CSF 3 Row Radiator the best way to go?

[Hoooper]

Has CSF increased the size of the tubes in their 3 row or are they still those jokester 3/8" tubes?

 

[Rod Knee]

Has CSF increased the size of the tubes in their 3 row or are they still those jokester 3/8" tubes?

That is one heck of a good question that I hope someone can answer....

 

[dieselenthusiast]

My FFD aluminum radiator has been problem free for 3 years now.

 

[Ben824]

I finally gave up on the all Aluminum radiators. I went trough 8 leaky radiators from champion and other brands all coming from China the last one didn't even last 60 days before it started leaky at an alarming rate and from both sides of the radiator. I called it quits and went back with what I know works, CSF. My last CSF lasted 7 years before it just barely started to leak and temps slightly rose at idle in traffic mid-summer South Georgia. All the aluminum ones looked identical so they all come out of the same place in China and then someone slaps their name on it and sells them. I cannot speak for FFD since they seem to be very different from the rest from my understanding so it probably has everything to do with the others being cheap Chinese garbage.

My e-fan setup has changed a bit since the last time I posted. I was in a small accident and an indirect casualty of the accident was the lead OEM e-fan. I had to trim the fan to get it to fit which resulted cutting off the original mounting points. It was held in with zip ties which broke and left it being bounced around between the radiator and the accessory drives ultimately destroying the fan. I now run a smaller Ford Taurus fan that I trimmed and fitted in the factory mechanical fan shroud. There were two versions of the smaller fan, one with a single speed motor and an inline resistor that kicked the speed down for the lower speed to have two speeds, the other being having the same AC Delco true two speed fan as the larger popular Ford Taurus fan. I grabbed the single speed motor fan not knowing the difference but I did grab the inline resistor too. I get two speed operation but it doesn't seem to be adequate enough as outdoor temps are rising going into spring. Also I think I got a little too carried away with my trimming on the outer edge of the fan blades because it shakes the Jeep when it kicks on. I am going to go back to Pull-A-Part and get the fan with the better motor and try again.

Strange thing though, temps seem to rise the most when on the highway. You would think with all that air coming across the radiator at those speeds the temps would stay under control. That really had me scratching my head.

 

[Exxon Valdez Jeep]

bump

CSF still the way to go? I had one in my old jeep with a stroker until I parted it out. I have a relatively stock MJ now but the rad split in a serious way. Looking at replacements...

 

[dieselenthusiast]

bump

CSF still the way to go? I had one in my old jeep with a stroker until I parted it out. I have a relatively stock MJ now but the rad split in a serious way. Looking at replacements...

FFD radiators have proven to be high quality.

 

[blistovmhz]

I'm in the market for a new rad as well. I like the CSF and have heard good things about it but I don't like how it's aluminum/copper instead of all aluminum. This is what I'm planning on getting:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/91-9...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Reputable company, quality construction, all aluminum, 3 rows, 200 bucks.

Here's the rad on the company web site:

http://www.championradiators.com/product/CC1193

Something to watch out for with a lot of LONG rads (like on the XJ), especially aftermarket, is whether or not they can flex at all. Lots of horror stories about brand new Champion rads cracking at the ends the first time you flex out your rig. I don't know if this is a unibody problem for some guys, or if the rads just have no give to them, but it's been an issue.

Also, I still don't understand how so many guys have overheating problems. The only time I've ever had a 4.0L overheat (with a stock rad) is because the rad was plugged, head cracked, water pump died, or thermostat wasn't working. The stock rad really should be sufficient for almost all occasions. I wheeled the shit outta my 4.0L with a stock rad (before moving to a V8) and never once over-heated until i started mysteriously losing coolant (probably a crack in the #6 cylinder.

 

[bwinter1946]

bump

CSF still the way to go? I had one in my old jeep with a stroker until I parted it out. I have a relatively stock MJ now but the rad split in a serious way. Looking at replacements...

My answer: Not sure. My CSF three row just split after 40,000 miles. Drivers side tank split in the middle of the tank. It did not spilt on a seam. I needed a new radiator quickly so I ordered another CSF for $200 from Amazon. Time will tell if this does better. Good luck.

 

[DrvOvrIt]

Had a nice aluminum radiator for a few years until it clogged up. Just went to autozone and picked up the $100 cheap replacement. That thing has held up fine on multiple trips through Rubicon, Death Valley, Mohave trail. I see no reason to pay anymore.

 

[Exxon Valdez Jeep]

Yeah I had a $20 coupon at Advance Auto so I just picked one up there for $79.

 

[Ecomike]

Strange thing though, temps seem to rise the most when on the highway. You would think with all that air coming across the radiator at those speeds the temps would stay under control. That really had me scratching my head.

Check the exhaust manifold for a small leak at high engine rpms at the head or at the donut down pipe connection, as it can leak and blow directly on oil pan (about 1/2" away) and superheat the oil and thus the coolant at freeway speeds. The overheating peaks when you pull off the freeway and stop at a light.

Been there and done that with 2 vehicles now.

 

[Ecomike]

I won't run anything but all copper/brass 3 row CFS radiators now. Been using them for about 5 years now with no regrets.

 

[DieselSJ]

This is my new favorite -

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-382012/overview/year/1999/make/jeep/model/cherokee

2 row copper/brass. It has 2 big rows vs 3 small rows. This is what we use in the Jeepspeed and it cools way better than the 3 row.

 

[Ben824]

I guess I will update my instance with CSF now. Back in May my 4.0 with 265,000 miles finally gave up and threw in the towel. Can't blame it, I drove it HARD! So I have a rebuilt 92 4.0 in it. Swapped all my 4.0s accessories and everything over. I decided to switch back to a mechanical fan because I would overheat from time to time before my old engine blew. I didn't want this thing to overheat during break in so it received a new water pump, new fan clutch, new 195 thermostat, and the fairly new CSF radiator. And of course with everything in check, the thing still runs over 210 in traffic, probably around 220. I have made posts about it and everyone says those temps are nothing to worry about. My issue is that I had a CSF before I made the mistake of going to all aluminum radiators and with my old CSF and running this EXACT same setup up, my temps were always 210 or less. I NEVER ran over 210 until the last year I had the old CSF and that was dead middle of the summer in South Georgia in 90+ degree weather sitting dead stopped in a drive through line. I just can't seem to catch a break with this running hot thing! I really want to go back to an electric fan setup because it gave my 97 with 3.55 gears and 33s a nice little extra amount of pep running around and it allowed me to get 14 mpg city. Going back to a mechanical fan puts me back at 12.5-13 mpg city.

 

[bigalpha]

Just a question: Have you verified your coolant temperature using a method other than your dash gauge?

 

[Ben824]

Just a question: Have you verified your coolant temperature using a method other than your dash gauge?

I have not as of yet, so I am going to go to Harbor Freight and pick up an infrared temp gun but I have been working non-stop since I am in sales at a Jeep dealer. Being the end of the year we are here every single day until new years day and if we don't hit a certain number of new sales by that day then we work that day as well.

But when I had this same setup a few years ago I had a Mopar temp sensor. The sensor that is in it now is one from Advance Auto so there is the possibility that it could be giving a faulty reading. But when its very cold out, its below 210 at what would look like 195-200 and it has a 195 thermostat in it so I never really felt alarmed that the sensor was giving a faulty reading. But I will confirm this as soon as I can get a temp gun.

 

[RedHeep]

Pull that radiator out and go buy a plastic tank aluminum core stock radiator for $100 at the parts store.

CSF was the go to radiator 8 years ago but several of us have found that they aren't what they used to be. Guys who go back to stock or put in a mopar hd radiator almost always fix the overheating problem.

 

[XJFLYER]

I run my 00' in vegas. After upgrading to a full Banks exhaust from headers on back I immediately started having heat issues in the summer. With great power comes great heat I guess...

So when in and started upgrading the full cooling system. Added a CSF 3 core, high flow water pump, high flow thermostat housing, a 195 degree thermostat, a zj fan clutch, and a tranny cooler. Under all normal conditions including slow traffic I never get above 200 anymore. When summer condition hit though and I'm slow out on the trails I still had it around 220. This year I'm adding louvers. That should do the trick. I'll let you know how it works out.

 

[clean4drxj]

FYI if you're running an aw4 and do not have an aux cooler put one in, it will help drop the temps a bit.

 

[Ecomike]

I run my 00' in vegas. After upgrading to a full Banks exhaust from headers on back I immediately started having heat issues in the summer. With great power comes great heat I guess...

So when in and started upgrading the full cooling system. Added a CSF 3 core, high flow water pump, high flow thermostat housing, a 195 degree thermostat, a zj fan clutch, and a tranny cooler. Under all normal conditions including slow traffic I never get above 200 anymore. When summer condition hit though and I'm slow out on the trails I still had it around 220. This year I'm adding louvers. That should do the trick. I'll let you know how it works out.

Try adding ceramic insulation at the manifold to exhaust pipe flange and make sure there is no leak there at the donut, It is about 3/4" from the block-oil pan joint on the engine.