Installing add-a-leaf, this look correct?

Well, my rusty's kit is in and will be installed, God willing, this weekend. I wanted to make sure I had a handle on the install, without reading their directions, just to make sure I have the concept down. Now, aside from the brakes, does this look right? :

Jack up rear end:
Use 2 chocks on the front tires.
Jack up the rear end on one side.
Remove tire.
Lower onto jackstand.
Repeat last 3 steps for other side.
Using a jack and 2 more stands, raise body to access bolts.
Remove U bolts.
C-clamp the spring pack.
Remove center bolt of pack.
Keeping c-clamp on, remove leaf clamps.
Remove c-clamp.
Clean springs, replace pads,insert center bolt, restack springs.
Place add-a-leaf on top.
Place springs back on axle.
Raise axle until spring pack compresses.
Tighten down nut on center bolt. (20 lbs)
Reinstall Ubolts. (30-35 lbs)
Install new leaf clamps using a c-clamp to hold springs together if nessesary.
Put the tires back on.

At what point do I install the new rear shocks, or does it matter?

i dont really think it matters, just put them on before the tire goes back on. probaly put them on after the aal, you wont have to compress them as much.

Gotcha. They're hydraulic shocks, so compressing them wont be hard, but I'll keep that in mind.

Did you get the long AAL? Maybe I am reading your post wrong, but it reads,
"...Clean springs, replace pads,insert center bolt, restack springs.
Place add-a-leaf on top.
Place springs back on axle."
The AAL does not go on top of the pack. The long AAL goes under the main leaf with the bushings. Just wanted to bring that up just in case.

I want to be sure you understand the jacking part. Remember, you're going to be disconnecting the axle from the vehicle. When you jack it up, you place the jack stands under the frame rails, nut under the axle. Leave the floor jack under the differential to control the axle.

The brake hose on the driver's side is rather short. Be very careful that you don't over-stretch that when doing the AAL, especially when working on the driver's side. I'd recommend disconnecting it, but that will require that you bleed the brakes when you connect it up again.

You may not be able to tighten the nut on the center pin if you put the axle back in place first. I use the c-clamps to pull all the springs into place. Then I can put a vice-grip plier on the head and tighten the nut. Once the axle is dropped over the head (or, rather, once the head is dropped into the axle) you have no way to hold it.

Gotcha, modifying my instructions

Thanks for the tips! They may come in handy soon!

For what it's worth - RE recommended torque for U-bolts is 65-80; they also recommend checking all bolts and torques after 100 miles (yes, some of mine loosened), and again after 1000 miles.

Wow, that's more than double than where I read at go-jeep. Thanks!

Yep - I installed my kit (RE AAL, ect.) a few weeks back, and the torque setting for the U-bolts didn't sound right, so I called them, and that's what they gave me. I've read that lower settings may help articulation, but will leave that up to one of the more experienced on this forum...(read as, you may get lower recommendations)

Remember that Go-Jeep is in Australia and they use the metric system. A couple steps can be eliminated on aal install. I found it to be rather easy leaving the main leaf attatched to the vehicle. Do one side at a time. Jack stand under the unibody frame rail. With floor jack supporting axle and tire removed. Remove spring pack clamps, u-bolts and center bolt. Now lower axle to relaxed position and your spring will fall apart with main leaf hanging on its own. Restack with new leaf and center bolt. Raise axle with jack and compress springs together. Tighten center bolt and cut off. Reinstall spring clamps, u-bolts and tire. Move to other side. Note: This is also when you install shims if needed.

I was helping Chuck install his rear axle and we tried to torque the U bolts to 80 ftlbs and things started to bend. He got the U bolts from Napa.

Neil

just finished adding a leaf to my 4 1/2" pack from rusty about an hour ago added 2"...
i have longer shocks ...so i let the axle hang from the shocks...
chok both front wheels...
i used a floor jack to lift the rear and then slid the jackstands under the frame... lowered the axle a bit, to relieve pressure on springs...
removed u-bolts on both sides...clamped the pack , then removed the pin...slowly loosen the clamp...added the new leaf above the bottom one...(they should be in order from the shortest on the bottom to the longest on the top...)align the holes and slid the pin through a new 5 degree shim( i had a 3 in before) tightened the nut on the pin...
did the other side and reinstalled the u-bolts...
btw now is a good time to loose the rear swaybar if you haven't done so yet...and remember penetrating oil on everything

1994 FSM calls for the spring u-bolts to be torqued to 52 ft-lbs. The factory bolts are 12mm (a hair smaller than 1/2" -- don't ask me how I know).

If you got enough c-clamps, it makes things go alot easier if you clamp all leaves ABOVE where you are palcing the AAL, that way you have osmethign to drop the center pin in that you know is right.