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Plugging rear brake line for axle removal

G

GoBig06

NAXJA Forum User
Location
SF Bay Area California
So in order to save money on labor costs of regearing my axles I'm in the process of removing them. The front axle removal went fine. The rear axle removal seems pretty simple and I've got it pretty much ready to pull but I have no way to plug the rear brake line. I have the Chrysler 8.25 axle and I cant seem to get the "T" shaped brake line adapter to plug up. I've tried using a sandwich bag and rubber band to try and seal it but it just keeps leaking through. I can't seem to find much info for plugging brake lines because when ever someone asks the question online they get chewed out for not being safe and possibly liable for criminal charges if they cause an accident. Well I need to plug my brake lines to keep my master cylinder from going dry, not because I'm too lazy to fix my rear bakes. Any tips?
 
You could shove a nail in the hard line but I don't really see much problem with letting it run dry anyway. Seems like a good time to flush all the old fluid since you will absolutely need to rebleed anyway. Add in an extra 10 minutes to bench bleed the master and you're golden.
 
The letting a system run dry Problem is for abs systems. You don't want to introduce air into the abs pump. Since you are pulling a 8.25 you have no abs. Good to go.
 
I disconnect the brake line at the frame side and put a spare axle vent line that's a tight fit over it. Then I put vice grips on the vent line to keep it from dripping. I also use the axle vent line for gravity bleeding the brakes.
 
An old mechanics trick is to use something to press and hold the brake pedal down. Just wedge something between the brake pedal the seat that will provide pressure on
the pedal. Once set you can then carefully/slowly crack the rear brake line fitting and disconnect the line without letting the brake system run dry. Minimal bleed time is required during reassembly.
 
old line attached at splitter, one end in each end of the splitter on axle. big circle of tubing, nowhere for the fluid to go. I hate bleeding the master.
 
Bryan C. said:
An old mechanics trick is to use something to press and hold the brake pedal down. Just wedge something between the brake pedal the seat that will provide pressure on
the pedal. Once set you can then carefully/slowly crack the rear brake line fitting and disconnect the line without letting the brake system run dry. Minimal bleed time is required during reassembly.
Click to expand...
X2, although, I was taught to crack open a bleeder before pushing the pedal down.
 
I just use one of those vacuum line end plugs. You can get a box of assorted sizes pretty cheap, at your local auto part store in the Help Section. Just slip it over the end of the line, and you should be fine...
 
3/16 inverted flare plugs.
 
I put foam ear plugs in mine and they work great to stop leaks.
 
electrical taping a zip lock bag to the end and then locating the brake line end up higher up near the frame rail pointed up (not hanging down) has always worked for me.
 
A trail fix I've used a few times is to plug it at the proportioning valve by putting a bb between the fitting and the valve. I always let some bbs roll around in my jeep somewhere just in case I snap a brake line.
 
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