linking the rear end

[tealcherokee]

Hey all, im posting this here because i want some people that have experience with doing this to answer....

come monday, im going to start linking the rear end of my jeep. Andhi made me jelous with his coil overs, so im going to do a similar set up, excpet using coils and shocks because thats what i can afford right now.

I was all set to do a 4 link with triangulated uppers and straight lowers. Lowers using the stock leaf spring mounts (maybe reinforced) and the uppers mounting at the top of the diff, extending at somewhere between a 35 and 45* angle to a custom weld in crossmember. If i were going to do this, would factory rubber bushings cause the rear end (dana 44 btw) to walk side to side (is this called rear steer, or is that when the one side of the axle pulls forward and the other goes back during articulation).

My buddy is trying to convince me to do a 5 link, just like the front of the jeep

any ideas?

[Capt. Nemo]

I'm sure you're doing this already, but...

Research

Research

Research

and when you're done, do a little more research. There's a whole lot more to it than just throwing links back there. Statements like this: "and the uppers... extending at somewhere between a 35 and 45* angle" are concerning considering how much is involved. You did ask for advice from people who've done it, and since I haven't, maybe I shouldn't post - however, I'm offering this suggestion as a person who has thought about and probably will do it in the future.

Good Luck.
Eric

[Wil Badger]

first Capt. hits it right on the head.there is just to much on the subject here in .

second your leaf spring mount isn't far enough forward for the correct length lower links.

i will let somebody else add their two cents on the subject and leave it at that.

oh and i do have a 4 link rear

[tealcherokee]

Wil Badger, i know you have a beautiful 4 link. I supose i should have mentioned that this is my street/rally jeep, its also going to be dropped 2-3" in the rear

ive done alot of reaseach, ive actually built a bunch of front 3 links and a rear 4 link (long arms)

now with the knowledge of the dropped jeep (3" of travel total is what its looking like) any advise?

[BrettM]

obviously with a lowered Jeep you're not real concerned with ground clearance. with that in mind I would mount the lowers under the frame rails so that there is some vertical seperation of the links on the frame side, moving your instant center forward. It may be a bit difficult with the lowers, but definitley try to build some adjustability into the axle and frame mounts of the uppers.

I would definitely not use rubber for your application. Maybe poly, but most likely all heims or flexjoints. rubber will allow the axle to move sideways, how much depends on design and how much rubber, and will allow for some axle wrap. flex steer, or rear steer, is only for articulation and only a factor for long travel suspensions. don't worry about it.

[A Satria]

Originally Posted by tealcherokee

Wil Badger, i know you have a beautiful 4 link. I supose i should have mentioned that this is my street/rally jeep, its also going to be dropped 2-3" in the rear

ive done alot of reaseach, ive actually built a bunch of front 3 links and a rear 4 link (long arms)

now with the knowledge of the dropped jeep (3" of travel total is what its looking like) any advise?

1. Your jeep is already dropped about 2-3",
2. That makes the lower arm already straight / pararel to the ground surface.
3. PLUS, you only plan to have compression of ONLY 2" and droop of 3".
4. Existing Leaf Spring Mounting should be fine.
5. I have tried to put my EXISITNG axle on articulation (same amount of what you are planning) and it is still OK.
6. However, if you are planning to raise the Jeep, and have 4" of Compression and 8 to 10 inch of Droop (total of 12 to 16 inches of travel), then YES, you might have to make the lower arm longer to correct the pinion angle, and minimize rear steer.
7. BUT, for street use only, IT SHOULD BE FINE....
8. Dont be Jealous,.... I am 42 now, and just got enough money to fulfill my hobby. I wish I had this when I was 18,....

[tealcherokee]

i wish i had enough money too

im looking for 3-4 of TOTAL travel. 1.5-2" of compression 1-2" droop

im sorry i havent gotten to ya about the brakes, ive been crazy busy, but I HAVE NOT FORGOTTEN!!!

[Wil Badger]

well if you would have included all relivent information at the begining that would have helped don't you think.since most people on this board look at going up and not down i tend to base my posts toward the up factor and not the down.

so depending on true ride height you might be fine with the front leaf mounts.

i'm sure you have grabbed the 4 link calculator so plug in the lengths and heights of the upper and lower to the wheel height and see what you get.i can't exactly say what numbers you would be looking for wit ha street application

[A Satria]

Originally Posted by tealcherokee

i wish i had enough money too

im looking for 3-4 of TOTAL travel. 1.5-2" of compression 1-2" droop

im sorry i havent gotten to ya about the brakes, ive been crazy busy, but I HAVE NOT FORGOTTEN!!!

it's OK, take your time, and just tell me when...

[A Satria]

Originally Posted by tealcherokee

Would factory rubber bushings cause the rear end (dana 44 btw) to walk side to side (is this called rear steer, or is that when the one side of the axle pulls forward and the other goes back during articulation).
?

• REAR STEER, when the one side of the axle pulls forward and the other goes back during articulation, CAUSED by lower pararel link and diagonal upper.
• On small articulations, (side to side), you wont notice any REAR STEER at all.
• if you want to get RID of Rear Steer, you have to have DOUBLE TRIANGULATED Arms on lower and upper.
• Rubber bushing would work fine for street, but NOT GOOD for articulations.... (side loading, etc)

Picture of EQUAL DOUBLE TRIANGULATED Rear 4-Link arms (for rock crawling with 18" of travel)

[tealcherokee]

ok, yeah, i definatly dont want to get into a double triangulated set up for 3-4" of travel, not worth it. as long as the rubber bushings are good enough, i think thats what im going to use

[A Satria]

Originally Posted by tealcherokee

ok, yeah, i definatly dont want to get into a double triangulated set up for 3-4" of travel, not worth it. as long as the rubber bushings are good enough, i think thats what im going to use

If possible, why dont you do the mock-up of the "COILS" using 2.5" ID coils, because when you decided to use 2" coil-over shock, you will end-up with 2.5" ID coils.
OR, 3" ID coils, if you plan to use 2.5 coil-over shocks.

Those two sizes are the most common coil-over shocks (KINGSHOCKS, SWAY-A-WAY, FOX SHOCKS, BILSTEN, WALKER EVANS, etc)

[tealcherokee]

Originally Posted by Priandhi Satria

If possible, why dont you do the mock-up of the "COILS" using 2.5" ID coils, because when you decided to use 2" coil-over shock, you will end-up with 2.5" ID coils.
OR, 3" ID coils, if you plan to use 2.5 coil-over shocks.

Those two sizes are the most common coil-over shocks (KINGSHOCKS, SWAY-A-WAY, FOX SHOCKS, BILSTEN, WALKER EVANS, etc)

im running coils and shocks, not coilovers, i dont have that kind of money....

id love to go coilovers, but, i cant.

im going to run some stock xj shocks and play around with a few different coils that i have laying around

[BrettM]

I believe Priandhi was speaking of using coils from coilover shocks, but without the shocks. This could be bad in a long-travel application as they may get tweaked sideways and "folded", but with only a couple inches of travel they should work fine.

Don't stock XJ coils mounted under the "frame" and on top of the axle net something like 8" of lift? If you cut them that much they will be REALLY stiff. What's your plan?

[tealcherokee]

im going to completly knotch into the frame like claytons does, and im putting the coil behind and below the axle, that should give me stock height with out cutting, and go from there

this is claytons set up