burntkat
NAXJA Member #1145
- Location
- Charleston, SC
OK, wrapping up what I've seen throughout this thread:
You've done:
-upper control arm bushings. Twice (Why?)
-track bar bushings
-steering stabilizer (what brand? In fact that goes for all of these parts....)
-Driver side balljoints (Why on earth would you not do both sides?)
-Track bar (again!!?)
-Wheel bearing assembly (brand?)
-tires balanced -spin or static?
-track bar bushings and linkage (yet again- why would you do this three times?)
-larger bolt for the trackbar bracket - good move
You need to replace:
-ALL control arm bushings. Upper and lower. Go with new arms if you like.
-The passenger side balljoints as well.
-Consider doing the axle ujoints. Also the driveshaft ujoints.
-Tie rod ends- you didn't mention a thing about them- they are literally the first suspect.
-examine the steering gearbox- ensure it is solidly mounted to the uniframe and not moving (have someone wiggle the steering with the key in the run position)
-Check the trackbar bracket for looseness
-what are the alignnment specs as it sits presently? They ought to be able to provide if they aligned it.
Is the vehicle at all modified? Specifically lifted?
You are requesting a refund from the shop for labor. Why? They did what you told them to.
Shops says the leaf springs needs replaced. They are at the back of the truck. This is a front-of-truck problem.
70K on the shocks, could be time for new. What kind are they, and are they providing positive control of the suspension (no dead spots)?
You are pondering sticking brakes being the problem. Well, are your brakes sticking?
Adding new parts does not cause death wobble. You just haven't found all the problems yet.
You "Did notice the sway bar moving in the mount (hole wallered out)". I think you mean trackbar. It's really important to use the proper terms. This is a BIG part of your problem- that needs to be fixed ASAP. Weld a hardened washer over the hole.
*Do not* go buying an OTK conversion to fix this. That's not your problem. This would be an exercise in stupidity.
You've done:
-upper control arm bushings. Twice (Why?)
-track bar bushings
-steering stabilizer (what brand? In fact that goes for all of these parts....)
-Driver side balljoints (Why on earth would you not do both sides?)
-Track bar (again!!?)
-Wheel bearing assembly (brand?)
-tires balanced -spin or static?
-track bar bushings and linkage (yet again- why would you do this three times?)
-larger bolt for the trackbar bracket - good move
You need to replace:
-ALL control arm bushings. Upper and lower. Go with new arms if you like.
-The passenger side balljoints as well.
-Consider doing the axle ujoints. Also the driveshaft ujoints.
-Tie rod ends- you didn't mention a thing about them- they are literally the first suspect.
-examine the steering gearbox- ensure it is solidly mounted to the uniframe and not moving (have someone wiggle the steering with the key in the run position)
-Check the trackbar bracket for looseness
-what are the alignnment specs as it sits presently? They ought to be able to provide if they aligned it.
Is the vehicle at all modified? Specifically lifted?
You are requesting a refund from the shop for labor. Why? They did what you told them to.
Shops says the leaf springs needs replaced. They are at the back of the truck. This is a front-of-truck problem.
70K on the shocks, could be time for new. What kind are they, and are they providing positive control of the suspension (no dead spots)?
You are pondering sticking brakes being the problem. Well, are your brakes sticking?
Adding new parts does not cause death wobble. You just haven't found all the problems yet.
You "Did notice the sway bar moving in the mount (hole wallered out)". I think you mean trackbar. It's really important to use the proper terms. This is a BIG part of your problem- that needs to be fixed ASAP. Weld a hardened washer over the hole.
*Do not* go buying an OTK conversion to fix this. That's not your problem. This would be an exercise in stupidity.