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WHAT is front axle vaccum ?

G

generalleexj

NAXJA Forum User
Location
virginia beach
hey guys ive seen alot of posts on this. and i just had a question. please excuse my NOOB question but what EXACTLY does these vaccum hoses do on the front axle ??? i mean i know where it is and what it looks like and everything, but i would just like to knwo exactly what it does. i have a 6.5 lift on my jeep now and they wont reach ? do i NEED them or should i replace them with longer rubber ones ? thanks in advance, and please bear with me on this DUMB question. thanks alot guys... matt
 
The right side axle shaft is a two-piece shaft with a sliding collar that can connect them (in 4WD) or disconnect them (2WD). Chrylser stopped using the disconnect on the XJs in 1991, so you can simply remove the vacuum tubes and block the ports, then manually shim the disconnect so that it's always engaged.
The procedure has been written up in the past.
 
doing it the above way means the front end would always spin but wouldn't be 4 wheel drive till you engaged it in the transfercase.the new XJ's i think starting in 89 or 90 run this way but don't use a two part shaft on one side.you can also get a kit that uses a cable to pull the fork over to engage the front end instead of vaccum which is the best solution.but to get by you can extend the hoses or replace them with longer ones.and no if you don't do something your 4 wheel will not work
 
Another option is to find a newer D30 w/o the disconnect and swap axles.
 
another solution, and a very common one, is to use an axleshaft from an axle that does not have the vacuum disconnnect (non-disco) and replace your 2-piece shaft with the 1-piece and make a cover to block off the hole where the vacuum acuator would be... as an immediate fix you could probably re-route the vacuum harness to gain a lil more length to work with.. or as pointed out before you could get a cable operated acutator (called a Posi-Lock) that installs a small lever up in the cab of the vehicle to manually connect it if you chose to keep the 2 piece shaft...
 
No, another option is to put a spring on the shift fork in the housing and leave it like that.

That's what i'm doing, a feild repair the still works.
 
Hate to admit this but , I couldnt afford a Pos-Lok so I ghetto styled my vacum lines , was really simple just bought some hard plastic tubing barely bigger then the current ones and put a piece inline with each line and then used heat shrink for making sure it wouldnt leak. Just make sure you use tubing as hard as what is already there (soft tubing will collapse because its being sucked)
 
I just extended mine. Don't invest any more money in the D30 unless you plan on sticking with it for a while. It works great for me as is, but I am going to be swapping in a D44 here soon... My D30 has seen way too much air and I am really asking for it!

(License Plate)
"IF YOU CAN'T STOP, SMILE AS YOU GO UNDER!"

90 XJ 4.0L I6 Auto
11" Lift, Rustys Longarm Kit, OTK Steering, 4.56 Gears, D30/Ford 8.8, Eaton E-Locker (rear), K&N Cold Air Intake, 35X12.50 BFG MT KM's on Eagle Alloy 15X10's, 6-States Driveshaft, Cracked Windshield, tree damage, oxidation...
Inland Northwest Adventures.com
ELKWA02052005-JUMP.jpg
 
generalleexj said:
alright guys i think im gonna extend em up. thanks for the adviec.
Click to expand...
Actually I liked striptides suggestion and a plate over the old vac hole. That eliminates other issues that vac disco have that have a nasty tendency to show up when you need 4wd the most...
 
When I converted my VD axle to a one piece shaft I had to use a different seal to seal it up on the outside of the vacum housing. I even used the old vacum housing as the cover plate. It has worked great, and have had zero problems since doing it.



Patrick
 
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