buy either the gallon jug (and spray bottle) or a couple cans of PB Blaster and soak all bolts, nuts, clips, bar pins, and any other fastener that is in use on either axle. do not use it on items that require grease AND will be re-used. blaster de-wets bearings and similar parts as well as many petroleum compounds. it can neutralize the grease in items. i lost two socket wrenches because i did not wipe excess pb off the fastener before putting the wrench on it. blaster got into the bearings and wreaked havoc on it. you can spray it onto the nuts of TREs, but be sure that the spray does not get into the moving components of the end and that excess is removed. (another interesting fact- i learned that pb blaster can break the bond of asphalt while i was wrenching on a asphalt paved covered parking space).
be prepared to go to your local nut and bolt store. the most common bolts to break are the rear upper shock bolts so dont force them. the will most likely stick and not want to turn. if the bolts "stick" or will give, bind, and squeak then STOP!! this is a sure sign that the bolt is about to break if you keep forcing it. it is caused by debris (rust, dirt, gunk, road grime etc) clogging the threads of the bolt like a wedge. the binding is the clogged threads, the give is the debris breaking free and the squeak is from the friction. the best course of action, may sound crazy to some people, but re-tighten the bolt a little. this allows some of the debris on the threads that was loosened to fall free of the threads. then try to loosen it some more. once you get a good amount of resistance, re tighten. repeat as needed. it takes forever and a half to remove the bolt, but far less time than having to drill out the broken bolt, tap and get a new bolt.
you may have to rotate the front axle to get the upper control arm bolts in after the lower control arms are attached. some have had luck with a jack or a ratchet strap (i broke the strap). but i have found a friend with a pipe wrench on the axle tube to be a great help. the upper control arm bolts (axle side) may require a hammer and punch to get out.
if your reusing your old e brake cables then you will have to partially disassemble the drum brakes to remove and reattach the cables. a digital camera can help with getting the reassembly correct as will working on one side at a time and using the other side as a reference.
dont be intimidated about swapping (or even just pulling) your axles. when your done you will say 'damn, that was easier than i thought.'