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TC at 8* Pinion at 5*, 3* shim fix it?

viperbluelx

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Ringgold, GA
I have a stock driveshaft and 1" TC drop. My TC angle is 8* down, my pinion is 5* up. I know the angles are supposed to match with the stock driveshaft, so I could use a 3* shim to raise the pinion nose up a little and it would be at 5* to match the TC angle, would this work?
 
You could try a 2*,remember you still have to account for axle-wrap.
 
Driveshaft angle doesnt mean anything!
 
Maybe I'm not wording it correctly then. From my understanding you want the transfer case angle and the pinion face to both be at the same angle. Currently my pinion face is 3* lower than my tc angle. If I shim the front of my rearend upward 3* then the TC angle will match the angle of the pinion face.
 
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You worded it perfectly,you just didn't take into account for axle wrap!(and the fact that driveshaft angles dont matter).
 
I don't understand either of RCP's last 2 posts, but his first one is true. Most people say to aim the pinion yoke a little lower than the yoke on the tcase so when you're on the gas, it'll rotate up to be inline. When that happens, your driveshaft and pinion yoke should point directly at the tcase yoke. Does that make sense?

edit, rats I thought you had an SYE, because this is the modified board. You want the yokes to have the same angles for a stock single-cardon driveshaft design. You still need to take the axle wrap into affect, though.
 
I don't understand either of RCP's last 2 posts, but his first one is true. Most people say to aim the pinion yoke a little lower than the yoke on the tcase so when you're on the gas, it'll rotate up to be inline. When that happens, your driveshaft and pinion yoke should point directly at the tcase yoke. Does that make sense?
What don't you understand?
 
edit, rats I thought you had an SYE, because this is the modified board. You want the yokes to have the same angles for a stock single-cardon driveshaft design. You still need to take the axle wrap into affect, though.

Sorry, posted here because I have a 3" lift and 1" tc drop.
 
Driveshaft angle doesnt mean anything!
This confused me... Strictly speaking, it's correct, since the goal is to reduce the stress on the two ujoints so neither is operated outside of the tolerances. But, you do have to check the angles on both side of the ujoint. Compare the degrees on the yokes and also make sure that when the driveshaft turns it doesn't exceed the working range of the ujoints. Most people refer to the whole process as fixing the driveshaft angles, not ujoint angles although that's the more exact terminology.

( Initially, I thought he had an SYE, in which case the driveshaft to pinion angle does matter. I should have removed it when I edited my post, I wouldn't have posted that if I realized at first that he was asking about a single cardon setup. sorry :looser: )
 
This confused me... Strictly speaking, it's correct, since the goal is to reduce the stress on the two ujoints so neither is operated outside of the tolerances. But, you do have to check the angles on both side of the ujoint. Compare the degrees on the yokes and also make sure that when the driveshaft turns it doesn't exceed the working range of the ujoints. Most people refer to the whole process as fixing the driveshaft angles, not ujoint angles although that's the more exact terminology.

( Initially, I thought he had an SYE, in which case the driveshaft to pinion angle does matter. I should have removed it when I edited my post, I wouldn't have posted that if I realized at first that he was asking about a single cardon setup. sorry :looser: )

You are correct,you still need to consider "operating" angles,that plus all the "other" reasons that everyone tries to avoid/ignore is why EVERY XJ should have at least a H-n-T SYE installed!
On a side note,the only angles Ive ever seen maxxed out was my front driveshaft because of 6" of lift with a LP D30.My CV was binding,but a little die grinder work fixed that.
 
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I thought you had an SYE, because this is the modified board.

So just because you don't have an SYE means it's OEM. Well I guess mine don't qualify as modified either.

Viper you should be fine. You could use shackles to help with some of the angle as well.
 
WOW! Some useful info and some mis-information likewise in this thread. Here is the deal.

1. If you are using a stock driveshaft with u-jointed ends, your pinion angle needs to be pointed 1-2 degrees less than your TC output shaft angle to adjust for load/axle wrap.

2. If you are running a CV style shaft, your pinion need to point DIRECTLY to the CV joint, minus 1-2 degrees for load/axle wrap.

Mark, you will learn that NAXJA is comprised of about 95% who are wannabe magazine/web wheelers and the other 5% speak from experience.
 
x2^^^
 
Alright today I pulled the TC drop and put it back stock just as a test and the vibrations were noticeably worse than before.

Where the link where you use the front driveshafts in the rear?
 
Alright today I pulled the TC drop and put it back stock just as a test and the vibrations were noticeably worse than before.

Where the link where you use the front driveshafts in the rear?
You cant use a front driveshaft in a rear application without a SYE kit!
 
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