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Putting the Head back on?

bigboyslimjimbo

NAXJA Forum User
I was wondering if i need to rtv any of the head bolts? I believe their are 14 of them. This is my first time takeing the head off and putting it back on so i was in need of some advise if any Thanx.
 
Correct - PTFE pipe dope on the driver's side front head screw. Final torque for that screw is 100 pound-feet, and 110 pound-feet for the rest.

Standing on the driver's side, the torque sequence is to start on the driver's side centre, go to the passenger side centre, and work out from there in a clockwise spiral. I torque to 25-50-75-final pound-feet, and haven't had any trouble (I know it's more than the manual sez to do, but I'm cranky.)

Replace the screws for the thermostat housing with brass, bronze, or stainless. If you have to use alloy steel, coat the entire screw with RTV up to the underside of the head.

Replace the screws for the manifold. I like to use silicon bronze, but you may not have time to wait for those (they have to be ordered from an outfit like Fastenal.) If you're in a hurry, you can use SAE5 carbon steel - but replace them every time. Retain and reuse the dish-shaped washers. I also suggest replacing the studs - you can cut new ones from threaded rod (I use brass) in 3/8"-16, just get new nuts as well (the OEM ones are threaded 3/8"-24, and you'll be eliminating that.)
 
If you want to follow the factory instructions exactly, you should not put anything on the bolts (except the front one already mentioned which needs sealant). In addition you should not re-use bolts. Here are the reasons...

Bolts provide clamping action to hold things together. This clamping is a factor of the strength (roughly based on diameter) and how much the bolt is being stretched (you can think of it like a really really strong rubber band). What stretches the bolt is the threads being turn down into something like the block, or being pulled up by something like a nut. For example on a metric 1.25 pitch bolt, each turn pulls the bolt up 1.25mm.

The problem with the above is that figuring out how much each bolt should be turned is too complicated for the general public (the military uses the complex way which is technically much better). Sooo... the general public uses torque wrenches to *guess* how much the bolt is being stetched and consequently how much clamping is being provided. And this torque reading is simply how hard the nut/bolt is to turn.

What makes the bolt hard to turn? The threaded hole is initially rough, as well as the bolt. New bolts and holes are harder to turn than ones that have been used several times. Even simple things like washers can affect this, and most nuts go on with washers to provide less turning resistance which makes the torque wrench measurement more accurate.

Back to the head bolts. After the head bolts have been used once several factors have changed. 1) The bolt threads have become slightly polished/less rough, meaning that for the same turning resistance you are actually stetching the bolt more and providing greater clamping force. 2) the prior installation may have even over-stretched the bolts resulting in bolts which are actually smaller in diameter and have different clamping characteristics.

What does this mean to you?

In reality, the above probably won't really affect you much. Many people re-use head bolts (they are expensive to replace). And the manufacturer is going to provide guidance that is as safe for them as possible, and may even further increase sales of their products.
 
If you want to follow the factory instructions exactly, you should not put anything on the bolts (except the front one already mentioned which needs sealant). In addition you should not re-use bolts. Here are the reasons...

Bolts provide clamping action to hold things together. This clamping is a factor of the strength (roughly based on diameter) and how much the bolt is being stretched (you can think of it like a really really strong rubber band). What stretches the bolt is the threads being turn down into something like the block, or being pulled up by something like a nut. For example on a metric 1.25 pitch bolt, each turn pulls the bolt up 1.25mm.

The problem with the above is that figuring out how much each bolt should be turned is too complicated for the general public (the military uses the complex way which is technically much better). Sooo... the general public uses torque wrenches to *guess* how much the bolt is being stetched and consequently how much clamping is being provided. And this torque reading is simply how hard the nut/bolt is to turn.

What makes the bolt hard to turn? The threaded hole is initially rough, as well as the bolt. New bolts and holes are harder to turn than ones that have been used several times. Even simple things like washers can affect this, and most nuts go on with washers to provide less turning resistance which makes the torque wrench measurement more accurate.

Back to the head bolts. After the head bolts have been used once several factors have changed. 1) The bolt threads have become slightly polished/less rough, meaning that for the same turning resistance you are actually stetching the bolt more and providing greater clamping force. 2) the prior installation may have even over-stretched the bolts resulting in bolts which are actually smaller in diameter and have different clamping characteristics.

What does this mean to you?

In reality, the above probably won't really affect you much. Many people re-use head bolts (they are expensive to replace). And the manufacturer is going to provide guidance that is as safe for them as possible, and may even further increase sales of their products.

However, per FSM, the cylinder head screws are a modification of the "Torque To Yield" screws typically used on Diesels. Therefore, they are good for two torque cycles and that's it! If you see paint marks on the screws, replace them. If you do not, torque them and then put paint marks on them (per FSM. I'd just forgotten to mention. Sowwy...:twak:)

Yah, you're safer just replacing them from the off, but I don't know if you're in a hurry to get the job done. From the markings I recall on the heads, they are probably SAE8 or equivalent - I just haven't been able to experiment with them to verify that standard SAE8 (or SAE L9) screws could be used as a viable replacement.
 
I am in a hurry and i replaced all the bolts except the head bolts. Also i noticed some of the head bolts on the passenger side had rtv on them. What does this mean? I am putting them back in without sealant except for the one. Yall think that would be alright?
 
I am in a hurry and i replaced all the bolts except the head bolts. Also i noticed some of the head bolts on the passenger side had rtv on them. What does this mean? I am putting them back in without sealant except for the one. Yall think that would be alright?

That will be fine - the #11 screw (driver's side front) is the only one that sticks into the water jacket anyhow.

What you had taken for "RTV" may be threadlocker - what is blue, perchance?

Make sure to put paint marks on the screw heads - at least on the studs, so you know the head has been off next time.
 
The torque is 22 ft lbs first pass.

45 ft. lbs. second pass.

Then check all again at 45 ft. lbs.

Final pass, torque all, EXPCEPT the drivers front(coolant jacket one) to 110 ft. lbs. Torque the drivers front(coolant jacket one) to 100 ft. lbs with pipe sealant, or non hardening Permatex #1. Dont be shy with the sealant.
 
Actually the color was orange on the bolts. But i have permatex thread locker high strength is that what i put on the #11 bolt? Or i also have rtv sealant for the thermostat housing or i have the rtv black?
 
Im just doing it right now and the hardware stores are closed. Is there any thing else i can use?

Any variety of plumbing thread sealant - PTFE dope is preferred, but hydraulic fitting sealant or anything else isn't bad. I would probably not use Teflon tape, tho.

Check your plumbing box. RTV is a possibility as well, but I've not tried it. No reason for it to not work, tho.
 
I used "the right stuff" for the head bolts on my big block Chevy. Only on the ones that go to the water jackets. You can get it at your local parts store.
 
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