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I am running the Teraflex high steer system with the Aluminum drag link and tie rod. Lets just say the tie rod doesn't like the rocks all that much. Its bent bad and the alignment is way off no matter how much I adjust it. I was wondering if anyone knows what tie rod I could run instead of the Teraflex aluminum piece something stronger?
-Nick
I got my Teraflex disk brake kit from DC.. Great Price.....
I currently have the Currie HD steering set up.. Am going from 4" to 5.5 and am wondering if the goforit TR flip will do it for me... EricsXJ.com has that set up to.. Currie and goforits...
you can only flip the tie rod side so it will never be too far out of the way of the rocks.
for the money its best to buy all the parts (tap, reamer, TREs, jam nuts, and tube) and make your own. You can choose your own material and make it as thick as space allows.
Also if you happen to bend it (because you cheaped on the material or drive like an idiot) a new tie rod is only an hours work away....
i had the teraflex aluminum crap too.....mines also bent all to hell.
aroncull said:
I got my Teraflex disk brake kit from DC.. Great Price.....
I currently have the Currie HD steering set up.. Am going from 4" to 5.5 and am wondering if the goforit TR flip will do it for me... EricsXJ.com has that set up to.. Currie and goforits...
not so sure about it bending easy.. i put it on myself and well.. its huge. And for the price it was great: $100 + old PDA i had laying around so about 160$ i guess.. [if i where to spend $400 i would have gone up and went the ORO.. or some other option, just to also make your point...LOL]
Also its still better then stock, but clearly i am considering a different route due to higher lift and i want to keep my steering very nice and solid etc.. Guess il contact Eric and see how his is working.. seems like even the flip will only fix part of it..
Also the Tera kit came with aluminum tie rod? thats....crazy.
If you don't need to improve your steering angles because of large amounts of lift; then there is absolutely nothing wrong with the Currie steering. It's a very solid system. And I'd recommend it in a second. For bolt on stock steering replacement, it's simply the best system out there.
That is an option. Though I prefer a thicker wall tube. And the tube adapters don't have as much thread engagement as I'd like. Doesn't take much more effort to have the DOM Tapped for whatever TRE you are gonna use.
If you don't need to improve your steering angles because of large amounts of lift; then there is absolutely nothing wrong with the Currie steering. It's a very solid system. And I'd recommend it in a second. For bolt on stock steering replacement, it's simply the best system out there.
I'm at 6" lift with the Currie and the driver side is flipped with the GoFerit inserts. I have no complaints with how it handles both on the road (with 35's) or off-road. With the improved angles on the drag link, I also have zero binding at full flex. Shocks limit my droop, not the steering and I unseat the coils a good 2 or 3 inches. With the driver side flipped, the tie rod has more clearance than most other aftermarket steering systems other than a full high-steer setup (passenger side flipped). And it is cheaper than most also. Based on those factors, I don't really feel the need to change my steering to anything else. Maybe if / when I get a new front axle, I'll go with a true high-steer.
You also asked about the passenger side TRE... it can't be flipped due to the bends in the drag link. If you use a stock drag link off a RHD cherokee you can flip it, but it would not be worth it because of the major downgrade in strength going from the Currie drag link to a stock one.
you can only flip the tie rod side so it will never be too far out of the way of the rocks.
for the money its best to buy all the parts (tap, reamer, TREs, jam nuts, and tube) and make your own. You can choose your own material and make it as thick as space allows.
Also if you happen to bend it (because you cheaped on the material or drive like an idiot) a new tie rod is only an hours work away....
i had the teraflex aluminum crap too.....mines also bent all to hell.
i just delivered some bent currie steering the other day to some one....super tuff!.....screw that
$400 is a waste for that crap. build your own using the teraflex ends you have and youll never look back.
that currie crap will bend, very easily too. any steering will bend if you hit it hard enough, at least building your own and having the tools to do it will make it cheaper and faster than waiting for currie to ship you a replacement tie rod.
and the stock draglink is solid stock.......not bending that too easily and besides with the horrible inverted t design that currie re-uses your not gaining anything besides the abillity to keep your stock trackbar location.
currie crap would be eaiser by far....if your idea of easy is to shell out the big bucks to bolt something on.
find the size and thread pitch of the tera TRE and go to ebay and search for the tap......buy 3 of em so you always have a sharp one. get a snap on reamer head over to the metal shop in your town and get some 4340 tubing.
EricsXJ said:
aroncull,
And it is cheaper than most also. Based on those factors, I don't really feel the need to change my steering to anything else. Maybe if / when I get a new front axle, I'll go with a true high-steer.
If you use a stock drag link off a RHD cherokee you can flip it, but it would not be worth it because of the major downgrade in strength going from the Currie drag link to a stock one.
Well suit yourself - if Currie is not strong enough for YOU, then build your own, like you have. I've had no problems with it for the wheeling I do which includes trails like the Rubicon (and I have hit the steering before on several occasions without it bending). But I don't abuse my rig. If you are bending the Currie stuff that easily, then perhaps you should learn to pick better lines?
Not bagging on you, but you make it sound like the Currie steering is weak, which is highly subjective unless you put it in context. You say -
So are you saying you would rather run a stock drag link because it won't bend as easy as Currie's? :dunno: For 95% of the XJ owners that wheel their rigs, the Currie system is more than strong enough. It is also cheaper than most other aftermarket steering systems. Look at what the ORO U-turn costs...
...and besides with the horrible inverted t design that currie re-uses your not gaining anything besides the abillity to keep your stock trackbar location.
Actually its an inverted "Y" and while the Currie system retains this stock geometry, you do gain travel due to the improved angles at both ends of the drag link.
