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Another Disc brake install

my experience is that the rotors tend to be wasted, they are a non vented solid type so they aren't that thick also, you wouldn't have any idea if they were turned already, and you might pay for them then take them to get machined and realize that you have a too thin piece of junk you just laid out $40 for and the new ones are $25 each at any parts store..... After a few days everything seems pretty good on my setup, waiting on some parts for my lift but I will take a look at them again at that point...
 
Yeah, but I check runout and thickness against a fresh one, and its only $20 to have them done. But to each their own. As far as the other stuff, I know that vehicle has only been there a couple weeks, and will be gone in a couple more.
 
Well I went to Pick N Pull today and found a ZJ to grab the backing plates from and then I realized that I had to pull the axel shafts and didn't have a small enough 12 point. :(
I am going to head back their tomorrow and try a different yard.
 
you need a 1/2" 12 point socket to get that retaining pin out, I'd highly suggest having a hammer and long screwdriver also to move things around as they are usually rusted up in a JY, it took me 2 hours last time all told to do the removal..
 
multmigs said:
you need a 1/2" 12 point socket to get that retaining pin out, I'd highly suggest having a hammer and long screwdriver also to move things around as they are usually rusted up in a JY, it took me 2 hours last time all told to do the removal..
Click to expand...


You need a 1/4" 12 point to remove the bolt that secures the retaining pin. I had to go get one because all I had in 1/4" was 6 point when I went to the yard.

"My" ZJ at the yard was fresh, no rust at all and practically fell apart on it's own...
 
Just spend the day doing the swap. Swapped the spring in the prop valve (to a ZJ one) along with the little rod inside, did not swap the endcap on the prop valve though I've now read that I should, but the rod didn't seem to be a different diameter. Seems like I need to actually bleed the prop valve too. Do those two things sound right to anyone?

Also trying to figure out how to mount the brake lines, @ OP, did you figure it out or take those pics?
 
Just spend the day doing the swap. Swapped the spring in the prop valve (to a ZJ one) along with the little rod inside, did not swap the endcap on the prop valve though I've now read that I should, but the rod didn't seem to be a different diameter. Seems like I need to actually bleed the prop valve too. Do those two things sound right to anyone?

Also trying to figure out how to mount the brake lines, @ OP, did you figure it out or take those pics?
 
I've been busy guys, sorry. I got one pic here that shows how I flipped and rotated the soft lines. You can see how the soft line mount plate lines up under the spring mount. It does that on both sides. All I need to do to finish that off is weld that small tab there on the spring mounts so I can solidly mount the soft lines. I'm going to use some thin plate and just tac a nut on the back of the tabs before I weld them on.

Ultimately, I'd like to cut the hard lines shorter. I need to get a new flaring tool I guess. Must have loaned it out at some point because I can't find the darn thing. In the mean time I put an official OKIE loop in the hard lines to take up that space...

DSCN3652.jpg
 
K, thanks! In that period of time though I finished up mine, ran the lines up and over. Made a spanner plate across the u bolts and put a bolt in there through the hole in the factory soft line bracket. Bent a new driver side line (I broke it) and modified my newish (June) passenger side line by cutting and re-flaring. That way if i blow a soft line I can just go get a replacement from the parts store and swap it out. Sorry for the hi-jack.

Yours looks clean.
 
I've got loops in my brake lines too... if you want to reflare the line, make sure you use a double flaring tool rather than single flare. Side note, I am envious of your entirely rust-free, shiny OEM brake lines. Both of mine were so badly rusted that they burst - one while I was pulling out of a friend's driveway, the other due to sudden shock when I cut the still-torqued leaf bolt 6" down from it.

Looking at where you have that loop though, is that right under your bumpstop? Might be an issue.
 
I have been searching for this information and am so happy I've finally found it! Thank you!




multmigs said:
Well here is what I could dig up from NAPAONLINE.com I think I'm going to call and order the Explorer cables from my local store, remove the XJ ones and see whats up...


2000 XJ Parking Brake Cable - Left Rear


u_clear.gif

Click on image to see enlarged view

Attributes:
Features & Benefits:Mounting Brackets Included Where Required
Features & Benefits:Specially Coated Wires & Inner Lubricating Sleeves Prevent Corrosion & Extend Cable Life.
Product Features:Computer Designed To Match Original Equipment Fit
Form & Function
Length:36 1/4"
Housing Length:27 1/4"

1997 FOrd Explorer 4dr Parking Brake Cable - Left Rear


u_clear.gif

Click on image to see enlarged view

Item#: UP 95427

Attributes:
Features & Benefits:Mounting Brackets Included Where Required
Features & Benefits:Specially Coated Wires & Inner Lubricating Sleeves Prevent Corrosion & Extend Cable Life.
Product Features:Computer Designed To Match Original Equipment Fit
Form & Function
Length:42 1/8"
Housing Length:31 3/16"


2000 XJ Parking Brake Cable - Right Rear


u_clear.gif

Click on image to see enlarged view

Attributes:
Features & Benefits:Mounting Brackets Included Where Required
Features & Benefits:Specially Coated Wires & Inner Lubricating Sleeves Prevent Corrosion & Extend Cable Life.
Product Features:Computer Designed To Match Original Equipment Fit
Form & Function
Length:72 1/2"
Housing Length:64 3/8"

1997 FOrd Explorer 4DR Parking Brake Cable - Right Rear


u_clear.gif

Click on image to see enlarged view

Attributes:
Features & Benefits:Mounting Brackets Included Where Required
Features & Benefits:Specially Coated Wires & Inner Lubricating Sleeves Prevent Corrosion & Extend Cable Life.
Product Features:Computer Designed To Match Original Equipment Fit
Form & Function
Length:78 1/8"
Housing Length:69 5/8"
Click to expand...
 
kastein said:
Side note, I am envious of your entirely rust-free, shiny OEM brake lines...

Looking at where you have that loop though, is that right under your bumpstop? Might be an issue.
Click to expand...

Ah yes, it was nice crawling under this thing for the first time. It was so clean I swear it had never left the pavement, and as a Central CA Jeep all it's life it has no clue what rust is:sunshine:

Your right about the Loops I bent into the lines, they are very close to where the bumpstops meet the axle. When I got to that point and my flaring tool was MIA I kinda just said screw it and didn't really think about where I put that loop. :doh:

They are clear, but not by much!
 
multmigs said:
Well here is what I could dig up from NAPAONLINE.com I think I'm going to call and order the Explorer cables from my local store, remove the XJ ones and see whats up...


2000 XJ Parking Brake Cable - Left Rear


u_clear.gif

Click on image to see enlarged view

Attributes:
Features & Benefits:Mounting Brackets Included Where Required
Features & Benefits:Specially Coated Wires & Inner Lubricating Sleeves Prevent Corrosion & Extend Cable Life.
Product Features:Computer Designed To Match Original Equipment Fit
Form & Function
Length:36 1/4"
Housing Length:27 1/4"

1997 FOrd Explorer 4dr Parking Brake Cable - Left Rear


u_clear.gif

Click on image to see enlarged view

Item#: UP 95427

Attributes:
Features & Benefits:Mounting Brackets Included Where Required
Features & Benefits:Specially Coated Wires & Inner Lubricating Sleeves Prevent Corrosion & Extend Cable Life.
Product Features:Computer Designed To Match Original Equipment Fit
Form & Function
Length:42 1/8"
Housing Length:31 3/16"


2000 XJ Parking Brake Cable - Right Rear


u_clear.gif

Click on image to see enlarged view

Attributes:
Features & Benefits:Mounting Brackets Included Where Required
Features & Benefits:Specially Coated Wires & Inner Lubricating Sleeves Prevent Corrosion & Extend Cable Life.
Product Features:Computer Designed To Match Original Equipment Fit
Form & Function
Length:72 1/2"
Housing Length:64 3/8"

1997 FOrd Explorer 4DR Parking Brake Cable - Right Rear


u_clear.gif

Click on image to see enlarged view

Attributes:
Features & Benefits:Mounting Brackets Included Where Required
Features & Benefits:Specially Coated Wires & Inner Lubricating Sleeves Prevent Corrosion & Extend Cable Life.
Product Features:Computer Designed To Match Original Equipment Fit
Form & Function
Length:78 1/8"
Housing Length:69 5/8"
Click to expand...

the part number is shown above for the left Explorer brake. do you have the part number for the right one?
 
altierior said:
the part number is shown above for the left Explorer brake. do you have the part number for the right one?
Click to expand...

nevermind, got it. i'm hoping to finally get around to doing this project on tuesday.
 
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