• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

98xj 5.3 swap (the poverty method).

IIRC, the truck body water pump neck and alternator idler pulley would be sitting right in front of the intake (the problem I remember running into when researching this originally).
I can certainly build an alternator/ps pump bracket that moves that problem over to the right, but the water pump neck I think is the real issue.

I know most guys end up swapping all the ls6 accessories over to their lm7 if they're running the 6 intake. That's where things get expensive.
I sorta suspect that if I had the ls6 intake in front of me, I could PROBABLY make it work, but hate to spend another $250 to find out I need to spend another $1000 on accessories, when I could just build a mean-ass scoop.

I used an LS1 intake and 28# injectors, then I bought 8 connectors with wires that were correctly colored and spliced them into the truck harness. It worked very well.


What'd you do for accessories?
 
IIRC, the truck body water pump neck and alternator idler pulley would be sitting right in front of the intake (the problem I remember running into when researching this originally).
I can certainly build an alternator/ps pump bracket that moves that problem over to the right, but the water pump neck I think is the real issue.

I know most guys end up swapping all the ls6 accessories over to their lm7 if they're running the 6 intake. That's where things get expensive.
I sorta suspect that if I had the ls6 intake in front of me, I could PROBABLY make it work, but hate to spend another $250 to find out I need to spend another $1000 on accessories, when I could just build a mean-ass scoop.




What'd you do for accessories?

Just chop a hole in the hood! The title of this thread is "The poverty method" lol!
 
Just chop a hole in the hood! The title of this thread is "The poverty method" lol!

Already done! Just trying to figure out how to get the back of the hood to bend convex instead of concave. I think a relief cut on the back should do it. Going to use holepunch sheet for the front, and sheet for the sides. Should look okay.

Shifter detents all setup proper finally, and torqued the collector flanges down (hopefully properly) this time.

T-case shifter linkage almost worked. I just shortened a stock arm, which works perfectly for 2wd, 4h and neutral, but once it goes into 4l, it won't come back out. Shifter arm ends up almost directly above the t-case lever so there's just not enough angle. I'm not at all sure what I'm going to do about this other than do a direct lever through the floor (will be a long throw, but should work fine.

Just waiting on parts again now. Intake/filter, muffler, and a bunch of little stuff should be in by friday. Leaves me all week to work the hood scoop, bracket for the ECU/TCU.
 
So here's the hood.
IMG_20150408_110703.jpg

IMG_20150408_110711.jpg



This is the stuff I want to use for the front of the scoop.
IMG_20150408_110723.jpg


The sides would just be plain sheet I think.

The plan would be to have the sides angled down at around 30 degrees to give it more stealth look, and less poverty. The front would be the same, so the front cutout would be trapazoidal (wider on the bottom by about 1.5" per side).

Here's the thing. I've never welded sheet, and the screen is stainless. I'm trying to think of ways to get this done.
My first thought was to get all the pieces cut with an extra 2" height, and folded top/bottom so i'm not welding edge to edge (gives me a flat seam to work with). Side folds would be laid out on the top of the hood, while the front folds would be underneath. Does this make sense? Is there an easier/better way to put this together?


Underhood:
IMG_20150408_110740.jpg



Shifter complete:
IMG_20150408_110821.jpg

IMG_20150408_110833.jpg
 
love the hood.

Don't forget to paint it all black with three red circles in it so you can pretend it's a tunnel.
 
Thinking of just building a scoop from scratch instead of messing with the fold left from the cutout.

Something like this. Who think's this'll work?
hood%2Bscoop.jpg

hood%2Bscoop%2B3d.jpg


The smaller bit of course would be perforated sheet.
 
Yea, found. Do they both run to the same connector (that blue/black on one top of the intake)? If not, it's entirely possible I wired one to ground, which would explain several other little issues.


they should both run to the same connector IIRC.

PS. if youre going to continue wheeling the rig stick with the truck manifold. better for torque
 
they should both run to the same connector IIRC.

PS. if youre going to continue wheeling the rig stick with the truck manifold. better for torque

I've heard mixed reviews on the intake manifold issue. Most guys agree that the ls6 manifold produces less low end torque, but that in a sub 5000lbs XJ, they didn't notice the difference whatsoever, except the higher HP in the top end.

As mine isn't even able to burn out my 35's yet, I'm not really concerned about which intake I'm using :p. I'll revisit that issue some day. For now, if my hood scoop ends up working out, I'm pretty happy with the truck intake.

Just sent the drawing to a local metal shop who has a bender. Waiting to see if he can make those intersecting bends at the back of the scoop.
 
That's going to look hillbilly + angry. Hellbilly?
Psychobilly?
Cow Punk?
Pick your genre, get this thing sorted out & it's going to rock (pun intended)
 
:)

So exhaust is holding me up again. Maximum ****tards at Lordco (really our only auto parts store in western canada), don't believe me that GM ever used a 3" exhaust. They argued about it and insisted I was wrong. I invited them to come take a look at the 97 1500 I drove there (stock downpipe with the 3" donut flange I need).
I don't know why I ever bother trying to give money to Canadian businesses.

So I've gotta put in another order from the US (thanks guys! you're much better at car stuff than canadians!). Should I be spending any time trying to track down a donut flange, or will a flex pipe do just as well? I've never heard anyone discuss any pro's/con's for either.
 
Exhaust mostly done. Ran out of mig wire while assembling the tailpipe, but otherwise complete. Know what sucks? Being the only guy you know with a welder, and having redneck friends and acquaintances (ie: forever out of MIG wire).

26db7daa01771b919de1af66b62fe5b2.jpg


I'll redo the downpipes later. This was just a temporary fix to get things rolling.
a2ce296beece6ec4c29713d1c592d214.jpg


Pretty well tucked.
567c2bfa2b260ca23119f8481b738a98.jpg

e2eef000a1254a22b17b3f86b843d20c.jpg


Sorta wish I'd gone with a slightly bigger muffler. Its still pretty loud.
b0c0456feabb8c4f3889f71f3e7e6a3d.jpg



Intake tube and filter installed. I bought a cheap kit from upgr8, as it gave me all the angles I needed, but their filter could never be used off road. I'd barely trust it to keep rocks out. Grabbed a spectre while I was picking up mig wire.
acbf9d5c0149620556bdbcc53dbd301e.jpg
677747c2b3c4c549153d0dbf0901ff3e.jpg


This is the kit:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M14WY3O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
517xYPGifrL.jpg

The filter is absolutely useless. It's pretty much a prefilter. As I said, I'd trust it to keep out rocks larger than about an inch.


Engine bay is still a mess. Still have to do the following:
* Find proper coolant hoses and stick a new HVAC system in (right now, my coolant goes to the A/C core because my blend door has a big hole in it). When I was still up north, this was a problem when it was -45C.
* Clean up wiring - rework harness. Still have to remove tonnes of stuff from the LS harness. Just wanted it running before taking out all the unknown plugs.
Steve did the lions share of the wiring, but was pressed for time all week and wants to redo everything. The Jeep chassis wiring is retarded so we'll probably start on that side first so we're not trying to adapt the engine harness to the stock disaster. The PDC will get removed and replaced entirely, so all the wiring will land on the firewall, which opens up that space for my on board air stuff.
* Finish hood. Still waiting on word back from the fab shop about whether or not their bender can handle my intersecting bends. I'm open to suggestions on the scoop, both temporary and permanent, so I can at least take it for a test drive without getting pulled over.
* T-case linkage. As mentioned in an earlier post, a direct linkage works flawlessly for shifting from 2wd all the way to neutral and back. It also shifts into 4L perfectly, but won't shift back because the shifter ends up right on top of the t-case lever. I think I might be able to fix this just by extending both levers about 3/4". As it stands though, this will be last on the list as I don't have a front drive shaft yet.
* Front drive shaft. Yea, I could take it to a shop to get it shortened, but where's the fun in that? Plus, I'm still pretty determined to keep this all under $4000, and thus far, I'm pretty sure I'm still under that number (I'll have to tally it all up when I'm done, but I should be at around $3500ish now).
I used to work for a welding shop that specialized in high pressure oilfield pipeline modules. What we did was build 50-100' modules that just bolt together (way more efficient than working in the field as we don't have to worry about all the site hazards, and we have all the materials we need on hand in our shop). The big thing here, is that our joins had to be ****ing perfect. They were pressure tested up to 20,000 psi, then x-rayed, and then checked with a laser to make sure they're within' 0.001" over a 100' span. I figure if I could make that work (given the right tools), I should be able to get a drive shaft level at 3'. Of course, I don't have a level surface to start with, nor a pipe stand, or even a way to make perfectly straight cuts. *shrugs*. It's a Jeep and never rode smooth anyway right?
* Tailpipe. Already cut and measured (in that order). Should just need to be tacked up and need to find a good flexible mount. Definitely have this done this afternoon.
 
Last edited:
Those vehicles and their style were fitting for the movie. I have never seen a scoop on an XJ that looked good. In fact, I dislike cowl hoods as well. In my opinion, it pretty much destroys the look of the XJ.

I've always liked the look of the stock XJ over almost any other vehicle, but they're just not "mine". With the addition of the scoop, the only stock and unmodified parts of my XJ will be the doors, roof, hatch, rear seat, and steering wheel.
Ultimately, while I really do like the look of the XJ, I've got something different in mind that I'd really like to build, it's just a matter of making it street legal. Pretty much a 4 seater rock buggy with modular paneling. About the same interior space of an XJ, just better laid out, and designed around 40" shoes. This'll be a project for when I move back out of the city though.

Hey, where's all YOUR videos anyhow? I can really only find 4 or 5 videos of v8 XJ's showing off the power, and they're all really poorly shot videos.
Also, what'd you do for your t-case linkage? The distance from my shifter to the case is just too short to do anything with because of the AA trans/case adapter. I'm almost considering cable shifting it.
 
Those vehicles and their style were fitting for the movie. I have never seen a scoop on an XJ that looked good. In fact, I dislike cowl hoods as well. In my opinion, it pretty much destroys the look of the XJ.

I like cowls if they go with the factory body lines. wouldn't be hard to do on an xj and it would be a subtle look
 
Back
Top