Talyn
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Radford, Communistwealth of Virginia
Locking up your brakes doesn't mean crap. In fact, your front brakes should lock before your rears do. If your rears lock first your brake system isn't working correctly.
Can you explain better how to remove the end spring of the Ebrake cables, i can't figure out how to get them removed from the front adjuster bracket still so i'm stuck on this part and have no EbrakeI'm sure I am only going to say what one hundred other guys will say but, I did the same swap onto my '89. You don't NEED the P-valve. I have been running mine for a year with 34s and the brakes work fine. Scout the Craigslits and and other similar forums. You will find the parts cheap. basic hand tools and a jack or two will score you some serious stopping power. I just took the coils springs off the end off my E brake cables as illustrated in Eric Zappe's book and used the exact same tiny u bolts to secure them. worked great!! Your install looks great. clean, simple, functional. What els can a Jeep guy/gal ask for? Nice work.:firedevil
Locking up your brakes doesn't mean crap. In fact, your front brakes should lock before your rears do. If your rears lock first your brake system isn't working correctly.
Fact is when you're on the brakes and your weight shifts forward, you should be able to lock the rears on gravel relatively easy. I couldn't get the rears to lock even on gravel before I played with the valve.
Can you explain better how to remove the end spring of the Ebrake cables, i can't figure out how to get them removed from the front adjuster bracket still so i'm stuck on this part and have no Ebrake
Doug, did you happen to write down the part number for the longer wheel studs? The studs on my donor were rusted in.
Thanks!
But I did get my parts from a ZJ that just had a brake job, brand new pads and the rotors were still shiny.
I may have a spare set of the backing plates and calipers for cheap, if anyone wants them shoot me a PM