What to chop?

Just sitting here trying to figure out what to chop. This isnt the jeep that I'm gonna chop(yet) but it was the only picture I had of the side of either jeep. I will also through in the original picture if any of you have any good ideas. I just cant decide between no top or partial top. Also have some rust on the drivers side of my new project. Anyone had to fix anything like this?

Gotta love Paint!

Alan






jeep cancer, the rest of the vehical looks clean except the drivers side piller. It obviously has been in a wreck and then fixed.



^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^my feet^^^^

Oh yeah! Original picture!!

I like the idea of the first pic. As you know it rains here 10 months out of the year.

staticrevolution said:

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This is the one I'd do. You loose too much structural integrity doing anything else, and even with this one, a cage is manditory. You can cut the top off completely, but frame bracing and tons of work are needed, plus topless wheeling sucks in the winter. Do a search fo Rev Den and (I think) Paul S. They both have chopped backs, and one or both of them have made a sort of tonnou (is that how you spell that?) cover for the cold/rainy months.

Bracing is the absolute most important factor when contemplating a chop. How much and where you chop will depend on the amount of bracing required to add rigidity.

Steve

Ok I think I have decided. I think that I am going to chop the top from the windshield back. Structural integrity isnt a major concern because I am going to cage the whole thing. The only reason I am going this direction is because I want to build this one light for sand blastin and other summertime fun. I already have my DD for comfort/winter 4Xin and I just want something simple. I wanna sling some fullsize ford axles and a 5.0 ford drivetrain(I think) and then just hardwire lights and whatnot. I dont plan on making this thing street legal ever. How simple can I go on the engine as far as wiring and sensors and whatnot? I would like to run fuel injection and I dont mind computer control but I just need to be able to figure out how to hook everything up and I dont know engines at all. Will I need to tub the drivetrain tunnel?

Willis I have been reading alot of suspension threads lately trying to decide on how to set this thing up. I think I am giong to run leaf springs in the rear for simplicity and then go with a triangulated 4 link in front to eliminate the panhard rod. I want to start from scratch as in a stripped body and am curious to see if there is anyway to help the limiting factor: the XJ itself. I havent decided but I am pretty sure I am going to get rid of the front fenders and then chop/buggify the rear end to make way for larger tires. I want to run at least 35's with only about 3 inches of lift but I still want it to articulate liwell. I plan on running a fuel cell up and out of the way of the rear suspension. ANY THOUGHTS?

Alan

5.0 is a great engine. There was a TOTW (topic of the week) on 5.0 swaps on PBB. I'd check that out. Lots of good info. The 5.0 is very easy to hook up. It will require custom motor mounts. I really doubt you will have to modify the tunnel, but even if you have to, it's really not much of a point if you have the fab skills to build a cage, etc, the tunnel mods will be easy.

The XJ front is very tought to make a true 4 link work. You will see Beezil used a parabolic (wishbone type) setup to clear the oil pan. Matt up in Gold Bar, WA has a wishbone and I know he wouldn't mind if you stopped by if you are up in the area sometime to check it out. The XJ platform is very difficult to correctly build a link suspension. In the rear, you end up going though the rear floor area to mount your upper links, if you decide to link the rear.

To fit 35s on 3" of lift, might as well get rid of your front fenders and go full width axles so the front tires don't hit the inner fenders. In the rear, lots of trimming, or better yet, with good fab skills, cut off all the sheetmetal from the rear doors back (or the front doors back ie Mark Hinkley), and make some sort of flat bed with tons of fender clearance.

Justs FYI, I know where to get a HP D44 with discs for about $350 complete if interested.

Start here:

Very interested, got any more info gears mounts etc? I like the flatbed idea. I keep thinking I might have to settle for a radias arm/2 link with a panhard rod instead of a 4 link. Sure would be easier to take from the paper and make it work. I've read of problems with radias arms however it seems as if I keep the links level at ride height that it wont be so bad. I dont really need proper steering when the jeep is airborne. Just messing around. I think I will look further into 2 link designs.

Just the Idea of doing a wishbone suspension makes me a little nervous, I am not sure why. I guess because I have never seen on in action.

Still might be nice to keep some of the rear sheet metal but I think I will save that project for a two door.

Thanks for the ideas!!

Alan

I think the gears are 3.54 and it is the standard Ford radius arm mounts that are welded on (axle vintage of 75-77, which are the most sought after D44s).

FarmerMatt has got a Ford radius arm setup that works well for him. For a cheap beat-on-me rig, it's probably the cheapest and easiest route to go.

I can check on the axle to see if it's still available and get more info on gears and if he still has the radius arms for it (so you can just modify them to work).

Steve

Thanks Steve that would be GREAT!

Alan

can someone show me how to post a picture? I'm having trouble here. Thanks.

Vid_guyKC said:

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To post a pic from the net, you need to post . The "/" symbol is the code to end the pic (or whatever you are doing ie: for bold text, "[ b ]" starts the bold "[ /b ]" ends the bold see . Just leave out the spaces within the brackets).

Steve

Hey that thing looks wicked good! I am liking that idea for maybe my daily driver/winter rig. I think I am gonna keep the windshield back for this one but I certainly dont planning on keeping just two XJ's around HA. I need to build a jeepspeed one also(two door)! I think with this new one I am going to keep things simple and stick a 2wd axle beam in front and build a long arm front suspension. Then put a 302 and 5 speed tranny straight back to a 9" rear end. Still just ideas but this is the way its looking. I already have a 4wd for mud and trails now I want a high horse 2wd so I can bomb around the sand dunes and catch lots of air! Still interested in that Dana 44 Steve if you find anything out. Take care!

Alan

Hey this question is for you Steve.

Do you know what manual transmission was used behind the Mustangs 5.0 or for that matter, automatic? I have been looking through lots of 5.0 stuff and it looks like my best bet its an 89-92 mustang HO 5.0 but everything anyone writes pertains to keeping 4X4 and swapping in jeep trannys and the like. I just want to run 2WD do you think a mustang tranny will be tuff enough, that would keep cost down, also what in the world do two wheel drive trannys use at the rear, I've never even owned one? Just a standard output yoke? Anyways if you have the answers to this thanks!

Alan

Most 5.0 Mustangs will use the T-5. For a mild build on a 5.0, it's plenty tough. If you plan on running 500 horse, may need to step up and replace the gears with straight cut gears that are much stronger. You'll probably be fine though. There are some Cobra trannys with lower first gear ratios. I don't know all the specifics though.

All of those trannys use a slip yoke on the output just like our transfer cases come stock. To what I know, there isn't any type of slip yoke eliminator or any thing to get rid of this.

An auto will be a AOD (AODE?). They are not known for being the strongest. The OD gear is the week point. If you don't need OD, just get a C4.

I'll try to get over to check on that 44. Depends on how I'm feeling (I came home early today with the flu).

Steve

Here's another chop I found over on SNORT:

So, you are goint to make this thing 2wd? If thats the case, are you going to keep the 4wd front axle or install a 2wd one? I will have a 2wd front from a Comanche within a week.

CRAP DUDE!!! I just spent 135 bucks today getting an axle beam! I tried to source one but everyone was either ignoring me or didnt have one. If you can still get this one I can take this one back if you can make me a better deal. I will probably need the steering knuckles but I will probably replace the bearings and brakes etc. Let me know if you can hook me up. In a case like that I would drive the doors and flares to you!

Alan

I tell you what, bring me the old 4wd front axle, doors and flares and you can have the 2wd axle and Humvee grill guard. I will have the truck sometime this next week. I still need to go get the truck, I will let you know when it arrives