Ball joints bang for buck..

All that said.... ima weld em. Makes it easier to put em back on for sure.

Rough country ball boints... no one ever messed with em?

Im scared now im going to weld my bearings on. I now realize I'm trusting my life and otheres to 3 bolts

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Lmao do you even have WJ knuckles and Hub spacers???

Kind of drifted off topic... I know folks that run there's non welded for close to a decade so I'm not worried. I was tryna just understand the logic as to why that point of view, it being dangerous not to, makes sense. I still don't see it. But I'm not an engineer :shrug:

I pulled the trigger on RC ball joints for the JK. The price and build up is attractive, and welp no way to know if they are worth a shiz right?? The JK market has made a really made some companies step up, sooooo hopefully RC is one of em.

Goes this way I think

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This is a duralast gold upper from autozone. I got less than a year on the economy joints.

Im assuming upper for a 89 doesn't work with wj knuckles. Im not ready to do the wj swap yet. Need spacers, bearings and might do a set of calipers though not sure wich calipers I have.

Im replacing the economy joints with duralast gold under warranty.

Here's the gold upper suposebly a moog part ? Don't know if that's a good or bad thing.

Yeah its knurled

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Pretty sure you must do calipers? Or will your caliper brackets bolt up to the wj knuckles? I think its be silly not to, it's one of the benefits of the swap!

What are you talking about. I think caliper bracket is a must im sure it shares a bolt pattern with other 2 or possibly 4 piston calipers.

The better late late wj calipers that's what I mean. I have the shitty earlier wj calipers

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Ah, copy that..
You said you weren't sure if you were going to do calipers. I interpreted that as- not do wj calipers and try to slap your xj calipers on the wj knuckles. Don't think you'd get far if that were the case! All good.

The teeves get a bad rap, I enjoyed the dual pistons... until 2 of the 4 siezed... and another crumbled in a few places tryna fix that. Ordered powerstop powder coated (remans I'm sure) akebonos to replace. Hope they clear! Be a shame to take a grinder to the shiny powder coat lol

ShoeterMcgav said:

Hope they clear! Be a shame to take a grinder to the shiny powder coat lol

Click to expand...

I don't any reason you need to get grinder out, it should all just bolt on. I did need to do some shimming to get calipers centered!

I'm hoping so too... I run 15x10 steel rims. Kind of a crap shoot as far as fitment. Some people are fine others need to take down the casting edge on the caliper. One way to find out tho!

-already have ¼" (could be ⅜" its been a while) washers for proper spacing. Seems pretty standard

Evan03 said:

This is a duralast gold upper from autozone. I got less than a year on the economy joints.

Im assuming upper for a 89 doesn't work with wj knuckles. Im not ready to do the wj swap yet. Need spacers, bearings and might do a set of calipers though not sure wich calipers I have.

Im replacing the economy joints with duralast gold under warranty.

Here's the gold upper suposebly a moog part ? Don't know if that's a good or bad thing.

Yeah its knurled

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Click to expand...

Not as :bling: as yours, but these RC ball joints def feel hefty. Impossible to convey over the internet, but def feel HD. Hope they last a while... so far exceeding expectations

Ohhh i gotcha.
Those look beefy.
My duralast gold lower came with a badass installer tool and a needle grease fitting.

I've yet to install the driver side.
Passenger side has a gold upper and one-step up from economy line whatever that is.

I want the wj stuff for the flatter drag and track bar angles all the other brake stuff is a pita to me but I guess all right.

Apparently my track and drag aren't swinging in the path. I think can get them closer by lengthing the track bar out further now that the coil spring is gone. Right now they are thr same length and parralell at ride height. Off topic sorry

I think rcp means the 1/4" caliper spacers

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https://www.ironrockoffroad.com/product/wj-knuckle-swap-spacer-kit-hk-83.html

Fwiw Ironrock advertising the spacer as a "bolt on" kit.

ShoeterMcgav said:

https://www.ironrockoffroad.com/product/wj-knuckle-swap-spacer-kit-hk-83.html



Fwiw Ironrock advertising the spacer as a "bolt on" kit.

Click to expand...

Iro likes to call everything bolt on.... Even their 4 link conversion says bolt on.... I mean it does bolt on to the chassis, but the rear axle has some extensive welding lol

It's definitely a selling point for them

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ShoeterMcgav said:

I'm hoping so too... I run 15x10 steel rims. Kind of a crap shoot as far as fitment. Some people are fine others need to take down the casting edge on the caliper. One way to find out tho!

Click to expand...

Some say the calipers fit with out or with little grinding with 15" steel rims. Mine didn't fit with 15 inch rims. I was going with and did go with the 16 inch aluminum rims from a 2000-2001 XJ. Works good.
On the original WJ knuckles, the Bearing hub pilots into the knuckle. That is what hold it positionally in 2 degrees of freedom. The bolts hold it in the tererairy, or third degree, ie rotational in this instance. Yes, I deal with this stuff at work. With the spacer not welded, it could move. Do what you want.
Since the hub has been spaced out 1/4", then the caliper need to be spaced out 1/4" if using WJ rotors. You will need 4 of them.
I just took my 2000 XJ to WV, then to PA, then back to IN. Probably, 1400 miles +. This was through mountains. I did get 18 mpg on certain legs of the trip. I was expecting better. I had a front tire that was way under inflated. I did go to 38 psi on my return trip. I am on 31's and lifted 2". The brqaking and handling was VG on Rt 15 in WV. Its twisty.

What can move with everything tight and thread locked is what I fail to see... #science all ya want, I just don't see isht moving. I know others unwelded with a decade of miles on em.

To weld ot not to weld... not really something I was even asking.