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0331 head change results

Just got done doing a head swap this weekend, 2000 cherokee with all the typical signs of a cracked head. Went to Daveys Jeeps in Salem, Ohio and picked up a '06 head with 10k on it for $150. Bolted right up no problems, and is running great! About ten hours worth of work to get it all done and running again. Cost me around $340 for the head, all gaskets, head bolts, oil & filter, thermostat, and a couple little things.
 
Just got done doing a head swap this weekend, 2000 cherokee with all the typical signs of a cracked head. Went to Daveys Jeeps in Salem, Ohio and picked up a '06 head with 10k on it for $150. Bolted right up no problems, and is running great! About ten hours worth of work to get it all done and running again. Cost me around $340 for the head, all gaskets, head bolts, oil & filter, thermostat, and a couple little things.


good to know, thanks.

I am thinking about keeping my '05 head and just doing a port n polish on it when I build up a stroker next year.

let us know how things work in the long term too, thanks.
 
So far all is well! Got about 200 miles on the new head, 150 was driving from Ohio up to school in Michigan. Good oil pressure, temp stays consistant, sounds good. Everything looked identical with the two heads sitting side X side, and i believe they're both 0331 head numbers but i forgot to check. I will keep updated as i remember!
Winterbeater- the head came off a 2006 wrangler rubicon with 10,xxx miles on it.
 
I have a 2000 XJ with almost 200K on it. My misfire is a bad valve and I am going to just do a head. Whixh is better the older head swap or 2003 - 2006 head? can I still use a rugged ridge header on the 2003-2006?
 
Just got done doing a head swap this weekend, 2000 cherokee with all the typical signs of a cracked head. Went to Daveys Jeeps in Salem, Ohio and picked up a '06 head with 10k on it for $150. Bolted right up no problems, and is running great! About ten hours worth of work to get it all done and running again. Cost me around $340 for the head, all gaskets, head bolts, oil & filter, thermostat, and a couple little things.
Do you know if this Davey's Jeep has any more heads like that available. I live in Mi also so it wouldn't be that far? Or maybe they could ship one.
 
By making sure your fabricated bracketry has a solid mechanical connection to ground (solid mechanical connection generally equals a solid electrical connection.)

If that makes you uncomfortable, run a secondary ground lead from under one of the mounting screw heads to the engine block or cylinder head - it will double up on the grounding from the mounting screws. Use something like a 10 or 8AWG wire for that one, for added assurance.

Apologies for reviving a thread from the dead, but stumbled across this searching about a head swap.

I had the 0331 crack on my 2000 and had a 7120 head installed, with some coil pack mounts fabricated up. The problem is the guy used a rubber screw insert to mount the coil pack to a valve cover screw, so no metal to metal ground.

Do I need to ground the coil pack to the engine block/head, or will the chassis suffice? The Jeep has been running rough since the swap and I have had it hooked up to a comprehensive scan tool, and all systems/sensors/etc are operating correctly. No codes or check engine light. I also get about 6-8 miles per gallon on 31's. I purchased a 3/8 x 3" bolt and nut and 4 gauge ground wire. Just need to know if it grounds to engine block/head or chassis or if it matters. If its the bock/head, which place is best? Thanks.
 
can someone please post pics of there bracket for the coil rail. I just replaced the motor on my wife's 00 with another 00 motor from a salvage yard but if I haev any problem with this head I'm going to swap it out with the older one that doesn't crack between 3 and 4.
 
Apologies for reviving a thread from the dead, but stumbled across this searching about a head swap.

I had the 0331 crack on my 2000 and had a 7120 head installed, with some coil pack mounts fabricated up. The problem is the guy used a rubber screw insert to mount the coil pack to a valve cover screw, so no metal to metal ground.

Do I need to ground the coil pack to the engine block/head, or will the chassis suffice? The Jeep has been running rough since the swap and I have had it hooked up to a comprehensive scan tool, and all systems/sensors/etc are operating correctly. No codes or check engine light. I also get about 6-8 miles per gallon on 31's. I purchased a 3/8 x 3" bolt and nut and 4 gauge ground wire. Just need to know if it grounds to engine block/head or chassis or if it matters. If its the bock/head, which place is best? Thanks.

a short ground wire from the mounting bolt to the head or engine block will do fine-- provided you have a good connection from the head to the fire wall as well.
 
Has anyone that has changed their head experienced low oil pressure at hot idle prior to the swap? What have you seen since the swap? Oil pressure seems normal on start up. Once I reach operating temps, It will drop to almost 0 on the oil pressure guage. 2-2.5k rpm will bring in just below 2 on the guage. Anyone with similar problem have anything to report???
 
Basically the people with effed 0331s have coolant that contaminates the oil and therefore effs the rod and main bearings too. Too late and you should replace them and the 0331.
 
Has anyone that has changed their head experienced low oil pressure at hot idle prior to the swap? What have you seen since the swap? Oil pressure seems normal on start up. Once I reach operating temps, It will drop to almost 0 on the oil pressure guage. 2-2.5k rpm will bring in just below 2 on the guage. Anyone with similar problem have anything to report???


Changing the head has no effect on oil pressure. Verify the pressure with a mechanical oil pressure gauge and if it's still low check your oil pump pick-up screen. Mine was really clogged with sludge from the coolant mixing with oil. If it is not clogged, sorry to say you need a rebuild or a new (to you) engine.

Mine still has ok oil pressure, about 10# at idle when hot (which I consider running at highway speeds for 20-30 minutes) and 25-27# when cruising at 2k RPMs. I know this is under Jeep specs, but it doesn't clatter and I've read 10#s of oil pressure per 1000 RPMs is acceptable, so I'm not going to worry about it. When, or if, it blows I'll replace it.
 
If you replace a cracked 0331 head with another 0331 head, be darn sure that it is 2003 or newer, where the issue was resolved. Sometime very late in 2002, DC started sourcing their 0331 heads from TUPY (Brazilian Foundry).

http://www.tupy.com.br/ingles/home/index.php

There is an easy way to know if you are looking at a TUPY head. Between cylinders 3-4, you will find the word TUPY actually stamped into the head. Look for it and don't install an 0331 head that doesn't have it.

Clearwater Cylinder Head and Alabama Cylinder Head have great redesigned heads that work great and have helped many unfortunate 00-01 0331 head owners.
 
Seems like the new heads from
Clearwater Cylinder Head and Alabama Cylinder Head are the way to go... Does anyone have one installed and running... Any reviews in 2011 ???
 
I installed a Alabama Cylinder Head casting on my Jeep a few months ago. I've got about 4-5k miles on it since.

Seems to be fine. The Jeep drives the same as it did before.
 
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