stranded - recommendations?

Well, my brand new (to me) XJ is stranded in Santa Clarita/Valencia. My girl was driving it when it developed a maniacal bird chirp in the front of the motor and promptly shot the temp gauge into the red. She had the wherewithal to shut it down and pull it over, but now it's stuck here with what I'm guessing is a broken water pump. The clattery chirping is still there and there's a rather sorry looking pulley wobbling around at the end of what i assume is the water pump (I've not yet had time to familiarize myself with the layout in the engine room - the poor thing's not even registered yet.

Just for gits and shiggles, I called a nearby shop and they want $450 for the job. Riiiiight. AAA won't let me upgrade to Premium and then get the long tow (25 miles to my house in Lake Hughes) so that's out.

I've got a big old F350 with a huge steel utility bumper with a tow ball and plugin that would be fine for towing, but Uhaul is all out of flatbeds til the 27th. I guess my question would be whether it makes more sense to rent a dolly, which they do have available, and deal with disconnecting the driveshaft, etc. Or should I just go buy a water pump and coolant, grab my tools, and change it out on this random Valencia side street? It looks to be a reasonably straightforward job but I've not turned bolt one on this Heep yet. Sage words, anyone?

Apologies for any weird typos; I'm writing from my phone in the jeep. Ah, technology.

kristuphir said:

Well, my brand new (to me) XJ is stranded in Santa Clarita/Valencia. My girl was driving it when it developed a maniacal bird chirp in the front of the motor and promptly shot the temp gauge into the red. She had the wherewithal to shut it down and pull it over, but now it's stuck here with what I'm guessing is a broken water pump. The clattery chirping is still there and there's a rather sorry looking pulley wobbling around at the end of what i assume is the water pump (I've not yet had time to familiarize myself with the layout in the engine room - the poor thing's not even registered yet.

Just for gits and shingles, I called a nearby shop and they want $450 for the job. Riiiiight. AAA won't let me upgrade to Premium and then get the long tow, so that's out.

I've got a big old F350 with a huge steel utility bumper with a tow ball and plugin that would be fine for towing, but Uhaul is all out of flatbeds til the 27th. I guess my question would be whether it makes more sense to rent a dolly, which they do have available, and deal with disconnecting the driveshaft, etc. Or should I just go buy a water pump and coolant, grab my tools, and change it out on this random Valencia side street? It looks to be a reasonably straightforward job but I've not turned bolt one on this Heep yet. Sage words, anyone?

Apologies for any weird typos; I'm writing from my phone in the jeep. Ah, technology.

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If it wasn't that I gotta deal with upcoming travel I'd swing by to help you out. Anyways, water pump change is a fairly easy job. What year is it? There is slight difference with dealing with the fanbelt on pre 97 and 97+. Let us know what year and we'll help you out at least with instructions.

Mortimer's Hardware in Green Valley has Uhaul stuff. He just left for the day but you might try him tomorrow. 270-1770. He works on cars (doesn't sell hardware) so he usually has a dolly or two. He's also only 18 miles from Seco and Copperhill so he might be within your 25 mile limit if you had it taken there. He's very reasonable too.

Oh right, the Jeep is an '87 remix machine. Napa just said they have two pumps for the car and can't say which one I need.

Good call on Mortimer's; I didn't realize he wash't actually hardware. Might try him tomorrow. The tow limit is only 7 miles though...

Did you buy that red XJ that was on the corner of LE Road and Johnson a while back? I may have a pump if you have a 2.5 4 banger.

kristuphir said:

Oh right, the Jeep is an '87 remix machine. Napa just said they have two pumps for the car and can't say which one I need.

Good call on Mortimer's; I didn't realize he wash't actually hardware. Might try him tomorrow. The tow limit is only 7 miles though...

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I'm in Santa Clarita, sorta...

Where is the XJ? Where are you? Do you have a solution? PM me...

bburge

JeepDad said:

Did you buy that red XJ that was on the corner of LE Road and Johnson a while back? I may have a pump if you have a 2.5 4 banger.

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Nope, this one's a two-tone beater from Whittier. It's got a 4.0, but I really appreciate the offer!

bburge said:

I'm in Santa Clarita, sorta...

Where is the XJ? Where are you? Do you have a solution? PM me...

bburge

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You've been PMed. It's starting to freeze up here at home, so that puts another element of interest into the mix...

I've never "dollied" before. Do you really have to disconnect a driveshaft?

I thought putting the tnansfer case in neutral was enough...

bburge

It seems there's a lot of argument over this. I read that sometimes the Tcase can work itself out of neutral, and cause all kinds of neat stuff to happen. I'll look into it further but in the small amount of quick research I've managed so far, it seems the best idea if towing on two wheels...

Several posts here caught my attention:

http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=916291&highlight=towing+with+a+dolly

I think I qualify as an early 231 owner. But then again, maybe i should man up and just disconnect the shaft - it's probably not too hard. Just cold and wet.

ive towed with a dolly many many times. for a short distance ( just a couple miles) put in nuetral and l the tranny in nutral and you should be ok, for anything longer pull the shaft if for nothing else so your not running the t-case without lubrication from the pump

Do not put the trans in nuetral...read the manual put the trans in park....other wise the back of the trans will spin and you have no lube unless it is running... The transfer case has a pump in it, that is splined to the output shaft. By putting the t-case in nuetral with the rear wheels spinning and the drive shaft spinning you will still have lube in the t-case. The trans need to have the engine running in order to have a lube circuit

T-case in nuetral....trans in park (if it's a 5 speed put it in gear)

however it's only four 8mm bolts that hold the drive shaft on.

Justin

His is an '87. Attempting to remove those bolts without soaking in PBBlaster for a few days could do thousands of dollars of damages!

It's like dominoes....

bburge

Mines an 87 and Ive never stripped U-Joint bolts w/o using PBBlaster or even WD40. Use of a 8mm 1/4" drive ratchet it all thats needed or box wrench if preferred.

bburge said:

His is an '87. Attempting to remove those bolts without soaking in PBBlaster for a few days could do thousands of dollars of damages!

It's like dominoes....

bburge

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get a 6 point socket on them, they'll come out. If you break the bolt, I'll personally send you a used replacement yoke with bolts and a straps

Justin

Crap!

Did this dump lose its sense of humor?!?

Go get 'em Rick!!!! :explosion

bburge

in the few years I have been towing I always play it safe and pull the drive shaft, throw the transfer in neutral and leave the transmission in park, that's only for lift tows from the front, you can easily get away with disconnecting the rear portion of the drive shaft and strap it to something secure, just my opinion