Recent content by heeperman

Well can you tell me what model you have? and if its internal or external soileoid pack. Engage the freespool, run power directly to the motor, see is it operates, if not, then you have motor issues, let me know is your motor turns and the model and i will do my best to get you sorted out

give it a good hose down with a garden hose without a nozzle on it, if you blast the dirt hard or with a pressure washer the grit gets down into the fibres and will wear the strap quicker (just think of sand in your shorts...........) also never leave it in the sun to dry, hang it up in a shaded...

definately get rid of the MTR's and the front locker.............neither are fun in the snow. Get a good set of narrow AT's or real snow tires and 2 pairs of RUD Tire Chains, a proper snow shovel (digging with a spade in the snow just sucks), a peak stove and sleeping kit for when you'll need...

Your stock alternator will handle allmost all your needs for winching, as will your battery assuming its in good shape. Max amp draw for a M8000 at 8000lbs is 435 amps, even at max load you can halve the current draw with a snatch block, bringing you down near 200 amps at max load. Work your...

don't worry about the hood getting hot, they all do it, so long as you are not overheating it should never be an issue............just remeber not to put your beer down on it! If there is no transfer case lever, and you do not have a front differential or transfer case..........then its 2wd, enjoy

Warn has outsourced lots of production offshore (aka read China), and in the past few years there has been a noticeable decline in qulaity assurance and consistancy. Try to find a Crosby retailer near you.

yeah way too expensive to haul a bit of fuel, get a 5 gal can for $10 and make your own carrier

Its called a Fuel Pack, primarily marked for ATV use, and the cost about $70 USD, they have them at Cabela's

its what sends the signal to your gauge, your thermostat is mechanical and it controls itself, if your t-stat wasn't working you would either be over cooling or overheating, as it usually fails by remaining open or in the closed position. With your engine cold, remove your rad cap, start it...

well when I joined in 91, I was making $14,400 a year, as a Cpl was making a bit over $19,000, with the budget the Forces had they did alot, know things are starting to get alot better.................feeling like re-enlisting.

i would be looking at your temperature sending unit, begin with just cleaning the contact point, and see if that helps, if your gauge spikes you should definately be able to see signs of overheating (ie coolant overflow bottle boiling etc...)

Try going to your local bicycle shop, lots of bicycle tubes use Shrader valves, should cot you about twenty five cents

Well I am going to try it and let everyone know how it turns out......................no just got to wait for the boss to leave so I can disappear for the day, and spent some quality time under my ride for the afternoon!

you can get by with 3.55's just fine, I run the same and still get 18mpg, trying to get 14 bills out of your rump isn't worth it, your rpms will drop about 300-400, but seeing you are not in the mountains you shouldn't have any issues

ok i have searched and read all the post i can find on the subject, I need to replace the drivers side axle seal, is it possible to just tap a new one in from inside the carrier? was just thinking about placeing the seal in position, using an appropriate socket and a small hammer. Any ideas on...