12 Pack Fab Works latest project- '90 XJ, 5.0 V8, Dana 60s

cccj · Oct 1, 2004

We jokingly named our shop 12 Pack Fab Works, but it seems to fit the bill as that is what we usually charge for labor. Steve owns the shop and we are working on his '90 2 door XJ currently.

Suspension-
He had narrowed high pinion Dana 60s front and rear before with a Tomken 5.5" lift. The uppers tore out of the frame mounts, so we then we built some long arm lowers(1.25" sched 80 pipe) and an A-arm upper(1.75"x.095" hrew), ditching the track bar, for a 3 link. On the last trip he bent a lower, broke the upper and ripped the crossmember off. :? So we just finished the latest suspension design with a double triangulated 4 link and a new crossmember. This time all the links are 1.5"x.250" dom with the lowers sleeved with 1/8" HPDE plastic for better rock sliding.

cccj · Oct 1, 2004

Some updated pics of the suspension:

I am going to build a center bumpstop under the oil pan. It will be a tube between the motor mounts with a snubber in the middle.

cccj · Oct 1, 2004

For the drivetrain Steve decided he need to retire the '90 4.0L and go with something he had from another project. It's a Ford 302 GT40 crate motor, SVO prepped AOD auto trans and then we built a flipped Dana 300 for the tcase. For now it has Holley ProJection fuel injection with a DUI distributor, but as soon as we get the bugs worked out, we are installing a stock 5.0 Mustang fuel injection/ignition system for better tuning and reliability.

We plated the frame rails for the motor mounts and steering box, then built motor mounts and tweaked the firewall for header clearance.

hjeepxj · Oct 1, 2004

:drool:

Thats badas$...:cheers:

Economos · Oct 1, 2004

Sweet... sweet indeed.

juicexj24 · Oct 1, 2004

I just watched the GT40 show in Discovery channel and reading this, drool all over the place. Pretty sweet. Might be time to bring out the 389ci Tri Power for my next project. Juice

JeepFreak21 · Oct 1, 2004

Very interesting... another front 4 link, huh? I hope Beez chimes into this one :shhh:
Billy

JeepFreak21 · Oct 1, 2004

No trackbar and no hydro assist or hydro steer? Have you tested this out yet?
Where'd you get the "HPDE" by the way?
Billy

cccj · Oct 1, 2004

JeepFreak21 said:
No trackbar and no hydro assist or hydro steer? Have you tested this out yet?
Where'd you get the "HPDE" by the way?
Billy

It's not finished yet, it may still get one or the other. We have a ported CJ box for assist, but don't want to make a custom steering shaft; and Steve is waiting for a reply on a used orbital valve. For now it's going to have the stock box. On the last design with 3 link upper wishbone it worked fine, but I know this is a different story.

Secret supplier for the plastic. I'm trying to become a dealer. I got lots of 1.5"x1/8" HPDE. Need some? I asked about UHMW, but for the price difference thought I'd try this first.

YELLAHEEP · Oct 1, 2004

Looks cool, but I'm having a hard time seeing how there ISN'T gonna be a problem with those arms being in the way of the drive shaft....... It looks like the drive shaft would overlap the left - lower control arm - could that bind up when flexed upwards and the right side droops down?

JeepFreak21 · Oct 1, 2004

cccj said:
Secret supplier for the plastic. I'm trying to become a dealer. I got lots of 1.5"x1/8" HPDE. Need some? I asked about UHMW, but for the price difference thought I'd try this first.

I was just curious really (and storing the information away for future use), but let us know how it works out.
Billy

cccj · Oct 1, 2004

YELLAHEEP said:
Looks cool, but I'm having a hard time seeing how there ISN'T gonna be a problem with those arms being in the way of the drive shaft....... It looks like the drive shaft would overlap the left - lower control arm - could that bind up when flexed upwards and the right side droops down?

The D300 is clocked up high enough(stock position in pic) that it misses the lower link. It's works out nice, because the link acts as a skid under the driveshaft.

YELLAHEEP · Oct 1, 2004

cccj said:
The D300 is clocked up high enough(stock position in pic) that it misses the lower link. It's works out nice, because the link acts as a skid under the driveshaft.

Cool, can't wait to see some completed shots.

jlake1 · Oct 1, 2004

Hey,
I too have a 5.0 in a 90XJ. I'd love to see some shots of your motor mounts, and how you "tweaked" the firewall. I did my mounts by coming off the inside of the framerails @ ~ 60 degree angle to the block plates. Then I came off the bottom of the framerails and gusseted back to the 60 degree tubes.

I never could get the stock headers to fit. Have to run truck manifolds.

Thanks,
Jay

MrShoeBoy · Oct 1, 2004

There doesnt seem to be any vertical seperation between the upper and lower links at the frame end. I was under the impression that you wanted some seperation there for a decient instant center and anti squat. Or at least make it adjustable so you can tune it.

AARON

cccj · Oct 1, 2004

jlake1 said:
Hey,
I too have a 5.0 in a 90XJ. I'd love to see some shots of your motor mounts, and how you "tweaked" the firewall. I did my mounts by coming off the inside of the framerails @ ~ 60 degree angle to the block plates. Then I came off the bottom of the framerails and gusseted back to the 60 degree tubes.

I never could get the stock headers to fit. Have to run truck manifolds.

Thanks,
Jay

For the firewall we had to dent in the corner under the gas pedal for the header/collector to clear. The motor mounts are tube bushings with 1.5" tube to 2" angle on the block. I am still not quite finished with them, as I am going to bend a 1.5" crossmember under the oil pan connecting the short tubes. It will also act as a center bumpstop.

cccj · Oct 1, 2004

MrShoeBoy said:
There doesnt seem to be any vertical seperation between the upper and lower links at the frame end. I was under the impression that you wanted some seperation there for a decient instant center and anti squat. Or at least make it adjustable so you can tune it.

AARON

I know the accepted way to do it is with a lot of seperation on both ends of the links, but we choose to do it this way for space and strength reasons. It's about the only place to go for room for exhaust.

Oh and some of the guys on PBB are doing their rear like this, so it must be alright. :sure:

BrettM · Oct 1, 2004

cccj said:
I know the accepted way to do it is with a lot of seperation on both ends of the links, but we choose to do it this way for space and strength reasons. It's about the only place to go for room for exhaust.

Oh and some of the guys on PBB are doing their rear like this, so it must be alright. :sure:

it will handle just like a radius arm setup, which most people are pretty happy with. Except it won't bind like a radius arm.

Jeff 98XJ WI · Oct 2, 2004

Why won't it bind like a radius system? Looking from the side, it basically looks like two long triangles. When one droops and the other compresses, the axle will be trying to twist in opposite directions. Now, since they are also triangulated from the top, that probably plays into the equation, but my feeble mind isn't able to figure out how. Care to explain it like if you were talking to a 10 year old?

Jeff

jjvande · Oct 2, 2004

I think it will bind...

it takes 3 mounting points to define the position of the axle...add a fourth and it will bind UNLESS the arms are parallel. I think... :rof:

the give in the joints may be enough to prevent damage...

12 Pack Fab Works latest project- '90 XJ, 5.0 V8, Dana 60s

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