xj-grin
NAXJA Member #1096
- Location
- Colorado Springs, Colorado
Alrighty then -- this time it is actually for sale. seriously.
1999 WJ Grand Cherokee Limited – loaded with power everything, heated seats, leather, power moonroof, overhead console (temp, compass, fuel efficiency, etc., etc., etc.). It’s cushy, for a lifted jeep. Factory Infinity audio system with factory amp and 6x9 “subs” in the front doors – I think the small (3.5") dash speakers could use replacing, but it sounds pretty good – 10-disc changer in the cargo area (stock), wired for an AUX input to override the CD changer so you can plug in an MP3/iPod... I'm working out some bugs there.
4.7L V8 with @ 205k miles on it. I have been watching the oil consumption, and it consumes about a quart every 2500 miles – no black smoke, no spots on the driveway, just an older motor consuming a bit of oil as far as I can tell. It has a slight tick when cold, I believe it to be an exhaust leak, typical of 4.7's. It starts on the third turn of the key (every time), and I am 99% sure this is related to a check valve failure in the fuel pump – since the fuel pump otherwise works fine, I have not elected to fix this. I think of it as just a starting quirk. It runs very well.
Drivetrain: Stock 545rfe automatic transmission, but I have had the dealer “flash” it so that it now has a 6th gear, as opposed to its stock 5-speed configuration (starting in 2001 this same transmission was a 6-speed stock, just a computer programming thing). As currently geared, it is at 1800 rpm doing 70, and I average almost 18mpg in mixed usage. I swapped a NP231 t-case into it, as the viscous piece of shit NP247 FT case that it came with was, well, I guess I just described it. The 231 is an XJ case, but with a 6-gear planetary swapped in, and an 32-spline AA SYE. New chain installed when I did the planetary, and it is tight. The t-case will not, with this tranny, shift on the fly as it does in an XJ for some odd reason – tranny has to be in neutral -- speedo signal now comes from the tcase as on an XJ, but through the computer that thinks its from the antilock brakes... speed works fine and is fairly close to accurate. Custom driveshafts front and rear (Rocky Mountain Driveshaft-built – shortened to fit locally at Drivetrain Industries in downtown CS, both just were balanced and got new u-joints in the past couple months). Front is dual-cardan, rear is single but long enough in a WJ that it doesn’t vibrate.
Axles: WJ’s come stock with a LPD30 front and an aluminum D44 rear – that sucks. I’ve swapped in JK axles from a 2008 4dr JK. Front is a HPD30 with 32-spline outers. It was virtually bolt-in, though I fabbed an elevated track-bar bracket, and re-worked the sway-bar mounts a bit – JKS quicker disconnects included. Rear is a JK D44, I believe with the 32-spline shafts unique to Rubicons though I’ve never done the spline counting. It also has the Rubicon factory electric rear locker - though my wiring skills to date have kept it from working... working on those bugs too. Both axles are geared 3.73, disc brakes all around – I fabbed a cable system for the rear e-brake to function. Antilock brakes are disconnected/bypassed.
Suspension: It has a Clayton long-arm kit on all four corners, with the rear being a triangulated 4-link configuration, front is radius arm similar to what you see on a lot of XJ’s - currently sitting on 4.5" TeraFlex coils on all 4 corners, with a 3/4" spacer in back and a 2" spacer in front (the JK coil perches on the front axle were more than an inch lower than the stock WJ, resulting in some unevenness in the lift...). Anyone who has dealt with Clayton parts, and has the hernias to prove it, knows they are constructed to take some abuse. This system is a 4.5"-8" lift system, and it is currently set pretty close to its minimum lift. Great suspension system, includes an integrated sub-frame welded to the unibody, so the whole rig is stiffened up significantly. JKS WJ track bar up front as well... SeriousOffroad custom drag-link and tie-rod with 1-ton Chevy TRE’s. Bilstien 5100 series shock's all around...
Tires/Wheels: Stock JK Rubi wheels (17x7.5, 5 on 5 lug pattern), and 285/75r17 Goodyear Duratracs -- good tread. 1.25" spidertrax spacers on the front axle improve the turning radius. Full-size spare mounted on a JK Rubicon 17" wheel, as well. I swapped the stock “white” headlights out for some “black” special edition stock models that look less grandma-like, but have the originals. Also has aftermarket taillights, but the stockers will be included as well.
Armor: SeriousOffroad SliderZ on it that Frank one-offed for me - recently touched up the paint. I also have a Kevin’s Off Road t-case skid (uninstalled) included (3/16" plate)– it will need some tweaking to work with the Clayton’s crossmember, but it can be done without too much work. I have an (uninstalled) Solid diff cover for the front D30, and the rear D44 has a Riddler cast diff cover installed. Also has d-ring shackles in the stock tow-hook locations, and a stock 2" receiver hitch.
New in the Past year or so:
*Thrush turbo muffler - dumps just in front of rear axle... throaty!
*Chro-mo ball-joints on the D30;
*Every TRE;
*Every bushing on the front axle;
*Both unitbearings;
*Front brakes (rotors too);
*Battery
*Heater Core replaced a couple years back with quality copper, not oem aluminum crap.
The Bad:
*AC leaks - only holds a charge for a week. I have failed to find the leak, but a black-light should do it..
*airbag light on (I have a new clock spring in box, needs to be installed)
*rear locker not wired right - see above, I'm not real bright...
*check valve in fuel pump is bad - see above
*moonroof motor is kaput -- entire assembly from FN Jeep is only $75, but I have not had the time nor motivation to remove the headliner to get it done. I think the moonroof is currently sealed, so no leakage, but it does need replacing.
All in all, it runs very nice, is fun and comfy to drive, has good power, and wheels well (yes, I've had it out, several times, smartasses...) Asking $7,500 at
, but will entertain reasonable offers. Starting it hear in hopes of avoiding craigslist asshattery, but will move it over there in a week or two at a higher price if none of you fellas snatch it up. PM me questions, offers, etc. :cheers:
Pics follow:
1999 WJ Grand Cherokee Limited – loaded with power everything, heated seats, leather, power moonroof, overhead console (temp, compass, fuel efficiency, etc., etc., etc.). It’s cushy, for a lifted jeep. Factory Infinity audio system with factory amp and 6x9 “subs” in the front doors – I think the small (3.5") dash speakers could use replacing, but it sounds pretty good – 10-disc changer in the cargo area (stock), wired for an AUX input to override the CD changer so you can plug in an MP3/iPod... I'm working out some bugs there.
4.7L V8 with @ 205k miles on it. I have been watching the oil consumption, and it consumes about a quart every 2500 miles – no black smoke, no spots on the driveway, just an older motor consuming a bit of oil as far as I can tell. It has a slight tick when cold, I believe it to be an exhaust leak, typical of 4.7's. It starts on the third turn of the key (every time), and I am 99% sure this is related to a check valve failure in the fuel pump – since the fuel pump otherwise works fine, I have not elected to fix this. I think of it as just a starting quirk. It runs very well.
Drivetrain: Stock 545rfe automatic transmission, but I have had the dealer “flash” it so that it now has a 6th gear, as opposed to its stock 5-speed configuration (starting in 2001 this same transmission was a 6-speed stock, just a computer programming thing). As currently geared, it is at 1800 rpm doing 70, and I average almost 18mpg in mixed usage. I swapped a NP231 t-case into it, as the viscous piece of shit NP247 FT case that it came with was, well, I guess I just described it. The 231 is an XJ case, but with a 6-gear planetary swapped in, and an 32-spline AA SYE. New chain installed when I did the planetary, and it is tight. The t-case will not, with this tranny, shift on the fly as it does in an XJ for some odd reason – tranny has to be in neutral -- speedo signal now comes from the tcase as on an XJ, but through the computer that thinks its from the antilock brakes... speed works fine and is fairly close to accurate. Custom driveshafts front and rear (Rocky Mountain Driveshaft-built – shortened to fit locally at Drivetrain Industries in downtown CS, both just were balanced and got new u-joints in the past couple months). Front is dual-cardan, rear is single but long enough in a WJ that it doesn’t vibrate.
Axles: WJ’s come stock with a LPD30 front and an aluminum D44 rear – that sucks. I’ve swapped in JK axles from a 2008 4dr JK. Front is a HPD30 with 32-spline outers. It was virtually bolt-in, though I fabbed an elevated track-bar bracket, and re-worked the sway-bar mounts a bit – JKS quicker disconnects included. Rear is a JK D44, I believe with the 32-spline shafts unique to Rubicons though I’ve never done the spline counting. It also has the Rubicon factory electric rear locker - though my wiring skills to date have kept it from working... working on those bugs too. Both axles are geared 3.73, disc brakes all around – I fabbed a cable system for the rear e-brake to function. Antilock brakes are disconnected/bypassed.
Suspension: It has a Clayton long-arm kit on all four corners, with the rear being a triangulated 4-link configuration, front is radius arm similar to what you see on a lot of XJ’s - currently sitting on 4.5" TeraFlex coils on all 4 corners, with a 3/4" spacer in back and a 2" spacer in front (the JK coil perches on the front axle were more than an inch lower than the stock WJ, resulting in some unevenness in the lift...). Anyone who has dealt with Clayton parts, and has the hernias to prove it, knows they are constructed to take some abuse. This system is a 4.5"-8" lift system, and it is currently set pretty close to its minimum lift. Great suspension system, includes an integrated sub-frame welded to the unibody, so the whole rig is stiffened up significantly. JKS WJ track bar up front as well... SeriousOffroad custom drag-link and tie-rod with 1-ton Chevy TRE’s. Bilstien 5100 series shock's all around...
Tires/Wheels: Stock JK Rubi wheels (17x7.5, 5 on 5 lug pattern), and 285/75r17 Goodyear Duratracs -- good tread. 1.25" spidertrax spacers on the front axle improve the turning radius. Full-size spare mounted on a JK Rubicon 17" wheel, as well. I swapped the stock “white” headlights out for some “black” special edition stock models that look less grandma-like, but have the originals. Also has aftermarket taillights, but the stockers will be included as well.
Armor: SeriousOffroad SliderZ on it that Frank one-offed for me - recently touched up the paint. I also have a Kevin’s Off Road t-case skid (uninstalled) included (3/16" plate)– it will need some tweaking to work with the Clayton’s crossmember, but it can be done without too much work. I have an (uninstalled) Solid diff cover for the front D30, and the rear D44 has a Riddler cast diff cover installed. Also has d-ring shackles in the stock tow-hook locations, and a stock 2" receiver hitch.
New in the Past year or so:
*Thrush turbo muffler - dumps just in front of rear axle... throaty!
*Chro-mo ball-joints on the D30;
*Every TRE;
*Every bushing on the front axle;
*Both unitbearings;
*Front brakes (rotors too);
*Battery
*Heater Core replaced a couple years back with quality copper, not oem aluminum crap.
The Bad:
*AC leaks - only holds a charge for a week. I have failed to find the leak, but a black-light should do it..
*airbag light on (I have a new clock spring in box, needs to be installed)
*rear locker not wired right - see above, I'm not real bright...
*check valve in fuel pump is bad - see above
*moonroof motor is kaput -- entire assembly from FN Jeep is only $75, but I have not had the time nor motivation to remove the headliner to get it done. I think the moonroof is currently sealed, so no leakage, but it does need replacing.
All in all, it runs very nice, is fun and comfy to drive, has good power, and wheels well (yes, I've had it out, several times, smartasses...) Asking $7,500 at
, but will entertain reasonable offers. Starting it hear in hopes of avoiding craigslist asshattery, but will move it over there in a week or two at a higher price if none of you fellas snatch it up. PM me questions, offers, etc. :cheers: Pics follow:
