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CSF 3 Row Radiator the best way to go?

Try adding ceramic insulation at the manifold to exhaust pipe flange and make sure there is no leak there at the donut, It is about 3/4" from the block-oil pan joint on the engine.


That's an urban legend. Me and several other people have had cracked manifolds and exhaust joints falling apart without having overheating issues.
 
That's an urban legend. Me and several other people have had cracked manifolds and exhaust joints falling apart without having overheating issues.

I worked on my overheating problem for 3 years, tried everything on the 87 Wagoneer, drove the crowd here on naxja nuts with a huge three year long thread and forensic scientific study, Ecomike style on the story. The problem was finally solved by replacing the exhaust manifold to exhaust pipe flange donut that had been reused by the prior owner when it was already toast. Unless you are calling me an urban legend LOL.:sunshine:
 
I worked on my overheating problem for 3 years, tried everything on the 87 Wagoneer, drove the crowd here on naxja nuts with a huge three year long thread and forensic scientific study, Ecomike style on the story. The problem was finally solved by replacing the exhaust manifold to exhaust pipe flange donut that had been reused by the prior owner when it was already toast. Unless you are calling me an urban legend LOL.:sunshine:

I think that in the process of that 3 years of maintenance, you probably did a lot of things to fix your problem. ;)

I think that the OP is fishing for some magical solution. I fought overheating for 2 years and finally went to a real radiator to solve the problem after changing every component and a head gasket twice. That shitty CSF radiator is sitting in the corner of the garage.
 
I think that in the process of that 3 years of maintenance, you probably did a lot of things to fix your problem. ;)

I think that the OP is fishing for some magical solution. I fought overheating for 2 years and finally went to a real radiator to solve the problem after changing every component and a head gasket twice. That shitty CSF radiator is sitting in the corner of the garage.

Nope, the only one that fixed the problem was the new donut. Second biggest help was discovering the secret to filling the Renix closed system radiator to the top.

Coolant bottle fixes helped keep the pressure in longer, top line radiators dropped the peak temp from about 250 F to about 235 F, ZJ clutch droped the peak temp about 5 F more, water pumps no help, and so on. The source of the excess heat was the real problem, and one $2 donut fixed the source on mine.

My CSF radiator works great, but it did not overcome a defective exhaust leak donut. It was and is a great radiator I have 2 of them, the 3 row versions. Since about 2009?
 
When you found the leak around the donut: was there obvious air leaking out around the joint? Or you just changed it and the heating issues went away?
 
When you found the leak around the donut: was there obvious air leaking out around the joint? Or you just changed it and the heating issues went away?

The leak was not detected by 2 muffler shops on two separate days about a year apart. Replacing the donut solved the problem. No doubt about that. The donut had obvious deep groves on the sealing surface where it had to be leaking. But the leak may have been too small at idle for the shop leak testing to find it. The leak must have been large enough at freeway speeds, high engine loads to super heat the oil and that caused a heat spike at the stop light right after pulling off the freeway 45 minute drive. The other heat spike took 30 minutes at idle in the driveway, or high engine rpms for 5 minutes and a return to idle to spike. Mine can now sit at idle for 60 minutes in 105 F heat, 80% humidity with the AC on max and hold at or under 220F at the T-Stat outlet, and about 190 F at the radiator return at idle for an hour. It normally runs at about 200 F at the T-Stat engine outlet now in the summer and 185 F in the winter (I have a 180 F T-Stat). This is all on the 87 Wagoneer. Both the 87 and 89 have the CSF 3 row (actually has 3 rows, not a BS 2 row that claims to be 3 rows) radiators bought in about 2008(87) and 2011(89).
 
Thanks! It's such a simple cheap fix that I can't help but give it a try. I'll let you know how it works.

Make sure the old stud bolt threads are not shot too!!! And use brass or copper nuts!!!!
 
Don't mind me, just looking for some info on Aluminum radiators...

anyone got an update on their experiences long term?
 
Don't mind me, just looking for some info on Aluminum radiators...

anyone got an update on their experiences long term?

My FFD is now 5 years old and still problem free. I was using Amsoil coolant the entire time.
 
Aftermarket aluminum ones with plastic tanks are a POS. Brass is a far better material.
 
Aftermarket aluminum ones with plastic tanks are a POS. Brass is a far better material.

Concur, this is why I am looking for info on which brand to go with.

Of course the Be-Cool would be the right answer, if I wanted to spend all the money. But I'd rather keep things on the inexpensive side. I don't see the wisdom of spending $500 when I $160 will do the same job.

Is anyone running one of these radiators (other than the Be-Cool) in a V8 swapped XJ?
 
I would go with either a factory OEM radiator, or a brass, all brass CSF radiator. I wont touch anything else if I plan on keeping it.
 
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Thanks for the info...

but if I'm spending $500, I'll just buy a be-cool. :)

You're welcome. You may want to see what the cost of the radiator is, not the entire cooling system.
 
The Champion all aluminium units are looking pretty good lately.

And they are all USA made, with great customer service. I had an extended talk with them earlier this year when 4643's radiator busted 5 days before KOH.


For the price vs what you get, i would not hesitate to try them.
 
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