If it were up to me it would be done already. In fact the test rig is already basically done other than some finish welding. Problem is to make it a production kit I have to design everything, make rough samples myself to convince myself I have it right, then send the drawings to the laser cutter, wait a week-10 days for samples, verify that they are correct, then wait another week-10 days for production parts. Since this project has a lot of parts to prototype I ended up doing 2 different batches of parts and I'm just waiting on the samples of the second batch before I can give the go ahead on production parts. The holidays have slowed the process a bit as well.
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WJ swap formulas?
- Thread starter cal
- Start date
If it were up to me it would be done already. In fact the test rig is already basically done other than some finish welding. Problem is to make it a production kit I have to design everything, make rough samples myself to convince myself I have it right, then send the drawings to the laser cutter, wait a week-10 days for samples, verify that they are correct, then wait another week-10 days for production parts. Since this project has a lot of parts to prototype I ended up doing 2 different batches of parts and I'm just waiting on the samples of the second batch before I can give the go ahead on production parts. The holidays have slowed the process a bit as well.
TRCM
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Newport News,VA
Excuses...Excuses.......Don't you know us jeep guys are impatient, and want everything NOW !!
:gonnablow :doh:
On a more serious note........make sure it's right before you start selling like you are, less chance of a dissatisfied customer that way.
Heck, I've been waiting a couple of years now, another month or so won't hurt.
I'm still trying to decide on a clayton rear conversion or the TNT kit.......like some things about the TNT kit more than the clayton, but don't like the price vs what you get. Clayton is much better in that area.
Also less chance of spending many thousands on a production run of parts that aren't right. Dissatisfied customers is one problem, the bank account is another :shiver: Neither is good.
TRCM
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Newport News,VA
True...very very true.
- Location
- Lakeside, CA
Mine is mostly clayton.
JKS .25 spacers, 99+ Unit Bearings.
Clayton axle side track bar mount
Clayton standard height frameside track bar bracket (stock pitman)
Clayton track bar "build a bar" with skinny I think 1.5" wide JJ at axle and 2" wide at frame joints. 9/16" bolts.
WJ knuckles, reman calipers, WJ rotors redrilled to 5x4.5.
Drag link is .120 chomo with weld in 7/8 ends from ruffstuff, high misalignment tre at drag link and offset TRE at knuckle.
Tie rod is 1.5 DOM .250 wall with weld in 7/8 thread adapters and offset TRE's.
Knuckles have the flipserts.
Using a West Texas Offroad ram mounted to track bar mount with clamp on adapter.
I am thinking of switching the knuckles over to flipped WJ TRE's and buying the 1.25" aluminum drag link/TRE that clayton offers.
JKS .25 spacers, 99+ Unit Bearings.
Clayton axle side track bar mount
Clayton standard height frameside track bar bracket (stock pitman)
Clayton track bar "build a bar" with skinny I think 1.5" wide JJ at axle and 2" wide at frame joints. 9/16" bolts.
WJ knuckles, reman calipers, WJ rotors redrilled to 5x4.5.
Drag link is .120 chomo with weld in 7/8 ends from ruffstuff, high misalignment tre at drag link and offset TRE at knuckle.
Tie rod is 1.5 DOM .250 wall with weld in 7/8 thread adapters and offset TRE's.
Knuckles have the flipserts.
Using a West Texas Offroad ram mounted to track bar mount with clamp on adapter.
I am thinking of switching the knuckles over to flipped WJ TRE's and buying the 1.25" aluminum drag link/TRE that clayton offers.
You realize you know a guy that builds aluminum links right? ;-)
- Location
- WA state
If you do this make me a good deal on your existing tie rod setup.
- Location
- Lakeside, CA
paddlernate
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Portland, OR
Cost depends on what you consider necessary to do the swap. New track bar and brackets on both ends? New ball joints? 1 ton steering?
I think this swap cost me about $800 including the above items and all the other typical stuff like spacers, inserts, unit bearings, brake pads, etc.
I think this swap cost me about $800 including the above items and all the other typical stuff like spacers, inserts, unit bearings, brake pads, etc.
Well you do need at least lower ball joints, since the taper is different on the knuckles, and I just can't see someone installing used ones. To keep things apples to apples I'm talking about the full deal. New trackbar and brackets and full high steer with all the brakes and such to make it work. To me doing the swap without doing it all the way is a waste. The whole benefit is having great steering geometry, more ground clearance, AND big brakes.
- Location
- WA state
Just out of curiosity, will your "complete kit" include WJ knuckles with pre-welded spacers? I believe that would make for a more complete kit, for those that want to run 5x4.5 UB's. I understand that the axle side TB mount will still need to be welded by the customer or their shop of choice regardless.
- Location
- Wasatch Range
Truth!
TRCM
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Newport News,VA
In all these lists, everyone just keeps saying WJ knuckles. Well, does it matter what year and what engine size ??
Buddy @ work is about to junk a 99 grand cherokee laredo 4wd with the 4.0 engine & the upcountry package on it (engine is blown). Can I use the knuckles & stuff off of it to do this on my 96 sport ??
Buddy @ work is about to junk a 99 grand cherokee laredo 4wd with the 4.0 engine & the upcountry package on it (engine is blown). Can I use the knuckles & stuff off of it to do this on my 96 sport ??
iluv83vettes
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Houston
The knuckles will work, but you will want to source the calipers from a later model. I don't remember the year crossover, but the early ones had Teeves (sp?) calipers and the later ones had the Akebono calipers (the ones you want). I actually got mine from a 2WD. There was a guy on craigslist selling the whole thing.
TRCM
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Newport News,VA
calipers or knuckles from a 2wd ??
cuz another guy at work said his neighbor is junking a 2wd, but not sure of the engine/year...just that it is 2wd
cuz another guy at work said his neighbor is junking a 2wd, but not sure of the engine/year...just that it is 2wd
- Location
- Lakeside, CA
Calipers and knuckles are the same on the 2wd. Just remember there are early Teaves calipers which were on the 99's and later Akebonos which were an update.
- Location
- In a strange land
Also note that you can sometimes get lucky and find Akebono calipers on the earlier years. Whether replaced under a TSB or by someone simply deciding to make the upgrade, they are out there. That is how I found mine.
There will be a fair amount of welding involved with this kit. Track bar mount, sway bar mounts, and really the frame side track bar mount should get welded too, though that's not mandatory. We will be supplying knuckles and spacers with the kit, but as of right now I'm not sure if they will be welded or not due to liability concerns.
I did hear back from the laser cutters yesterday and I should have my final set of prototype parts by the end of the week, so once I get those test fit I can give the go ahead for production and start taking orders. Should have the kits ready to ship in about 2 weeks if everything goes right.
yossarian19
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Grass Valley, CA
Really don't understand not offering it in a "brakes only" kit.
If you aren't running much lift, you really don't want or need to go OTA track bar and it drives up the cost unnecessarily to do so.
Just throw a ZJ pitman arm in the box and leave the steering stuff out..?
If you aren't running much lift, you really don't want or need to go OTA track bar and it drives up the cost unnecessarily to do so.
Just throw a ZJ pitman arm in the box and leave the steering stuff out..?
