90 XJ Ignition stays hot

I just bought a 90 with some ignition issues I hope some of you won't mind sharing a bit of your expertise. I realize I may be dealing with multiple issues - trying to narrow it down.

SYMPTOMS:

Key will not turn ignition off. You can operate the ignition fine and can take the key out but it stays running.

Key will not turn starter over

Currently there is a starter button hanging by the pedals which was added by a mechanic shop troubleshooting the issues - it works, this is how we started the motor.

Oil pressure gauge pegs, other gauges work fine

Possible linkage issues with steering column/auto trans - sometimes won't come out of park

OBSERVATIONS:
Poor fitting wing window, different colored steering column and rebuilt/restored title indicate this was probably a theft vehicle that was hot wired in the past.

This was used as a daily driver since then, and was recently parked after it wouldn't start. A mechanic said it needed a wiring harness because it had been "spliced into previously". I no longer believe it needs a wiring harness.

Any suggestions or guesses on what could be keeping the ignition hot, or why the key won't turn it off and won't turn the starter over?

Mr4 said:

I just bought a 90 with some ignition issues I hope some of you won't mind sharing a bit of your expertise. I realize I may be dealing with multiple issues - trying to narrow it down.

SYMPTOMS:

Key will not turn ignition off. You can operate the ignition fine and can take the key out but it stays running.

Key will not turn starter over

Currently there is a starter button hanging by the pedals which was added by a mechanic shop troubleshooting the issues - it works, this is how we started the motor.

Oil pressure gauge pegs, other gauges work fine

Possible linkage issues with steering column/auto trans - sometimes won't come out of park

OBSERVATIONS:
Poor fitting wing window, different colored steering column and rebuilt/restored title indicate this was probably a theft vehicle that was hot wired in the past.

This was used as a daily driver since then, and was recently parked after it wouldn't start. A mechanic said it needed a wiring harness because it had been "spliced into previously". I no longer believe it needs a wiring harness.

Any suggestions or guesses on what could be keeping the ignition hot, or why the key won't turn it off and won't turn the starter over?

Click to expand...

It probably doesn't need a wiring harness for somebody with reasonable electrical rework skills. A shop doesn't wanna get into that but with a wiring diagram, it can be sorted out. Do you need a FSM diagram? I can email you a 1988 Renix (close enough) 3-4MB PDF file if you PM me and your email account can handle that size of attachment? There are also members who have them for download if you ask/look around.

Easy one first: the pegged oil pressure guage is normally a result of a failed sender. the sender is on the side of the block right behind the distributor- unplug the wire, screw out the old, screw in the new, reconnect- done.
The ignition issues could result from a worn ignition switch or out of adjustment ignition switch (bottom of the steering column- not the key cylinder). Sounds like you also have a worn key cylinder. For the starting issue, I recommend some thorough trouble shooting on where there is/is not power, rather than throwing parts at it. You need a wiring diagram to help with this.

Thanks for the info. DrMoab said he thought the oil pressure issue was a sender as well.
I'm not an electrician, but believe i could follow a wiring diagram pretty well if I took my time. I just hope they didn't mangle too much when they worked on it - it looks like a bowl of spaghetti under the dash.

The source of the problem was/is in the steering column. I pulled the ignition switch off and manually operated it and was able to turn the starter over by doing this.

There is a rod that runs from the ignition lock area, along the top of the column shaft to the ignition switch which mounted on top of the shaft under the dash (have to drop the steering column down to get to it)

You can adjust the ignition switch by loosening 2 bolts that hold it in place and sliding it to or away from the steering wheel. The bolt holes are slotted to allow this. I tried this but it would not adjust far enough, so I used a pair of vice grips to bend the "Z" in the rod a little more to effectively shorten it. After fiddling with it for a few minutes, we dialed it in so it starts and shuts off ok.

However, it feels a little wierd when you turn the key. Since this was likely a theft recovery due to the different color jacket around the steering column, I believe there may be some issues in there as well.
**It may be possible to adjust the rod in the top of the column near the steering wheel, instead of bending it like I did. But since we didn't have a puller on hand to remove the wheel, the vice grips sufficed for now.

Now, to tinker with the linkage from the steering column to the auto trans shifter - still having issues getting in and out of park.