• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Any tips for RE hack and tap SYE?

Kejtar

Kejtar

PostMaster General
NAXJA Member
Location
Westminster, SoCal
yeah... I know I should have gotten the HD one but... no extra $$ and no time to really do it right so lets leave it at that...

Anyways, I have a 98 with 8.25 rear, and probably between 3" and 4" of lift (it's 9.5" from teh top of the axle to the bottom of the framerail where the bumpstop mounts). I'm expecting to have to cut off the piece of the shaft, do the regular drill tap routine... but what else? I currently have a 1" tcase drop (or actually rusty's crossmember with the 1" drop) which is there to stay till I get time to do something different and I got 3* shims... Am I to understand right that the diff has to point it's outpput (input.. whathave you) right at the tcase? anyone with simliar setup? I'm hoping to get this taken care of this weekend as my tcase has picked up CRAZY whine (or actually not tcase but front shaft I think)...this happened from me having to add 1/4" spacer to the tcase to temporarily get rid of vibes from the longer leaf pack went in to replace the sagging (and wrapping/s shaped) stock with AAL

Kejtar
 
You do know you will need a new driveshaft don't you? You do want to keep the angle as low as possible (I have heard 2* or less standing still). I have the RE 4.5 with that same SYE, no problem...not even using transfer case drop.
 
yup... I'm getting the whole shebang... the yoke and the shaft.... The transfercase drop would go away if I had a good crossmember that was sturdy enough (got two stockers that are bent out of shape.... might make something out of it sometime later... or fix up the rusty's one for more clearance).
Jump This, do you have any shims in the rear?
Kejtar
 
I can't realy tell...looks to be only a few *s, but don't know for sure...sorry. Call RE and ask...they MIGHT know (not the top notch company all the time if you know what i mean)
 
Jump This said:
(not the top notch company all the time if you know what i mean)
Click to expand...

I really hope you're wrong right now. I'm about to call them and ask them to send me a new flange 'cause mine is f-ed up. I've had it on since ~October and it's got quite a bit of play in it now. See my "back from tellico with problems....rear axle woes...." thread for more details.

Ary
 
I'm running the RE 4.5" full packs with 1.5" shackels and 2* degree shims for my Hack and tap SYE.
I longest part was cuting the output shaft, it took roughly 2 grinding wheels to get it off.
 
I,m at 3+ inches and used a 6* shim to line things up.The output shaft was only hardened on the outside .We had the output running when we cut it off,went real fast with air grinder and cutoff wheel.
Becareful when you tap the hole.
Wayne
 
I'm running the RE SYE & shaft and same rear lift as Dazz but I've got 6* shims (which is what RE suggested I use). I still have a 1" t-case drop from when I was at 3" of lift. I'll probably remove it at some point, but for now everything is smooth and running great.

As for a tip? Be sure every inch of bare skin, including your face is covered when you're making that cut...
 
oh, and let the damn cat cool down before you try to do anything down there. I burned the crap out of both of my hands today:( Can you tell I'm not having a good day?:rolleyes:

Ary
 
oh... I know that already... I have left so far (working on other things) close to a square foot of my skin (running total)... the upside is... it grows back..... :D

Kejtar
 
When I was cutting the shaft, I had the engine running in reverse and I gotten a little burnt from the exh. manifold. (doh)
Yeah, cover your neck, face, and nose from all that debris when using the cut off wheel. It will make you itch or even give you some bad metal splinters.

Since my XJ is an 91' (used the RE 1801 SYE kit), I had a minor TC fluid leak. It was later fixed with some RTV gasket though. :)
 
KetchupJar.... :)

The cutting of the shaft was easy... a small frame power saw (not a big worm drive monster) and a metal cutting blade was what i used. As described above, when you are ready to cut, start the enging, put tranny in reverse, and the shaft will spin in the correct direction relative to your cutting instrument. This will give you sort of lathe type of cut. Apply even pressure on the saw and go for it. It took me less than a minute to cut the shaft.

For the hole, get about a 1/8" titanium bit for your pilot hole. Work up another step, before you drill your final hole. Be sure to go deep enough so that the bolt won't bottom out too soon in the hole.

Use a tap wrench, not a crescent wrench to spin the tap or that will spell certain disaster (read broken tap). Take half turn cuts, and back out to clean burrs. LOTS of cutting oil. Most important, take your time with this part so you don't break a tap.

It took me a little over an hour from start to finish, even with installing new shims. I wound up with 6 degree shims when it was all said and done. I have 6" of lift with shackles (which will rotate the pinion up).

Good luck!

Ivan
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

L
Manual to Auto transmission swap
Replies
9
Views
205
lvcanyoneer1
L
X
Making the frame purdy
2 3
Replies
49
Views
786
Bent
Bent
E
RE CONTROL ARM DROP BRACKETS?
Replies
8
Views
1K
EastonTexas
E
X
Drop Brackets to fix bent frame mounts?
2
Replies
31
Views
275
Bent
Bent
N
Leaf Spring Options
Replies
2
Views
119
nrparrott
N
Back
Top