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Hard SHifting AX15 - reccom. lubricant.

Auburn Boy

NAXJA Forum User
Location
California
Hello,

My first post here, but have been reading a while. Lots of good info.

Seems hard to run an XJ into the ground. :)

Lately I've had some hard shifting problems that are partly solved by refilling the master cylinder. :rolleyes: Should have checked that more often.

I've still got a bit of difficulty pushing it into first and reverse. I have to sort of wiggle it tenderly into place, which leaves out any fast shifts..,

As I've got 165K on the machine, I was wondering if replacing the transmission lube with a synthetic and an additive wouldn't help. I've read here that RedLine is good, but what about Royal Purple?

In calling around, I found that the GL-3 and GL-4 grades have both been superceded with newer formula GL-5. Hmmmm.., Any thought on this?

FInally, I'd heard that some heavy duty truck drivers and our Kragen and Riebes parts stores recommend adding Lucas transmission additive to manual transmissions that are older and giving hard shifting problems.

What say you all??

I'm preparing to go out and get a flush and refill and would like to hear your ideas.

Thanks!!!
 
Yup. Thought of that.

Old boats leak.

Thanks, I'll look into that too.

Refilling the reservoir didn't make the clutch pedal come up any farther off of the floor when engaging though. It still tries to engage at about 10-20 percent of it's throw.

Leak causing air bubbles to hydraulic to work effectively??
 
You can't "flush" a manual transmission. All you can do is drain and refill, which you can do yourself with simple handtools for much cheaper than taking it to a shop. It's also possibly your synchro's are starting to go bad. Is there any grinding, or does it ever pop out of gear on its own?
 
Thanks! Do it myself!

It never pops out of gear, but getting into reverse sometimes causes either a big "CLUNK" or some grinding. That has going on since it was brand new. I think reverse isn't as good a synchro as the forward gears.

What effort does it take to find/fix any leaks in the hydro lines for the master cylinder? Or to bleed the master, for that matter?

I have gotten to the point where I sort of "hate" working on my own car. After changing all the bushings on the XJ (what a chore..,)
 
Look for fluid.

Under master.

Bottom of bellhousing.

Along the line.

replaced failed componant.

My guess? Check the bellhousing...if it is wet....slave leaks.

Rev
 
Rev Den said:
Look for fluid.

Under master.

Bottom of bellhousing.

Along the line.

replaced failed componant.

My guess? Check the bellhousing...if it is wet....slave leaks.

Rev

Oh boy. I wondered where all that wet came from..,

I'm not positive, since I didn't get to look at it too closely, but the underside of the front part of the transmission is wet. I'll have to look at it closely in the morning when I can take my time.

I don't like the idea of taking out that "concentric bearing/slave cylinder combo" that's supposedly on the '91 Cherokee..,
 
Its not to bad....do a search here....should be about a 5-6 hour job for a first timer.

The last one I did was number 6 and took me 2.5 hours.....that ws a while ago, the new style has rubber bellows that protect the unit.

Rev
 
No GL-5....
No GL-5....
No GL-5....

The additive package in GL-5 will damage your synchros on the AX-15.

AMSOIL offers a manual transmission specific fluid. Red Line does also(IIRC), I don't know about RP.
 
Auburn Boy said:
Thanks! Do it myself!

It never pops out of gear, but getting into reverse sometimes causes either a big "CLUNK" or some grinding. That has going on since it was brand new. I think reverse isn't as good a synchro as the forward gears.

What effort does it take to find/fix any leaks in the hydro lines for the master cylinder? Or to bleed the master, for that matter?

I have gotten to the point where I sort of "hate" working on my own car. After changing all the bushings on the XJ (what a chore..,)

That's because reverse is an un-synchronized gear! If you want to stop that sound, before you put it in reverse, put it in first, then go to reverse...first is geared relatively close to reverse, so when you put it in first, it will eliminate the grinding you hear when going into reverse almost completely....you may still hear it once in a while, but if you don't mid the sound, it's not going to hurt anything.
 
keep0njeepin0n said:
That's because reverse is an un-synchronized gear! If you want to stop that sound, before you put it in reverse, put it in first, then go to reverse...first is geared relatively close to reverse, so when you put it in first, it will eliminate the grinding you hear when going into reverse almost completely....you may still hear it once in a while, but if you don't mid the sound, it's not going to hurt anything.

My, the things you learn when you get around to asking.., ;)

Thanks!
 
Rev Den said:
Its not to bad....do a search here....should be about a 5-6 hour job for a first timer.

The last one I did was number 6 and took me 2.5 hours.....that ws a while ago, the new style has rubber bellows that protect the unit.

Rev

{cringe}

I'll look into it..,
 
w_howey said:
No GL-5....
No GL-5....
No GL-5....

The additive package in GL-5 will damage your synchros on the AX-15.

AMSOIL offers a manual transmission specific fluid. Red Line does also(IIRC), I don't know about RP.

Hmmmm..,

Two folks I talked to said that GL-3 and GL-4 were discontinued.

Only Riebes has the RedLine, so I'll look and see if they carry the better formulation.

Merci beau coups.
 
w_howey said:
No GL-5....
No GL-5....
No GL-5....

The additive package in GL-5 will damage your synchros on the AX-15.

AMSOIL offers a manual transmission specific fluid. Red Line does also(IIRC), I don't know about RP.

Red Line MT-90 IIRC
 
I think all of the internal slaves have a bleeder down by the tranny. It looks like a brake nipple and you should be able to bleed any air out of the system that way.
 
lawsoncl said:
I think all of the internal slaves have a bleeder down by the tranny. It looks like a brake nipple and you should be able to bleed any air out of the system that way.

As I was inspecting for leaks, I found that bleed valve.

All the external lines are dry and dusty. The only leakage seems to be from around the bell housing and the front of the tranny. :(

Maybe I will bleed the system, since the reservoir was dry it might have let some air get to the slave/bearing ring..,

I've got my work cut out for me.

I'll try and get the RedLine MT 90.
 
Last edited:
Oh well..,

The darned bleed valve is frozen shut. (It's NEVER been used.)

Any suggestions. It's in a near inaccessible place. Maybe only can be broken free on a lift..,

Grrrrrrr...,
 
I've been able to "unstick" brake bleeders with a heavy application of Kroil (substitute penetrating oil of your choice, WD40 is not a penetrating oil) and a deep socket w/ cheater bar. Sorry, I don't know specifically about the clutch bleeder, though.
 
Auburn Boy said:
Oh boy. I wondered where all that wet came from..,

I'm not positive, since I didn't get to look at it too closely, but the underside of the front part of the transmission is wet. I'll have to look at it closely in the morning when I can take my time.

I don't like the idea of taking out that "concentric bearing/slave cylinder combo" that's supposedly on the '91 Cherokee..,

if you do go in there to change it i would consider replacing your clutch at the same time.
 
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