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2000 Cherokee Sport Death Wobble Help

Tires rotated and still wobbles.

I did notice that the sway bar is moving in the mount (hole wallered out) while my daughter turned the steering back and forth.

Here's a silly idea. If I make a video of the joints while my daughter turns the wheel back and forth, do any of you think you might be able to diagnose it?


Do yourself a favor.
Go buy kevins offroads track bar bushing bolt upgrade.
and the steering box stabilizer.

or do an over the knuckle conversion.

Ive messed with death wobble for far to long before doing these.
fixed everything

I would also check steering box bolt torque.

Another tip.
Put tape on joints. top and bottom. line it up.
move steering.
look at what moved.
should give you a good indication of whats moving.
 
Do yourself a favor.
Go buy kevins offroads track bar bushing bolt upgrade.
and the steering box stabilizer.

Already have a steering box stabilizer installed.

I bought this one from Clayton's and the shop said it was too big to install because they'd have to drill out the sleeve in the bushing too much.

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or do an over the knuckle conversion.

I'll look this up. Not sure what it is.

Ive messed with death wobble for far to long before doing these.
fixed everything

I would also check steering box bolt torque.

Headed out to do this.

Another tip.
Put tape on joints. top and bottom. line it up.
move steering.
look at what moved.
should give you a good indication of whats moving.
 
Yes.
You must drill out to fit that bolt.
its worth it. trust me.
the drill bit is about $9 at home depot. took me about 10mins with my drill.
also.
shops don't like to tighten tie rod arms up as much as they should be.
re-check their torque. you can do this even with a uni wrench.
check they are not loose. could be.
 
Yes.
You must drill out to fit that bolt.
its worth it. trust me.
the drill bit is about $9 at home depot. took me about 10mins with my drill.
also.
shops don't like to tighten tie rod arms up as much as they should be.
re-check their torque. you can do this even with a uni wrench.
check they are not loose. could be.

Get THIS! The larger bolt they installed was to long to be tightened completely. It was loose when I went to remove it. I had to stick my saws-all in the hole to shorten the bolt so I could get a wrench on it.

Steering box and new bracket were tight.

I'll be checking the torque on all the stuff they messed with in the morning....
 
Get THIS! The larger bolt they installed was to long to be tightened completely. It was loose when I went to remove it. I had to stick my saws-all in the hole to shorten the bolt so I could get a wrench on it.

Steering box and new bracket were tight.

I'll be checking the torque on all the stuff they messed with in the morning....

Also.
Kevins offroad has the bushings and larger center pins.
plus their bushings are better than the stock ones avail
its like $80 for the kit. but I felt a huge difference.
 
Well, after looking at, pulling on, checking the torque on EVERYTHING, I decided it was time for another opinion.

I took it to a shop that seemed to want to help and the FIRST thing they did was check the alignment.... which I just had done at the other shop......

It was WAY off....... They want me to see the actual "numbers" whatever THAT means......

They drove it and the wobble is still there.

They also said everything seems tight and solid.......

I'll know more tomorrow......DANGIT...:hang:
 
You've never mention tire brand or size?
 
Well, after looking at, pulling on, checking the torque on EVERYTHING, I decided it was time for another opinion.

I took it to a shop that seemed to want to help and the FIRST thing they did was check the alignment.... which I just had done at the other shop......

It was WAY off....... They want me to see the actual "numbers" whatever THAT means......

They drove it and the wobble is still there.

They also said everything seems tight and solid.......

I'll know more tomorrow......DANGIT...:hang:

Well at least the problem was still there. It could have magically cured itself while at the shop and re-appeared once you got it home. Of course that never happens.

Curious that the alignment was way off, but didn't fix the problem. Either first shop didn't align it very well, or something is moving.
 
Well at least the problem was still there. It could have magically cured itself while at the shop and re-appeared once you got it home. Of course that never happens.

Curious that the alignment was way off, but didn't fix the problem. Either first shop didn't align it very well, or something is moving.

I agree that something is moving..... but WHAT?

The owner of the new shop looking at it said he didn't want to let us take it until the wobble was gone. Apparently, he got it to go berserk on the highway like I did..... very scary.......
 
did you do the tape method ?
its the only smart thing to do at thing point.

Shop aligned it.
You drove it.
Ruined the alignment.
Something is loose is my bet.
Or defective.
A bad Tie rod. with a bolt thats wobbly could explain the durastic turns in wobbles.

you need tape with solid color or like painters tape.
Put one on each of the joints. top and bottom
Theres only like 5...
then draw a line in sharpie.
turn the steering back and forth once.
go look at tape.
lines will show you everything.


The other thing I would mention.
How are the front control arm bushings ?
I did my lowers but the top ones made a huge difference.. car wobbled a lot.

or stop throwing money at it. and get an over the knuckle conversion.

The odd thing that happened with mine years and years ago.
idk if yours might be the same.
Off roading I cracked the track bar mount in half.
Until I unbolted it I didnt see the two pieces.
Have you removed it to check its not cracked ?

Theres also U joints.
And those joints in the top and bottom of wheels.


And dont worry about the wobbles. drive smart. Ive owned my jeep 11 years. wobbled for 5-6 and im used to it now
 
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I re-read your post.
Im 99% sure the upper control arm bolts are not tight enough.
They are pressure fittings.
Please re-check your torque.
 
Shop called and told me I have a broken leaf spring. I knew it was squatting in the rear. I’m having them changed.

Not a death wobble component thought.
 
I re-read your post.
Im 99% sure the upper control arm bolts are not tight enough.
They are pressure fittings.
Please re-check your torque.

I asked the new shop to check those and the torque.
 
Hello All,

I hope I'm posting in the correct section.

I know it's been discussed at length here but, I think I may have a weird situation and I know you guys can help.

I took my daughter's Cherokee Sport in for an oil leak (to a VERY reputable shop).

They got the leak fixed (rear main) and I also asked them to check the front end for any worn components.

He called and said the track bar bushings and upper control arm bushings needed replaced so I told him to do it.

They also added a new steering stabilizer.

I drove it home and on the highway she started shaking so bad, I had to pull over (63-64MPH) It NEVER had ANY wobble before.

So... I took it back to them to FIX and they changed both driver side ball joints, track bar and BOTH wheel bearing and hub assemblies. Car was also aligned.

Drove it on the highway and wobble is still happening.

I took it and had the tires balanced....NO GOOD Still wobbling.

I replaced the track bar bushings and linkage. I also up-sized the bolt for the track bar to axle bracket connection.

Back to the shop to have both upper control arms replaced with new OEM ones......Still Wobbles.

What are they missing?

At this point, I depending on some advice form you fellas and I'll do the work myself over Christmas Break.

I'll be requesting a refund for labor from the shop.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

TDoggs

I'm going through much the same now.

Your first issue is trying to half-arse this... if a control arm bushing is bad, replace them ALL. Likewise any other part in the front end (ie: if a TRE is bad, replace them all).

I know it sucks. I know it gets expensive. But think of it this way- you're resetting the maintenance clock. It's part of owning an older vehicle.
 
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On my 96 the pads wore a grove into the knuckle causing the pads to not release all the way. At freeway speeds it got hot enough to cause binding on one wheel and death wobble.
Easy fix weld the grooves up and grind it smooth.

Who on earth did your brakes? Pads shouldn't be anywhere near the knuckle....
 
Already have a steering box stabilizer installed.

I bought this one from Clayton's and the shop said it was too big to install because they'd have to drill out the sleeve in the bushing too much.

This is part of the problem- your shop guy is an idiot. They are not a real mechanic, but a parts-swapper. (I can't blame them, time is money.... but this didn't take long to find):

They need to get a bushing for a 2001 Dodge 2500, MasterPro Chassis Track Bar Bushing Part # K7382. It fits the trackbar and allows use of the Clayton's hardware upgrade. I just did this on my 97XJ and the wife's 94 ZJ. It is a bolt-in affair.

Also, they could have just drilled out a normal poly bushing sleeve. There is PLENTY of steel there to do so. Protip: PN 7382 and Moog Track Bar Bushing
Part #: K3176 (the OEM replacement bushing for an XJ) both use the same bushing. The sleeve is different. I literally just used the bigger sleeve in the Moog bushing on mine. I was going to use a drillpress on the Moog part but a few minutes in the computer at Oreilly showed me this trick.
 
Get THIS! The larger bolt they installed was to long to be tightened completely. It was loose when I went to remove it. I had to stick my saws-all in the hole to shorten the bolt so I could get a wrench on it.

Steering box and new bracket were tight.

I'll be checking the torque on all the stuff they messed with in the morning....

Fire that shop, PRONTO.

If they are sending suspension systems out the door with loose bolts, they're damn near criminal. At any rate, they have no business spinning wrenches.
 
I agree that something is moving..... but WHAT?

The owner of the new shop looking at it said he didn't want to let us take it until the wobble was gone. Apparently, he got it to go berserk on the highway like I did..... very scary.......

Sounds like you've found an actual *mechanic*, worthy of the name. They're getting rare!
 
I re-read your post.
Im 99% sure the upper control arm bolts are not tight enough.
They are pressure fittings.
Please re-check your torque.

This makes no sense.. how are the bolts, pressure fittings ?
 
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