Offset ball joints necessary?

Hey guys....

I searched but did not find a specific answer. I went to get get an alignment since I added my RE drop brackets and am sitting at 6" of lift. I was shooting for 5-6.5 degrees of caster. The guy showed me the pinion angle and it was not quite parallel to the ground but close. It was also at 1 degree caster. This obviously made the ball joints sitting almost over top of one another and needed to have the pinion pointed down toward the ground further. However, doing this will make my driveline vibe more (slightly does it at 60-65) since it is already at a steep angle compared to if the pinion was adjusted upward. He said he could use offset ball joints to allow me to keep the pinion where it was but be able to get the 5-6.5+ degrees of caster I need....does this sound right? I thought offsets only allowed you to adjust camber. The posts I have read never mention offsets when mention caster. My camber is of since I have a worn lower one anyway and since I have to replace it I figured I would replace them with offest and fix my camber and caster issuses. Does this sound good or should I be able to put in stock ball joints and still be able to adjust caster where it should be and also make the driveline be happy. Thanks for your expertise in advance.

People use offset balljoints to adjust caster all the time. It's definatly a viable option. Other people adjust the uppers to look for a "happy medium" between pinion angle and caster, and stay with fixed balljoints as they are just a hair stronger.

I did the happy medium for a long time, now I've rebuilt my housing to have the best of both worlds (rotated my knuckles for 11* pinion, -6* caster)

X2

http://www.madxj.com/MADXJ/technical/TECHNICAL.htm

thanks for the reply, Cal. I am thinking of going with the offsets.

Thanks Reddog!

I'm running around 6" of lift with short arms, no drop brackets. I installed 2 degree offset upper balljoints 4 or 5 years ago, and got a definite improvement. I had the alignment checked on a rack 3 years ago, and it came out to dead on factory specs. There's a bit of an operating angle at the axle end u-joint, but not bad.

Thanks chixJeff. WHat brand did you use and what did they cost ya? I looked at some specialty product ones and they are $150 per side. I am assuming moog would be a reputable company....if I'm not mistaken, Napa uses moog and puts their name on them but not 100% sure. Anyone have any suggestions on what companies to go with as far as quality? The guy at the shop uses some company out of Minnesota but I don't know the name.

I know I paid a small fortunate (more than I should have.) May have been Specialty Products. 4 or 5 years ago while I was living outside of Chicago.

I'd have no problems if the parts say Dana/Spicer or Moog.

Here

RockAuto has them for 65.00ea (upper or lower)



SPICER Part # 6154000 .6154001,6154002,6154003

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php


SPICER Part # 6154000 {Professional Grade Front Suspension Ball Joint}
Front Camber Offset Ball Joint; Plus Or Minus 1/2 Degree Of Change; Repl OE Uppr Bl Jnt To Provide Cmbr/Cstr Chng on Prev Non-Adjst Vhcls; Use w/ Installation Sleeve Set; Use w/ Available Ball Joint Press
Upper;Offset Ball Joint Replaces OEM To Provide 1/2 Degrees Positive(+) Or Negative(-) Camber/Caster Change
Front Caster Offset Ball Joint; Plus Or Minus 1/2 Degree Of Change; Repl OE Uppr Bl Jnt To Provide Cmbr/Cstr Chng on Prev Non-Adjst Vhcls; Use w/ Installation Sleeve Set; Use w/ Available Ball Joint Press
$64.79 $0.00 $64.79

I bought mine from NAPA and have a couple of used ones I removed when I did a complete rebuild but, I would have to look and see what degree they are.

Comanchedude.....thanks, pretty cheap and a reputable company.

Did you ever think of ditching the low pinion d-30 in favor of a high pinion d-30?That would lessen your front ds angle...but you would still have to do something about the caster i.e offset ball joints.Only other viable option on the lp is to have the c's turned
Your front ds angle has got to suck with the lp d-30.....

Outlander....thanks for rubbing in the fact that my DS angle has got to suck Just kidding, yeah, it's not the best. What makes it worse it that is is already that steep and only at 1 degree caster. So not only do I have slight vibes now at 60-65 MPH but I wander on the road. To get it where it needs to be (5-6.5 degrees) will make the DS angle even steeper. I think I am going to go with Spicer 2 degree uppers and Moog 1 3/4 degree lowers.

I guess I'm missing something here. My '88 with 6 inches of lift had 5 to 6 degrees of castor (measured at wheel alignment shop), before and after installing lower control arm drop brackets. I don't understand your the loss of castor. If your upper and lower control arms are correct length, your castor should still be good. Do agree that your drive shaft angle will be bad at 6 inches of lift, especially running a low pinion shaft. Having a disconnect front axle and a high pinion solves that problem, since drive shaft misalignment is not noticeable on the trail at lower speeds---as long as the u-joints don't bind.