Weld-on threaded bungs

[Lonestar]

Are they a good idea or not? Specifically, I'm looking into getting a 1.25" -12 TPI UNF threaded bung for my custom radius arms I'm making. I'm going to weld a threaded stud to the RE flex joint at crossmember, and thread it into the arm so I have some adjustability. Just wondering what everyone thinks.

 

[BrettM]

a very common and very good idea. proceed.

 

[TrailHunter]

I like them better then getting tubes drilled and tapped. It's more of a convenience thing for me.

 

[jeep_87_cherokee]

does it help to have a bolt or a stud threaded into the bung before you weld it , so it doesnt disort the threads or something

 

[BrettM]

does it help to have a bolt or a stud threaded into the bung before you weld it , so it doesnt disort the threads or something

a bolt with some anti-sieze would be a good idea, though I haven't found it necessary.

 

[gearwhine]

I have had problems putting in a bolt while welding them on. This only happens when you try to turn out the bolt before it's completely cooled. It slowly tightens up until it's seized. When it finally cools down it's still seized. I've wasted a few bungs because of this. I have since always welded with nothing in it and havent had any problems.

I'm sure I can wait longer to remove the bolt, but I've had much better luck with just not putting anything in it. Even when I see that the bung threads are red hot, I've never had any distortion I could see or feel.

 

[XJoachim]

I can second that, definitely do not put a bolt in while welding the bung. You may have some luck with copper anti-seize but i see no advantage in it. Always welded bungs without bolts except one time and never had any problem (except that one time).

 

[Mr.OverKill]

being stuborn i have tried the bolt in the bung thing several times some with anti seaz some without and it isnt worth the head ache of trying to get it out!! i say leave it out and clean the threads with a tap before you re-install the bolt or spray anti spatter on the threads of the bung to help keep them cleaner.

my .02 through first hand experiance.

 

[TrailHunter]

I always leave them open and have never had a problem threading rod-ends or bolts into them after they've cooled.

 

[jdogg4]

I have a set of RE fixed super flex arms I'm doing this to. I just tore down the first one this weekend and took the wire wheel to it to clean it all up first. had to clean up the superflex joint from dust and dirt stuff. PSCustomes sales them. Have to go pick up my set here when I get back.
I'm at 4.5 RE super flex setup right now and just want that extra inch or so to get 35s with out jacking up the pinion angle on the front end.

 

[WobblesXJ]

When I'd weld them I'd put a bolt in to hold it then screw it in and out as it cooled. Worked for me.

 

[CrazyXJ]

I'm building an MJ with a 1/4 elliptical triangulated rear, and a long arm front. using a 44 and 9" for running gear. I'm building everything. here is my question what all sizes of rod ends, tubing, and fixed bushing ends should I use. also what size mounting hardware. 2nd question where can I buy all the ends and bushings I am building this on a limited budget so I am looking for function + strength without huge cost.

 

[MGrobe]

I spoke with the owner of a local welding shop recently about this. I had him TIG my bungs for me and he had me bring a couple of rod ends so they would be in the bungs during the welding. He related an experience on a job he had once for a customer. They had a few hundred fittings to weld and about a quarter of the way through it finally decided to check how the bungs where holding up. With nothing in them at least half wouldn't thread properly. So they started welding with a bolt or some other device in the bungs and bingo the rest of the project went smoothly. He may have mentioned a technique as to how deep to thread in the rod, but I can't quite remember what he said.