wrench tonight.. I 'll let you know what happens.. Thanks..

Wade

 

[EdwardNorth]

One last thing if you don't mind, I saw that you didn't really have an issue with the linkage, but my lever seems to be very difficult to position and finicky. I managed to get the part time lights connected (ran some wire but still need to finish the full time light) and that helps show position a bit, but it's very inconsistant. I remember with the 231 switching between 2HI and 4HI was very easy, and you could clearly feel it drop into position. With the 242 so far though, it's a very rough pull and there's no feel to it at all. The only position I can feel clearly is when I put it into Neutral or 4 LO.

Before installing the 242 it seemed like the linkage moved and dropped into position fine, but now that it's installed it's become a problem. Any ideas besides messing with the linkage? Is there a way to get rid of the slop? I used a new bushing between the small rectangular piece that connects to the t-case and the first rod, maybe that's not helping.

Thanks and good luck with the bolts.

 

[EdwardNorth]

UPDATE: Never mind, I figured it out. I was reading up on the threads that talk about difficult shifting with the 242, and I tried the rolling Neutral technique that everyone talks about. It works flawlessy! Just put it in N, take it one mode at a time, let it sit for a second, and then take it to the next mode.

Smooth and I can find the "indent" with each mode now. Still need one last fine adjustment on the linkage but all that stands in my way now is the wiring!

 

[jeepsrock]

Was wondering if anyone eventually figured this out ? The reason i ask is bc most of the articles out there focus on the older vacuum system and not the electrical one. I am gonne be putting in a 231 in my jeep xj and need to know more about this topic and its results. I would appreiate if if someone could slighlty fill me in.

thx
pete

 

[Gravely Tech]

Why the 242 over the 231? Just for the full time option? I'm building 2 XJs out of 3, one for trail and one for DD. I have one of each tcase, should I put the 242 in the DD or trail rig?

 

[Sparkman]

My vote goes for the 242 in the DD.

 

[wadea7]

Put the 242 in the daily driver..

Wade

 

[jeepsrock]

Well the reason i am asking is because my current jeep is 2wd and has none. So i have a tcase 231 and aw4 combo but am i bit confused as what i need to make the light work. I have all the harnesses but i am unsure exactly what would be neededother than that.

Pete

 

[Sparkman]

Update

Finally got my 242 installed today. I picked up the case on eBay and installed all new seals. Went in pretty easy, but we ended up unbolting the exhaust to get to one of the bolts that holds the case to the tranny. The wiring was plug and play with the 56041612AA jumper wire that I got from the dealer for $15. We adjusted the linkage per the FSM (place both the case and shift lever in 4L and then tighten) but the shifting seems a little goofy. Seems like 4FT is where neutral should be, and 4PT is where 4FT should be. I think I can get it adjusted correctly with a little tinkering. Shifts perfectly other than that. I was amazed at how good 4FT is on the snow covered roads around here, wish I had done it sooner. I expect my XJ will be spending most of it's time in 4FT from now until the snow melts.

 

[JEEPZZ]

So with the jumper wire installed, the full time dash light (as well as the others) worked properly correct?
Did you install the metal 242 shift plate under the console also?
How much did you pick up the 242 for?

 

[Sparkman]

Yes, the dash lights work correctly. I don't know for what years the jumper wire will work, but it's the easiest way on an '01.

No I haven't changed the shift gate. I have heard conflicting reports regarding the shifter gate for the 242. Some say there is only one shift gate, others say that there are two separate gates. Do you know if I need to change it? I am going to try to get it adjusted a little better tonight if time allows.

I paid $100 for a very leaky 242 with 66k miles on it. I opened it up and the internals are in excellent shape, just needed seals. They usually go for around $300 on eBay. The two local yards I called wanted $550. After all of the seals and stuff I have around $200 into it. I still need to pick up a new bezel and maybe the shift gate. Oh yes, can't forget the 242 sticker for the headliner.

 

[JEEPZZ]

Yes the shift gate is different than the 231 gate. I'm sure swapping to the proper shift gate would give your shift lever a more positive feel.
I'm going to check into that jumper harness as I'm getting ready to swap a 242 into my wife's stock 97 XJ.
Were drivelines lengths an issue? Do you have a 8.25 or D35 rear end?

 

[Sparkman]

Yes the shift gate is different than the 231 gate. I'm sure swapping to the proper shift gate would give your shift lever a more positive feel.
I'm going to check into that jumper harness as I'm getting ready to swap a 242 into my wife's stock 97 XJ.
Were drivelines lengths an issue? Do you have a 8.25 or D35 rear end?

That sucks, a 242 shift gate may be hard to find. I will probably wait until the weather warms up before I search the junkyards.

No driveline issues that I know of. Haven't driven it more than about 10 miles yet though. It was an easy install. I have the 8.25".

 

[Sparkman]

Good news: Adjusted the linkage and I'm pretty sure I have it good enough that I don't need another shift gate. Not saying one doesn't exist, I don't know that for sure, but I think it's good enough.

Bad news: Sure sounds like the front output bearing is making some noise.