Tricks for removing Lifters out of a 2.5L

I'm replacing my valve stem seals on my '95 XJ w/ 2.5L L4 & AX-5. While I'm at it, I got a new set of lifters in hopes of finally eliminating all the valve ticking. (I've tried the additives, it didn't help).

I've tried a 10LB pull magnet on a wand, it can move the lifter up/down some, but it can't break it out, its pretty stuck in with varnish I guess.

The Haynes manual I have, says to use a special tool, but doesn't go too into specifics, NOR do I really want to spend a lot on a special tool.

Anyone got some tricks or suggestions on how to get the lifters out, without removing the head? Remember, this a 2.5L, I believe the openings in the head are much smaller than the 4.0L for the lifter/push rods, there is no way anyone's hand is going to get in there to grab the lifter.

life is much easier with a hydraulic valve lifter removal tool! You can find one at almost any good parts house for relatively little green (maybe $20 for ocasional use quality) They work like mechanical fingers that grab the inner ridge on the lifter and better ones have a small slide-hammer style weight to help free the lifters-- won't try to pull 'em without one now that I've used it!
--Shorty

if you were a little closer, I'd say come and get it-- but I think the gas would cost a bit more than the tool!
--Shorty

Yea, I really can't think of anything else other than the tool, looks like I have to take the plunge and start looking for one this afternoon.

I thought stronger than normal magnet might do the trick, but it still can't pull the lifter past the varnish sticking the lifter in the bore. As well, what a PITA trying to get a magnet down to the lifter. All surrounded by cast iron that the magnet gets draw too, no matter how welled I steadied the wand, the magnet was strong enough to bend the wand. I must have spent 10 minutes with the magnet stuck to every part of the engine, for every 10 seconds I could get the magnet on the lifter.

I went to Advance Auto today, they had the tool for $9.88, thats less than what I spent on magnet on a wand that didn't work. DOH! Now I can get this job done.

Rick....little tip for ya. Use that tool to put the lifters back in, too. DO NOT drop them by hand and think they're gonna go where they are supposed to, 'cause they won't. I found that out the hard way....they all fell over once they popped thru the hole, and I had one hell of a time trying to fish them back out.

Jeff

Thats where that 10lb pull magnet on a wand would probably come in handy.

If I hadn't scratched up the thing trying to pull the lifters, I would have tried to return it. OH Well, I'm sure it will come in handy in the future.

BTW, I should fill the lifters with oil before installing them, correct? In the past I just put them in a can of oil and pumped them using the push-rod. I've got some assembly lube as well, to coat the contact surface on the lifter, I guess I'll try to drip some down on the cam lobe, but as long as there is lots on the lifter I should be fine.

And while I'm at it; Valve Stem Seals, I did the first two last night, I have 6 left. I just pushed the seal on by hand. I went back and looked at the Haynes Manual and they stated you should seat the seal by tapping it down with a deep well socket and hammer. It seemed seated well by just pushing hard with my fingers. I also worry about messing up the seal tapping on it with a hammer. Do I need to go back and tap down those seals with a hammer, or is finger pressure seating just fine?

Be sure to lube the lifters up real good with cam lube....and when you crank it up...keep the revs up to 2500 for at least 15 minutes to break in the lifters. (same as if you have a new cam also)....or you could damage the cam and new lifters...and make sure the preload is within spec....

MudDawg said:

...and make sure the preload is within spec....

Click to expand...

Sorry, I edited my response probably while you were typing yours, thats why you'll see me mentioning Assembly Lube before you do.

Pre-Load, remember this is a 2.5L L4, I don't think it has a pre-load. There is no stud for the rockers, its literally a bolt you torque down to bottom, no adjustment, just torque it down.

I thought "Pre-Load" meant a procedure like, tightening the nut on the stud until there is NO lash in the rocker, then tightening the nut an additional X.X turns.

In my case it doesn't look like I have any adjustment like that. OR, DO I HAVE THE CONCEPT ALL WRONG, and there is a Pre-Load Adjustment I have to do?

Are you installing new lifters or putting the old ones back in? If new, follow MudDawg's break-in recommendation on the RPM's...very important. If reusing the old ones, make sure you put each lifter back where you got it from, since the foot will have a profile specific to each cam lobe it rode against.

In either case, pre-oil them. Submerge each one vertically in clean engine oil and use a pushrod to pump them up until you see oil coming out of the hole on the side. If reusing your old ones, you'll be able to easily see the old oil still inside each lifter as they pump up...it'll be discolored as it comes out of the hole. When it runs clean, you're good to go.

There is no preload, just put it all back together (use some assy lube under the rocker pivots, too) and torque the bridges to spec. If you haven't at this point, drain the oil, install a new filter, and refill the crankcase by pouring the new oil down thru all the pushrod holes before you put the VC back on....that'll help prevent a dry startup even more for the cam lobes.

HTH,

Jeff

Preload.......Ok....technically there is no adjustment....BUT....there is a range it must be in...checking is simple.....with the lifter on the heel of the cam lobe, tighten the pedestal bolt by hand until all slack is removed from the pushrod....if you have about 3/4 turn more before the bolt is tight...you are ok....some series of 2.5 have/had significant differences in deck height from spec....this can affect preload and cause noisy valvetrain...

Jeff, thanks, they are new lifters and I was planning exactly as you recommend.

MudDawg, I get the picture, thanks for the pointer, I agree, its worth the few moments to check that pre-load. If its out, at least I'll know what is the likely cause that I may correct later.

If the pre-load is off, I guess the best solution is too get some sort of adjustable push rod?? I'd don't like the idea of shaving down or using washers in the pivot points for the rockers, I could see how that works, but I can also see that creating new problems as well.

my experience has been that more than optimal clearances on positive stop style rockers is usually due to manufacturing tolerances in all of the parts being on the loose side and when added together equal too much. If, per chance, after installation they are too loose; I would recomend a change of the rockers and bridge on the affected pair. Luck might get you there by swapping bridges from one cyl. to another, but I prefer to replace instead of moving a problem elsewhere.

best of luck!
--Shorty