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axle-side swaybar relocation

ehall

ehall

NAXJA Member
NAXJA Member
Location
Southern Maryland
With all the OTK talk, I'm interested in getting info about the various options for moving the swaybar brackets on the axle.

I know about the Synergy brackets (link). With those they want you to cut the curly-tip off the stock bracket and then weld the new ones against the nub. Looks pretty strong and it gets everything out of the way.

I've seen other pictures of people who welded some kind of plate to the inner C of the knuckles.

Just looking for some ideas.
 
I've used the JCR relocation mounts. Seem to be sturdy enough, but since they aren't hard located to anything I managed to install them offset by about 3/16" which makes re-pinning the disconnects difficult.
 
I don't. I have only installed them for other people.

They weld to the coil bucket though. Fits good, very strong, probably weigh 12 pounds each.
 
The Tera flew brackets are listed as
Dana 30 Swaybar Mounts - sold as a pair.
on their website, but then have listings for right and left side?
at 50$ each side, thats a bit expensive..
 
I didn't say it was cheap. ;)

The JKS ones are way cheaper, but nowhere near as beefy.
 
Teraflex sent me the install PDF, this is a picture from that. Seems to set on the inner C then wrap around the coil.

TeraflexSwayBarBrackets_zps57b20898.png


I've seen that bracket elsewhere. It looks nice.
 
Synergy looks like the only one that can be installed without removing everything, in fact they want you to keep the old swaybar nub and weld onto it, while the others require removing the steering or coils (at least). Synergy is 3/8 inch steel so its pretty strong. Also the cheapest at $26.

The rest are either 1/4 or 3/8 thickness and except for Teraflex they are in the $40-50 range

All of them seem to put the mount about even with the upper ball joint, except the Teraflex which is mounted on top of the knuckle and starts at the upper balljoint then goes up some more.
 
Just Ordered some synergy ones through Poly. shipping was 8$. discount too for pirate I think. 10% ? weird, it said shipping was 7$ then they charged me 10$?
 
Year later, bought and installed the Synergy brackets today, they go on simple and look like they will work great, cheap too but price is for one so you need to order 2x for a pair

Synergy_Swaybar_Relo_Brackets_Nude.sized.jpg


Traced a line straight up and cut the ear

Stock_Swaybar_Bracket_Cut.sized.jpg


Had a guy in the local club weld the synergy bracket to the remainder of the stock bracket and to the axle tube. Since the stock bracket has a strength bend down the center of it, there is a large area to fill all the way around, makes it super freakin strong

Synergy_Swaybar_Bracket_Weld.sized.jpg


Ends up being 2-3 inches higher than stock, not in the way of anything

Going to try to install the flip tomorrow if possible, and will post up if there's any interference
 
Finished installing today, only issue is when the steering is turned full driver the TRE adjuster ends up behind the synergy bracket, and then can't turn back.

Installed, lots of room, tie rod is up high, mission accomplished!

Goferit_Tie_Rod_Flipped.sized.jpg


Jammed up when steering is stuffed driver side and try to come back

Synergy_and_ZJ_Adjuster_Stuck.sized.jpg


Tomorrow I will pop it free and then shave the corner of the Synergy bracket and ZJ adjuster so that they slide instead of jam. Long term I plan to change steering anyway
 
ehall said:
Finished installing today, only issue is when the steering is turned full driver the TRE adjuster ends up behind the synergy bracket, and then can't turn back.

Installed, lots of room, tie rod is up high, mission accomplished!

Goferit_Tie_Rod_Flipped.sized.jpg


Jammed up when steering is stuffed driver side and try to come back

Synergy_and_ZJ_Adjuster_Stuck.sized.jpg


Tomorrow I will pop it free and then shave the corner of the Synergy bracket and ZJ adjuster so that they slide instead of jam. Long term I plan to change steering anyway
Click to expand...

With a ruffstuff 1ton OTK steering I found that the synergy sway bar brackets did not work for my application. In order to keep a decent amount of turning radius I had to grind everything down behind the tie rod all the way to the coils basically.

Synergy brackets would interfere with the tie rod travel and I tried to figure out a way to make them work but nada. I paid to send them back and ordered the JCR brackets after I saw there should not be any tie rod interference.
 
Fixed this last night, sort of

Swaybar_Rub.sized.jpg


You can see that the stock swaybar link has a notch from the factory for clearance, whereas the Synergy link does not. The lack of a notch, combined with being further to the left, is what led to the problem. Easy fix is to cut a matching notch in the Synergy link. In my case we just rounded off the outside corner a little so that it could skip off instead of locking. Next phase will be one-ton off-set TREs, and I will see what has to be done to accommodate them.
 
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