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alright short and sweet..242 tranny..97 with aw4..do i have to cut the output shaft down??iam having a custom driveshaft made..can i just tap the output shaft and install the flange??or is there a reason why you need to cut the shaft shorter for stength,degree angle,etc.??all input and knock knock jokes well help my better judgement>>>ready for commets||charles||
part of the benefit of getting an SYE is a longer driveshaft, resulting in less of an angle on the u-joints. since you're getting a shaft made, you might as well do it right!
Cut it. It isn't that hard. I put mine in rev. at idle, used a angle grinder w/ a cutoff wheel. Cut a bit then let the shaft cool. cut, then cool. it took 3 passes doing this and the shaft was cut to the correct length. I am sure there is a reason they tell you to cut, maybe less stress on the shaft I'm not sure. but like he said if your getting a custom shaft you might as well do it right.
i see no reason to have to cut the shaft when end to end legth is at my mercy..the driveshaft iam getting is double jointed at the output shaft...||charles||
Sure that is true. The whole reason for the SYE is to get a shorter shaft, hence a longer drive shaft to cut down on angle. If you dont cut, and just put it on. then you still gonna have the steep driveshaft angle even with the CV shaft. This will cause you to rotate the pinion up on the axle severly, which could cause improper lubrication inside the pumpkin. but thats just my opinion. Even with the longer drive shaft on mine I still have 4* shims in.
i currently have 6 degree shims but with 9in lift...no issues..but angle on rearend is ??dont wont to get dry bearings..i droped the shaft and i have 2 in left for flex.on out put shaft..for driveline to go in and out...the most important ? is with double jointed drive shaft should i worry about cutting shaft???is it weaker with the extra length or not..why does re say hack tailshaft when your gonna have one built for end to end legth??||charles||
it's weaker if you don't cut the shaft. That's a lot of leverage at an angle to the shaft, so the shorter it is the less likely it will be to bend/ break.
whats the point of even installing a SYE if you don't want to shorten the shaft? the problem is not with the slip yoke. the problem is with the vibrations caused by the short drive shaft at a steep angle. a SYE/CV shaft helps the vibes by doing two things. 1) it lengthens the driveshaft therefore reducing the angle and 2) it uses a CV joint so each u-joint only sees half the angle. if you want to be an idiot and place lots of extra stress on your output bearings and only get half the benefit of doing a SYE, its your money so go for it. it sounds like you already have your mind made up. if its too much of a hassle to cut the shaft i'm really surprised you're up to tapping the shaft either. maybe JB weld will work instead.
ok about time..1}there is no vibes..ok thats issued..2}the shorter the shaft the less stress on the bearings..iam game..iam up to cutting the shaft,it just dosnt make sense to cut if your gonne add dual joints for angles at the top of the driveshaft..i would think that would end strees issues on the bearings..exp and tools isnt the issue here..just a wonder ??..||charles|| ps i love jb weld in my coffe in the mornings..thanks
if you have no vibes and don't need extra driveshaft length then you are wasting your money on a SYE.
the dual u-joints don't have anything to do with the stress on the bearings. from the factory the the weight is distributed along the full length of the slip yoke. if you hang it from the end like you're wanting to do you are putting ALL of the weight on the very end of the output shaft.
OK, maybe this will help with the reason a shorter output shaft is less stress, not the CV DS. Say you take a hammer that weighs X lbs and put it at the end of a short handle and hold the handle at the end. No big deal. Now, take the same hammer weighing X lbs and put it at the end of another handle that is longer and hold it at the end. The hammer on the longer handle will feel heavier and put more stress on your hand/wrist. Shorter output shaft (handle) less stress on the output bearing/TCase (hand/wrist). The steeper the angle on the driveshaft (lift height) the axle attached to the driveshaft is still going to exert downward pressure on the end of the output shaft thus causing more stress on the output bearing. Take a rod, lay it flat on a fulcrum and spin it. No problem. Take the same rod, put downward pressure on one end and spin it without allowing the opposite end to move outside of it's circumferance. The pressure will be on the fulcrum (output bearing) while the rod at the fulcrum turns at an angle without being allowed to turn outside of it's spot, so the shaft will develop a weak spot in the shaft until it breaks and grenades everything in it's way. Shorten the end of the rod until it is as close as possible to the fulcrum, and it is many times stronger and will warp less.
GottaBeJepp...double extra points for you bud..nice way to put it that makes graet sense...as far as you SARVEMR.iam sure if your xj is lifted this well twist you..i see all xjs like this..the rear diveshafts around 2 -3 inces forward on the rearend in quarter panel..i have already drilled mine centered so the rear 2in drop shackles dont interfair..my rear end sits center in the body..does yours...a happy jeep has a happy owner..||charles||
as far as you SARVEMR.iam sure if your xj is lifted this well twist you..i see all xjs like this..the rear diveshafts around 2 -3 inces forward on the rearend in quarter panel..i have already drilled mine centered so the rear 2in drop shackles dont interfair..my rear end sits center in the body..does yours...a happy jeep has a happy owner..||charles||
GottaBeJepp...double extra points for you bud..nice way to put it that makes graet sense...as far as you SARVEMR.iam sure if your xj is lifted this well twist you..i see all xjs like this..the rear diveshafts around 2 -3 inces forward on the rearend in quarter panel..i have already drilled mine centered so the rear 2in drop shackles dont interfair..my rear end sits center in the body..does yours...a happy jeep has a happy owner..||charles||
Sorry Charles, I read this thread because after installing the hack n' tap last Feb, I thought that perhaps i might be able to offer you some insight. However, I must say that I am not even sure what you are asking, let alone how i might be able to help. I don't even remotely follow what you are trying to say in the above quote, or how your "rear end sit[ting] center in the body" could possibly relate to a hack n' tap. I can only offer this, do the kit exactly as the instructions tell you to do it. It was designed and engineered that way, (hopefully by certified engineers) and it bloody well works perfectly as intended. I had some initial fears about whether the output shaft would be weakened by cutting, drilling and tapping, but they appear to have been unfounded. If you are spending the money on the kit, then by all means do the dang thing right.
Buck :canada:
Charles, this may be the interent and such, but please try and use semi-decent English.
There are a lot of old pharts on the boards that would be a heck of a lot more willing to give you some input if you would write coherently.
As far as the SYE and DS go, think on this.
The longer the output shaft, the more stress on the bearing. A shorter lever arm will create less stress. You may think that your t-case is doing okay at 9" of lift, but you are doing damage to the t-case. Take a good look at your output bearing when you do the SYE and you will most likely see some pitting and damage.
