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oil pan removal

B

BAMCHEROKEE88

NAXJA Member #976
Location
Lancaster,PA
Need some quick tips on breaking the oil pan free. All the bolts are out and have been hitting it with a dead blow hammer around the entire pan. If the jeep where high enough off the ground I could do pull ups while hanging from it and it still wouldn`t move. All this and yet the seal leaks.
 
stock gaskets turn into the strongest glue known to man over time. I had to take a small flat bladed screw driver and hammer it in all the way around bout every half inch or so, then pry it off.
 
No, just jack it up far enough that the front axle hits "full droop," and you can slide out to the rear.

I've found a stiff putty knife to be helpful when breaking OEM oil sump gaskets/seals. I've even gone so far as to grind one down to about a 1" long blade, and deburr the ground edges and round the corners off (to prevent gouging) just for this sort of job. Comes in handy.

You should be able to use the later one-piece moulded gasket when you reassemble - I haven't yet (I'm too used to the four-piece, but I'll try one next time,) but reports from the field are quite good!

5-90
 
I did get the pan off with a stiff scraper. The problem know is that the upper portion of the rear main seal will not come out and I have damage the seal. I t now must come out. Any ideas.
 
The rear main used on the AMC242 is of two-piece construction, rubber over a metal core.

To remove it with the crankshaft in place, you'll want to get a short (about 4-6",) thin (about 3/16"-1/4") brass drift or punch and lightly tap the end of the upper seal half on the end. This should allow you to drive it out far enough to grab the other end and pull it loose.

While you're doing all of this, you should have the new seal soaking in clean engine oil - this not only allows you to install it easier, but also lets it "seat" more quickly (due to being more pliable.)

Slip the new upper half into place, and slowly push with the brass drift. NO STEEL SHOULD TOUCH THE CRANKSHAFT! (Yes, that's all caps. Yes, there is a reason...) Properly installed, the new seal should protrude only slightly on both sides of the crankshaft - it "crushes" against the lower half to seal at the ends.

5-90
 
That is what I am doing but the brass punch sunk into the seal a little, seal didn`t move. I am now trying to use a piece of brass rod i have which is heaver then the punch (It is thin). Still will not move.
 
It's going to sink - it has to hit the metal core, first.

If you still have trouble, loosen the next two main caps a few turns, this will allow the tailend of the crankshaft to dip a bit (you don't need much.) Then, try the drift again.

Don't forget to put assembly lube on any bearings you disturb - this includes the two you loosen. Do them one at a time, so you don't have too much crankshaft unsupported.

5-90
 
I had the same problem. I used a hair dryer to heat the upper seal and it came right out without having to loosen any other crank bolts.
 
When I did the rear main on our 90 it was the same deal. The worst part of the whole job was getting the old top seal out. You just have to be persistent. A brass drift pin and hammer. It will come out eventually. Also, you probably already know this, but make sure when you put the new one in make sure it is facing the correct direction.

HTH
 
I got the rear seal finally out and the new one installed. I tried heating it with a heatgun- didn`t work. I removed 2 more bearing caps- didn`t work. I then tried the heatgun again and presto it slid out and the new one slid right back in. That is as far as I got today. Tomorrow install new pump and new pan seal . Just hope I can get the pan back up and in. I tried putting the pan back up and in to keep anything out of the bottom but no go. Oh well will start again tomorrow morning.
 
BAMCHEROKEE88 said:
I got the rear seal finally out and the new one installed. I tried heating it with a heatgun- didn`t work. I removed 2 more bearing caps- didn`t work. I then tried the heatgun again and presto it slid out and the new one slid right back in. That is as far as I got today. Tomorrow install new pump and new pan seal . Just hope I can get the pan back up and in. I tried putting the pan back up and in to keep anything out of the bottom but no go. Oh well will start again tomorrow morning.
Click to expand...

keep us posted - these types of issues, although really not fun for you are REALLY REALLY helpful to everyone else who tries to replace an oil pan!!

thanks in advance!
 
I will give updates, etc. Next weekend freeze plug!!! I found that the front one on the drivers side is starting to leak. Gee this getting fun.
 
Got it back together and fired her up and Bang Bang Bang. Something is hitting , it is hollow sounding like the oil tube is rattling against the pan. Ran out of daylight so it looks like my boss is not going be happy when I tell him I will be taking off a day or two this week.
 
Try driving it out with a small brass or aluminum rod. Want the rod OD to be slightly smaller than the seal OD.
 
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