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Axle Shims, Newbie's searches inadequate

F9K9

F9K9

Semper Fi
Location
London, KY, US
I just need some sources of shims over 2.5°. I have tried multiple searches here and google but, I must be doing something stupid to not get the correct results.

Yes, I know that a Tom Woods H n T for a np242 on a '92 Limited is about the only choice, other than GoJeep's recent alternative. I do not have much money into the project that started 4 months and I am not far from bailing out on this XJ and searching for another. It has a RE 3.5" SF lift and the driveline vibes have already taken out the rear half of the 242 and the 8.25" pinion yoke once. I have performed the tc drop but, still have vibes. I purchased a magnetic angle finder, as was suggested, and now I need to try the shims before I quit on this XJ. There is a 5° difference from the TC output and the 8.25" pinion yoke. RE only went up to 2.5° shims.

A source or a patient lesson in performing searches would be deeply appreciated.

Stay safe,

Reed
 
Rusty's has 4* and 6* shims for around 9 bux
 
ZacSquatch said:
Rusty's has 4* and 6* shims for around 9 bux
Click to expand...
I guess it doesn't matter matter if, I go 1° over or under then:)
 
ZacSquatch said:
Rusty's has 4* and 6* shims for around 9 bux
Click to expand...
I guess it doesn't matter matter if, I go 1° over or under then:)

Thanks for the pointer, Sir!
 
quite welcome... if you can, get the billet steele ones, i cracked one of the aluminums in half but as cheap as they are its not bad replacin them
0407071726.jpg
 
Rocky Road has 3 and 5 degree (and will custom make any others you want), Jeepinoutfitters.com has 4, 6 and 8 I believe....Poison Spyder Customs has a few different ones.
 
I'm worried about hurting things on mine as well (01XJ, 231, D35) but have no idea how to go about figuring out what * shim I need. I had a low speed vibe then did H&T SYE with a shaft conversion and have a vibe that starts at about 73Mph. It isn't bad just growles, I also noticed that the oil slinger in the TC is starting to seap a bit.

Sorry not to hijack but I want it fixed before I have broken parts.
 
If your oil slinger is seeping, maybe just replacing the seal behind it would stop the leak? I don't think the oil slinger does much in the way of holding ATF in the TC, does it?
 
I appreciate all the advice and apologize for the "almost" double post. I will try all the sites suggested.

What is all that white stuff "Zaqsquatch"? A photo just taken in the winter?
 
Thats good ole Uwharrie mud... did that and this on Kodak Rock
hahabroke.jpg
 
they double as bump-stops, haha.

They're from when I had blocks back in the day and I've totaly forgotten to cut emm down.
 
F9K9 said:
I just need some sources of shims over 2.5°. I have tried multiple searches here and google but, I must be doing something stupid to not get the correct results.

Yes, I know that a Tom Woods H n T for a np242 on a '92 Limited is about the only choice, other than GoJeep's recent alternative. I do not have much money into the project that started 4 months and I am not far from bailing out on this XJ and searching for another. It has a RE 3.5" SF lift and the driveline vibes have already taken out the rear half of the 242 and the 8.25" pinion yoke once. I have performed the tc drop but, still have vibes. I purchased a magnetic angle finder, as was suggested, and now I need to try the shims before I quit on this XJ. There is a 5° difference from the TC output and the 8.25" pinion yoke. RE only went up to 2.5° shims.

A source or a patient lesson in performing searches would be deeply appreciated.

Stay safe,

Reed
Click to expand...

There is supposed to be a 3* difference to allow for pinion windup during acceleration. So you dont need as big a shim as you say. With a 1" transfercase drop you only require a 2* shim to restore the correct relationship between upper and lower unis.
 
Gojeep said:
There is supposed to be a 3* difference to allow for pinion windup during acceleration. So you dont need as big a shim as you say. With a 1" transfercase drop you only require a 2* shim to restore the correct relationship between upper and lower unis.
Click to expand...
Thanks a bunch! I need to get on the horn and change my order this morning.

I was a little amazed at my readings on concrete anyway. I did not check the concrete for it angle but, it looked level. I do know it was level axle wise so, the readings are realitive. Reading my TC output angle was exactly 0° when measured using the transmission pan for a mounting location. I used the differential spreader holes for the differential measurement and the angle was 5° upwards toward the TC output. Mounting surfaces were clean and I took the readings 3 different times. This is exactly opposite of what I was expecting. I thought that normally shims or shackles were used to raise the pinion angle up but, not so in my case. I need to lower my pinion angle 2°.:dunno:
 
JNickel101 said:
If your oil slinger is seeping, maybe just replacing the seal behind it would stop the leak? I don't think the oil slinger does much in the way of holding ATF in the TC, does it?
Click to expand...

The seal was just replaced when I did the SYE, and at $25 I'd like to see if the angle is to blame for the leak. And the slinger does a lot with moving the ATV around. Before I replaced the seal I reused the old one with some RTV and leak was not enough to describe the flow.
 
F9K9 said:
Thanks a bunch! I need to get on the horn and change my order this morning.

I was a little amazed at my readings on concrete anyway. I did not check the concrete for it angle but, it looked level. I do know it was level axle wise so, the readings are realitive. Reading my TC output angle was exactly 0° when measured using the transmission pan for a mounting location. I used the differential spreader holes for the differential measurement and the angle was 5° upwards toward the TC output. Mounting surfaces were clean and I took the readings 3 different times. This is exactly opposite of what I was expecting. I thought that normally shims or shackles were used to raise the pinion angle up but, not so in my case. I need to lower my pinion angle 2°.:dunno:
Click to expand...
You need to raise your pinion 2 degrees to get it to a 3* difference. So fit the shims with the thin side towards the front.
 
If he's not running a CV shaft, he needs to lower the pinion a couple degrees.
 
Ray H said:
If he's not running a CV shaft, he needs to lower the pinion a couple degrees.
Click to expand...
I am definitely confused now but, 2° shims is a special order from Rocky Road and I have two more weeks to get this thing figured out. It was no hassle to get the online order changed via telephone. That was my first dealings with them and I do have to give them A+ for working with me.

Yes, I have a stock rear drive shaft.
 
Ray H said:
If he's not running a CV shaft, he needs to lower the pinion a couple degrees.
Click to expand...
This is correct, with the fat side towards the front lowers the pinion. You want the pinion to sit as flat as possible w/o a slip yoke. With a slip yoke you want it pointed at the rear of the Tranfer case.
 
boise49ers said:
This is correct, with the fat side towards the front lowers the pinion. You want the pinion to sit as flat as possible w/o a slip yoke. With a slip yoke you want it pointed at the rear of the Tranfer case.
Click to expand...

This may be backwards but when I didn't have an SYE I pointed the pinion right at the t-case, no more vibes when I did that. I know it was againt what is said most of the time but it worked like a charm for me. Still went ahead and did the SYE a year or so later and am very happy with it.
 
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