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:) I never wrote you should use the complete axle assembly and the hubs :) and i never saw a spindle get damaged without major damage to the surrounding parts so this should not be a nobrainer. I was just wondering why you did it with removable spindles.

Why did you use this expensive way for axle tubes and spindles? Why not get a 14B and get the axle tubes including spindles from it and mate it to the HP60 center? So you would not have to worry about lubricating the hubs/bearings. Just curious

I can second that, definitely do not put a bolt in while welding the bung. You may have some luck with copper anti-seize but i see no advantage in it. Always welded bungs without bolts except one time and never had any problem (except that one time).

D-ring mounts should be a plate that mounts directly to the frame. They should be the attachment points for the whole bumper. Means you attach 2 big plates of steel to the frame and weld the bumper around those 2 plates.

Second that, same for me

I have the redneck ram and box in my rig. Really happy with the result, just will add a steering fluid cooler this month. Ripping of tabs from the box or the box off the frame isn't an issue any more. The ram will absorb all of the shock loads to the steering. I did a 3/4 roll a few weeks ago...

That's exactly the impressions i had after converting from leafs to coilovers. :wave:

The problem is that the e-350 MC from the 4-disc-models wont be a bolt-on like the E-350 (10-2008) MC everybody is referring to. The rear disc in the E350 came up in 1999.

Yes, as long as you don't weld to the fuel line (or try to) :laugh3:

The E-350 MC is for rear drums and has not equal sized reservoirs. You need them to be the same size if you run discs f/r.

:worship: :worship: That looks simply great. :wave: I'm redesigning my rear links this winter and i like the way you did it. Any specs or drawings about your rear crossmember? I would like to get some inspiration on how you did it, first time i see tubing on a crossmember, i like that idea...

Do not bend the lower links. :lecture: I'm running this setup for over a year now and i know it's downsides. For the joints i used the RE superflex joints on both ends because they are easily maintainable and easy to repair. The lower link on the passenger side just broke in 2 halves a few...

What's the difference between building radius arms or tri-link or triangulated links? As you can see it's not that easy to build arms and those arms are for a custom suspension.

Who? :wierd: You don't talk about the manufacturer of those CAs? :banghead:

I want to build it myself, this is why i originally posted it in the fabrication forum. For now i put a piece of 1.5" DOM .250 wall in the broken arm as a internal sleeve and welded it in. That should do it for a while. I never replace a part that gave up with the same one. If it's broken it's...

I used superflex joints on both ends because they have no play and are easily serviceable. A ball joint or a rubber/poly bushing generates too much play. I don't want my axle to rotate much under load changes.

I'm thinking about a upper wishbone for this winter and a full hydro steering. It's essential for me to build something that can take the abuse. At least the unbalanced half radius arm doesn't bind :wave1: It worked really well for me this way the last 18 months. I just found out that i need...

Ok Hinkley, i know you can guessit :wave: @old_man i already replaced the stock joints with RE superflex joints on both ends so there is enough flex :) and the jam nuts would give before the rotational stress would be large enough to damage the arm and i run just a single upper arm. I already...

This is what happened this weekend, i think the pics tell it all No comment about the manufacturer, it was not the first time that his parts failed. :banghead: :banghead: I want to replace those things with something really bulletproof and need some suggestions about wall...

:laugh3: It's because they are not triangulated enough :laugh3: :wave: