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well i'm glad i didn't waste too much time before finding out where the a holes are at, keep it up, it works good for you to. thank you though, it didn't take long to realize i don't need to waste my time on this forum. you guys really carry out the meaning of the lifestyle and spirit of what...

i really didn't think i'd wake up this morning and you would've been able to troll anymore response, but i guess i was wrong. not sure why i care, but i guess i have to qualify myself to the idiots around here. here's where i work, what does your box look like? here's one of my...

this was at pick n pull on 41, just south of the border.

first no one is "chiding" anyone second this item is not listed as for sale, so this should not be a classified thread. so you are inappropriate by saying i'm trying to sell it. third that comment was not on topic, no one was posting a question on how the skid works, or the topic had...

i'll be sure to post my opinion in one of your threads for something you may be selling but i'm totally not interested in to, thanks.:moon::spin1:

i posted this on the comanche club and then i copied instead of retyping :shhh: the d44 was $78 :yelclap:

i agree, start with the front d shaft, but just remove it and test drive, no need to spend money on it yet. if the problem goes away without the front shaft in then you know you're spending money in the right spot.

i have never seen a driveshaft leak, are you sure its gear oil from the trans, or could it be throwing out excessive grease from the u joint?

its been a while but most of them are held on by a bolt right through the top of it, just unbolt. i think it has the axle vent on top of it, thats why you don't see it, remove the vent hose, and then you'll see that piece gets unscrewed that the hose was on.

if it has an under hood light, and the hood is open it will keep the draw, you have to have the switch in the closed position to test for a draw. the hard part about testing a draw is not getting false positives. they key in the ignition, door open, hood open you gotta make sure nothing is...

its amazing that even trans shops don't know what they're doing. just because a solenoid resistance is in spec when you test it doesn't mean its ok. there's more than just ohms, and you aren't testing the solenoid during operation ( you can't).

welcome, you're gonna enjoy the xj. 5 spd is an option, but the aw4 auto trans in these is a great trans.

holly rust free yj, looks really clean, i hate the midwest.

boneyards right now are full of fresh c4c cars, most jeeps have not been sitting long. or buy new zj links if you want.

i'd complain to the home owners associatioin :laugh3:

what was your caster measurement? techs skip over it, and even if its not adjustable, you need to know what it is, a common dw problem is a lack of caster, as you lift the xj you can lose caster.

v8 zj's.

these prices came down since i looked a little over a year ago.

i scored at the pick n pull today, they have a half price sale this weekend, everything half off. i got there first thing, after browsing a couple rows i see an mj, so i check it out. 91 2 wd 330k :o dana 44 rear hanging out of it only held on by the d shaft bolts :banana: . i cut the brake...

how do you remove the pins? the metal sleeve should be free moving, and its not. i gave you some ideas to get them moving, once the sleeve moves it can slide all the way out, and the rubber boot stays in the caliper.