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D44 Front Housing Finally, couple questions

jester1084

jester1084

NAXJA Member #1189
Location
Racine, Wisconsin
Like the title says, I finally got a 44 Front housing on the way out of a 79 F-250. I've read the 44 build posts over and over but I'd like some input to check to make sure I'm planning things right before I go and buy everythng. I'm just getting the housing so I'm buying everything from scratch. Also, I like to hear what you guys say about what you think would work better.

1: I haven't decided on the rear I'll get later. 6x5.5 or 5x5.5, I'm flexible so I'm waiting to see how the front goes and the parts I finalize on. Is either bolt pattern better than the other or is it really just parts availability and preference?
2: I plan on narrowing like Cruzin Illusion did in this build here Dana 44 Build. Long story short, custom width to 16.46" and 31.46" for inner axle lengths.
3: Tire size will be 35" and it will occasionally be driven on the road (when the GF steals the more friendly Jeep). I have a Clayton Long-Arm setup so I'll be keeping that.

Ok, so from there I should be able to start my list of parts. I tried to include links when possible. I'd really like to know what you think, what you would do differently, and if you think I'm forgetting anything.

Reid Racing Chevy or Ford Flat-top knuckles
Ford F-250 Spindle or Chevy Spindle
Wilwood Brakes
Moser Max 44 Shafts and 5-760x U-Joints
1310 Strap Yoke
ARB or Ox Lockerhttp://www.ring-pinion.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProdID=3329
5.13 Reverse Yukon Gears
Yukon Dana 44 Install Kit
Warn Hubs (P/N 20990)
TNT Customs High Steer
TNT D44 Truss Kit

Thanks for any constructive criticism or downright a$$ kicking. I'm always up for some reading and learning a little bit before I learn the hard way. This is going to be tough enough without any screw ups on a college budget as it is.

Mike (Jester)
 
Since your starting from scratch...buy some inner c's from dedenbeder for a 60 and scavenge some outer knuckles, 35spline arb....yada yada
 
Ramsey said:
Since your starting from scratch...buy some inner c's from dedenbeder for a 60 and scavenge some outer knuckles, 35spline arb....yada yada
Click to expand...

Maybe, but that brings up the cost even more. Of course I can understand following the increased strength. It's something to consider I suppose. Anything from anyone else?
 
jester1084 said:
Maybe, but that brings up the cost even more. Of course I can understand following the increased strength. It's something to consider I suppose. Anything from anyone else?
Click to expand...
Looks amost the same thing that I am going to be doing for mine in the next couple of months. I have heard bad things about the Moser shafts though, although, that was mainly for rear shafts.

I have mainly seen 5 on 5.5 instead of the chebby bolt pattern, and thats what I will be doing as my rear 44 has that .

Search around on the gears and install kits. Pirate has a huge amount of vendors that have really low prices.

For the Warn hubs, the best price I have found was:
http://www.thepartsbin.com/sitemap/warn~locking_hub~parts.html

Knuckles, you can choose what you want to do. Im going to either be doing Chebby outers if I can find them, and get them machined, or do Parts Mike.

As for the locker, I think I will be going with the ARB, as I havent really gotten a whole lot of responce for the OX. The people that have them love them, but they are more expensive, and sometimes seem to have a problem with unlocking.
Sorry about the cluttered responce.
 
Food for thought--I could not find a direct bolt-on rear rotor for my D44 that had a 5 on 5.5 pattern--and continue to use my current disc brake set-up (rotor thickness 1.00). I got married to the idea of using Ford rotors/hubs (5 on 5.5) in the front, which drove my need to match the rears. In retrospect, I should have stuck with the 6 on 5.5 pattern that Jeep/Chevy used--6 on 5.5 for the rears are easy to find.
Also, I'd use u-bolts on the yokes--stronger than straps.
 
xjbubba said:
Food for thought--I could not find a direct bolt-on rear rotor for my D44 that had a 5 on 5.5 pattern--and continue to use my current disc brake set-up (rotor thickness 1.00). I got married to the idea of using Ford rotors/hubs (5 on 5.5) in the front, which drove my need to match the rears. In retrospect, I should have stuck with the 6 on 5.5 pattern that Jeep/Chevy used--6 on 5.5 for the rears are easy to find.
Also, I'd use u-bolts on the yokes--stronger than straps.
Click to expand...
I have the Super 44 axle shafts in the back that are drilled for 5x4.5 and 5x5.5. I have drum brakes on the back, so I will just have a machine shop drill it out.
 
Personally I'm planning on a HP D44 and a Ford 9"... One thing I'm wondering about is brakes, the Wilwood kit you posted seems perfect for the D44, and the 11" Explorer kit also from Currie seems good for the rear.

Currie's site says brackets are included for mounting, so do they ask you what axle it's for when you order? I also think the Explorer kit will be easy to get new rotors and pads for, will the Wilwood kit be easy to get new pads and rotors too?
 
jester1084 said:
Like the title says, I finally got a 44 Front housing on the way out of a 79 F-250. I've read the 44 build posts over and over but I'd like some input to check to make sure I'm planning things right before I go and buy everythng. I'm just getting the housing so I'm buying everything from scratch. Also, I like to hear what you guys say about what you think would work better.

1: I haven't decided on the rear I'll get later. 6x5.5 or 5x5.5, I'm flexible so I'm waiting to see how the front goes and the parts I finalize on. Is either bolt pattern better than the other or is it really just parts availability and preference?
2: I plan on narrowing like Cruzin Illusion did in this build here Dana 44 Build. Long story short, custom width to 16.46" and 31.46" for inner axle lengths.
3: Tire size will be 35" and it will occasionally be driven on the road (when the GF steals the more friendly Jeep). I have a Clayton Long-Arm setup so I'll be keeping that.

Ok, so from there I should be able to start my list of parts. I tried to include links when possible. I'd really like to know what you think, what you would do differently, and if you think I'm forgetting anything.

Reid Racing Chevy or Ford Flat-top knuckles
Ford F-250 Spindle or Chevy Spindle
Wilwood Brakes
Moser Max 44 Shafts and 5-760x U-Joints
1310 Strap Yoke
ARB or Ox Lockerhttp://www.ring-pinion.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProdID=3329
5.13 Reverse Yukon Gears
Yukon Dana 44 Install Kit
Warn Hubs (P/N 20990)
TNT Customs High Steer
TNT D44 Truss Kit

Thanks for any constructive criticism or downright a$$ kicking. I'm always up for some reading and learning a little bit before I learn the hard way. This is going to be tough enough without any screw ups on a college budget as it is.

Mike (Jester)
Click to expand...

It looks like you are going to spend a ton of money on your D44. The parts you listed are all top shelf, and top dollar. I'm just about done with my front axle swap and I am about to start on the rear D60.

I used a HP D44 from a 79 F250 also, and I'm using the matching rear D60. I did not narrow the axles, I'm going full width, 8 lug.
Ford flat top knuckles off of ebay cost $45 + $40 to have the passenger knuckle machined, compared to Reid racing at $400.
I'm using stock ford dual piston calipers that came with the axle, and 17 inch wheels to clear the big calipers. Wilwood is way expensive. There are plenty of stock off the shelf brake setups you could run.
I went with Yukon shafts - $400
Yukon 5.13 gears $160
Warn premium hubs $76
Foothill Offroad has a build to order high steer draglink and tie rod for $289 TnT highsteer is at least $100 more.
Harsh Terrain has highsteer arms for $120 a set.
I also went with an ARB and I'm running 37 inch MTR's.
TnT's Trus kit is the best.

I'm just mentioning the prices because I think you could save some money. But if cost is not an issue for you, then by all means go for it.

Link to my build:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=397243
You have to be a registered user to see the pics, I think.

Anyway Good Luck with the swap.
 
Some tid bits of advice. I couldn't find any dana 44 that I really like and ended up spending way too much for something that I'm going to sell anyways. A dana 60 rear can be found extremely cheap and not too wide (65" wms to wms). You can easily backspace your wheels to match the track width of what you're shooting for and it might actually be better for your wheel bearings and such (however, it might place your hubs out in harms way if you go too far in). I made the mistake of thinking that a 60 was too expensive for me and overkill and pretty much put blinders on after that. Soooo....If I were to do it again, I'd grab an 8 lug HP 44 for the front and a 8 lug 60 rear and go with that (8 lug because it's expensive as hell to go to anything less on a 60....ie 6x5.5 or 5x5.5). I picked up a 30 spline 60 (ok, so not so great, but do a bit of work to it and you get 35 spline) for $125. Not so bad if you ask me. But definately go with ARB's or another selectable locker and the TNT truss is bretty bangin and what I'm gonna go with when I do the front again with a HP this time (TNT truss, Ballistic Fab buckets and lower mounts). Anyways, just food for thought.
 
Things are definately changing as I go about this. That was just an initial list and I'm really searching for little deals here and there. I already got a set of Chebby knuckles that I just had to get machined. So right there I already cut a couple hundred off the Reid Racing Knuckles. I've also decided to bypass the wilwood because that's just way beyond my budget right now. I'll most likely be going with the stock assembly for that. As for the rear, I still don't know what I'll be doing. I've already got the chevky knuckles so I'm going either 6x5.5 or 5x5.5. If I go for a 60 rear I could get some custom shafts, but that can get pretty expensive. Ford 8.8 might not be too bad, still working the rear out.

Edit: Never mind, looking at Mr.N's article I could run 8-lug with the cevy knuckles. Maybe I'll have to consider that now too.

Mike
 
Sierra Drifter said:
Warn premium hubs $76

I'm just mentioning the prices because I think you could save some money. But if cost is not an issue for you, then by all means go for it.

Link to my build:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=397243
You have to be a registered user to see the pics, I think.

Anyway Good Luck with the swap.
Click to expand...
Where did you find hubs for the cheap? Cheapest I found was $95.
 
jester1084 said:
If I go for a 60 rear I could get some custom shafts, but that can get pretty expensive. Ford 8.8 might not be too bad, still working the rear out.

Edit: Never mind, looking at Mr.N's article I could run 8-lug with the cevy knuckles. Maybe I'll have to consider that now too.

Mike
Click to expand...

Just get a Full Float 60 and it'll be a crap load easier on yourself. Pretty sure bearings are the same as the front.....much easier and cheaper to replace than semi float bearings.
 
Starboard M said:
Where did you find hubs for the cheap? Cheapest I found was $95.
Click to expand...

Ebay. I watched serveral sets go for as much as $200. Then a set came up with an opening bid of $45 and I was the only one to bid on them. Just got lucky.
BTW: $95 is not bad. Have you priced them from Parts Mike, or Reid Racing, or Dedenbear?
 
Originally Posted by Starboard M
Where did you find hubs for the cheap? Cheapest I found was $95.

Sierra Drifter said:
Ebay. I watched serveral sets go for as much as $200. Then a set came up with an opening bid of $45 and I was the only one to bid on them. Just got lucky.
BTW: $95 is not bad. Have you priced them from Parts Mike, or Reid Racing, or Dedenbear?
Click to expand...

I'm an idiot, for some reason I thought you were asking about knuckles, but you were asking about the Warn Premium Hubs. Which I also got on ebay.
 
Sierra Drifter said:
Originally Posted by Starboard M
Where did you find hubs for the cheap? Cheapest I found was $95.



I'm an idiot, for some reason I thought you were asking about knuckles, but you were asking about the Warn Premium Hubs. Which I also got on ebay.
Click to expand...
Does it matter where you buy them to have them warrenteed? Say I buy them off ebay, can I bring them to a local shop and get new ones?


Thats a nice write up. Ill be saving that for when I start taking mine apart. Good job.:cheers:
 
Well, looks like I'll be going for a 60 rear out of a 78 F250. I have a line on one for like $75-100 depending how things go next week. Also I'll be getting Alloy USA shafts and those are drilled 5x4.5 and 5x5.5 so it'll be going to 5x5. I haven't looked yet but will be in a minute, offhand I can't remember if the '78 Ford D60 is full or semi float and what spline that is. But if it's the 30 spline I can modify to be 35 right? Eh, I'll be looking in a minute here.

Mike
 
91 Jeep Project said:
Full float will make it not cheap to ditch the 8 lug pattern.
Click to expand...

Yup, like $1300 not cheap. It's easier to just go 8 lug and not worry about it. I've found a few places that have 8 lug 15x8" wheels if you need a line on them.
 
53guy said:
Yup, like $1300 not cheap. It's easier to just go 8 lug and not worry about it. I've found a few places that have 8 lug 15x8" wheels if you need a line on them.
Click to expand...

Wheels I'm sure I could find eventually, but is there anywhere I can get custom length axle shafts for it? I'm planning on narrowing it down some.
 
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