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1996 4.0 No Crank, Starter Works When Jumped

Is the NSS still connected? Do your backup lights work?

Pins B & C on the NSS are the ones that complete the ground when in P/N (This is the Pin 10 on the relay to the NSS circuit). Definitely give all of the connectors a good cleaning especially the contacts inside.

You can test the NSS directly using an ohm meter or 12v test light. With the meter or test light connected to pins B & C on the NSS, you should get continuity (low ohms or lit bulb).

The NSS is still connected as far as I know, at least it appears so at the connector in the engine compartment (passenger side rear, near head. There are 3 or 4 connectors there in a "bundle" and all appear to be oil soaked. There is also a wire in that "bundle" that grounds to the passenger side/rear of the engine block that has a cheap non sealed butt connector crimping two halves together. It's hard to see but the wire with crimped butt connector appears to be a black with orange or white stripe. I do have electrical contact cleaner and will try and get the connectors cleaned up and replace the butt connector with a solder sleeve with adhesive sealent early this upcoming week. The engine is not original according to the PO (may be a newer model/year, definitely a 4.0 though. The vehicle itself is a 96) and I have no idea what all has been mucked with. There are a few random loose connectors floating around in the engine compartment not connected to anything.

I have seen a few bypass options in searching, including what I did (run jumper from pin 10 with relay installed, to ground), jumping inside the NSS connector in the engine compartment with a paper clip and installing a switched ground. Is there any concern in leaving the jumper wire semi permanently from pin 10 to ground, other than being able to start in gear? I would think being just an alternate ground it should be fine, but I am far from an electrical expert.
 
Damnit man..well, I took a closer look at the "bundle" of four connectors close to where that suspect butt crimp connection on the black with orange stripe ground wire is and man the insulation is totally gone on the wires going into two of those connectors (both appear to be heading down towards the transmission)! I also have issues with the transmission shifting automatically and I have a feeling both the no crank (NSS) and no automatic shift (transmission have to do with what I found. I'm wondering if these connectors/wire runs are replaceable as a unit? Or if a pre terminated, pigtail is availible? I don't have the tooling to de pin and re pin these connectors. As a temporary measure I'm going to either cover each wire with electrical tape or heatshrink until I can figure out how to replace the wires/connectors.
 
One of the connectors with missing wire insulation does in fact go to the NSS, the other goes to the drivers side (I'm guessing to control the solenoids).
 
There is a 6 pin connector that should be NSS? The other connector is 4 pin and is round inside (where the pins/sockets install), any idea what this connector is? I searched AW4 connector and didn't see the same one described above. The XJ is the bastard 96 model that could be a mix of 95 (and older) and 97+ parts.

@Saudade
 
The NSS should be an 8 pin connector but only have 6 wires on it. Should be a black connector. The Grey 8 pin should be the transmission connector. I think the smaller grey is for the 4WD light. With the locking tab upward, the pinouts are

.....| |
H G F E
A B C D

A: Fused Ignition Switch Output
B: Park/Neutral Switch Sense
C: Ground
D: Not connected
E: Backup Light
F: Not connected
G: Drive Gear Sense
H: 1-2 gear sense

Again, B & C are the ones to jump to bypass the NSS on the main harness side. You can check for continuity on the NSS when in P or N.
 
The NSS should be an 8 pin connector but only have 6 wires on it. Should be a black connector. The Grey 8 pin should be the transmission connector. I think the smaller grey is for the 4WD light. With the locking tab upward, the pinouts are

.....| |
H G F E
A B C D

A: Fused Ignition Switch Output
B: Park/Neutral Switch Sense
C: Ground
D: Not connected
E: Backup Light
F: Not connected
G: Drive Gear Sense
H: 1-2 gear sense

Again, B & C are the ones to jump to bypass the NSS on the main harness side. You can check for continuity on the NSS when in P or N.

I wish I could post pics | : I appreciate your help brother, but neither one of those descriptions match what I'm seeing under the hood. There is an actual 6 pin (not 8 with 2 unused) and a 4 pin (internally round in shape). The XJ is the bastard 96 model and supposedly the engine has been replaced, God only knows what bastardized mix of parts I actually have. Could be anything or any combination from 91-95, 96 or 97-01? I'm planning to temp fix the connector wiring next week, at that time I will see if there is even a problem with the actual NSS or if it is just a wiring issue.
 
It sounds to me like dead solenoid. The starter relay behind the dash sends power to the solenoid. A single click usually indicates relay is working. A thunk indicates the solenoid is closing but the bridging contacts may be dead. You can verify by putting a voltmeter on the middle solenoid wire (from the relay) and ground to the body while somebody turns the key. If you have good voltage at that wire your NSS isn't the problem (low voltage maybe the NSS is the problem).

The ignition switch supplies battery voltage to the coil side of the starter motor relay on circuit A41 when the key is moved to the START position and the PARK/NEUTRAL position switch is closed. Ground for the coil side of the starter motor relay is supplied by the PARK/NEUTRAL position switch. Circuit T41 connects the coil side of the relay to the PARK/NEUTRAL position switch. When the starter motor relay energizes and the contacts close, circuit T40 supplies battery voltage to the starter motor solenoid. Circuit A0 from the battery supplies voltage to the starter motor when the solenoid energizes.
 
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