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Cracked exhaust manifold repair

mako my day

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Aliso Viejo
My manifold was trashed. I was able to spend a day to yank it out to have it repaired.

The shop only charged me 115 for the weld repair. I was stoked.

It ill be back in my jeep tomorrow!!!!

Anyways, here is a pic of the repair. I can refer anyone that needs a welding job completed for cheap.


of course I'm kidding. this was my on trail attempt to fix the crack that was completely around the downpipe. New one is already in.
I should be in Moab.
 
If anyone is hesitant to replace their cracked manifold, don't be. It was actually a fun process. ( I am always hesitant to work on my engine)

Tough parts were working around my big front bumper, and finding the hidden bolts under the intake manifold.

Three big tips:
During reinstall-Thread in the lower bolts 1 turn , and set the intake manifold on top of these bolts. Then slide the intake right onto the alignment pins.

14mm Gearwrench, 3/8" wobly universal, and some good extensions saved me.

Cut the 2 bolts that connect the old exhaust manifold to the donut/downpipe. Don't need to screw around trying to unbolt those rusted/corroded pieces of shit.

I estimate it took me 6-8 hours. But I probably drank a 30 pack during it. I could do it again in 3.
 
If anyone is hesitant to replace their cracked manifold, don't be. It was actually a fun process. ( I am always hesitant to work on my engine)

Tough parts were working around my big front bumper, and finding the hidden bolts under the intake manifold.

Three big tips:
During reinstall-Thread in the lower bolts 1 turn , and set the intake manifold on top of these bolts. Then slide the intake right onto the alignment pins.

14mm Gearwrench, 3/8" wobly universal, and some good extensions saved me.

Cut the 2 bolts that connect the old exhaust manifold to the donut/downpipe. Don't need to screw around trying to unbolt those rusted/corroded pieces of shit.

I estimate it took me 6-8 hours. But I probably drank a 30 pack during it. I could do it again in 3.

Did you remove the air cleaner assembly?
 
So I found a crack in my exhaust manifold where one of the runners connects to the main tube. I'm going to weld it up, but was thinking of putting extra weld around all the other runners at the same connection. Do you guys think I'd be causing more harm than good?
 
So I found a crack in my exhaust manifold where one of the runners connects to the main tube. I'm going to weld it up, but was thinking of putting extra weld around all the other runners at the same connection. Do you guys think I'd be causing more harm than good?

I've welded up a few, The stock exhaust manifold is an alloy (almost stainless but not quite stainless), First thing is find something strong and immovable (I use an old "I" beam) and clamp the mounting surface flat (at numerous spots) before welding.

I use a combination of oxy/acetylene and MIG depending on the location of the crack, both work. Heat control is somewhat important, if you get it way too hot it may melt in globs, to cold and the weld isn't going to take. Cleanliness of the surface is always important for a good weld, bare shiny metal. Let it cool slowly, don't quench it, a soft finished product (in this case) is preferable to a hard, heat stressed and hardened finished product.

The first one I did (without clamping it down) flexed and I had some issues getting the bolt holes and alignment pins to line up. The third one I did ended up with a slight bow in the mounting plate, nothing drastic but it was there. Sometimes there is no telling how the heat is going to stress the metal. I don't have an oven big enough to stick one in to anneal/relax it.

One thing you might want to think about is welding a brace between the tubes just above the collector. My repairs usually last from 3-5 years, the longest lasting repair is still going after 7. The seven year repair was the one where I welded the cross braces between the tubes 1 1/2- 2 inches above the collector. Where that one cracked, it looked like the tubes were fighting each other (unequal length and heat) at the collector and that caused the cracks.

If the welded repair does fail, it is usually right next to the weld, which leads me to beleive, slow cooling (soft) is better than fast cooling (hard) The metal is likely to be harder at the weld edge from the heat leeching away faster at the weld edge. This is where an oxy acetylene torch may be better, you can cool it down slowly and gradually. The down side to a torch is it heats up a larger area and may add to heat flexing.
 
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I bought one of those APN stainless manifolds and it's sitting on my bench just waiting to go in... But I'm curious if it's worth adding some weld to it before it even gets installed. It's shiny and clean now and I could easily add some reinforcement to it while it's on the bench. Is it worthwhile to do that to a new manifold? I could run a vertical bead up from the "trouble area" up in between the two tubes to help them brace off each other a bit better... Thoughts?
 
I have a stack of cracked ones that came with engines I've bought sitting in the shed, so when I need one, I grab the top one off the stack, blast a fluxcore weld over the cracks, wire wheel the flange, punch out the cut off studs and tack weld in some 3/8" grade 8 bolts, then punch off the donut gasket and throw a new one on.

I haven't had one recrack yet, maybe I've gotten lucky.

e: and I actually winced when I saw that pile of boogers :laugh2: I drove my XJ with the header cracked 1/16" wide all the way around one of the tubes into the collector for something like a year and all that happened was I got crummy gas mileage and it'd idle bad once in a while.
 
One thing you might want to think about is welding a brace between the tubes just above the collector. My repairs usually last from 3-5 years, the longest lasting repair is still going after 7. The seven year repair was the one where I welded the cross braces between the tubes 1 1/2- 2 inches above the collector. Where that one cracked, it looked like the tubes were fighting each other (unequal length and heat) at the collector and that caused the cracks.

How thick was the metal you used to make a brace? Similar to header thickness or thicker?
 
How thick was the metal you used to make a brace? Similar to header thickness or thicker?

I filled some of the center where the tubing meets at the collector with weld to seal some cracks and then put in 2 MM (14 gauge) sheet metal bracing between the tubes. Actually a combination of filling and bracing. It seems to have lasted well, maybe just luck or maybe the filling and bracing did actually help some.

I ordered a new header because I'm down to one XJ at the moment and needed a quick fix, but it turned out to be the gasket. The old exhaust manifold is still good to go (no leaks or cracks) and is relegated to the top shelf in my shop as a spare.

I put in a Walker exhaust manifold, the fit was good, we'll see how it lasts. Around here the parts choices are kind of limited, especially if you don't have time to wait for special orders.
 
I filled some of the center where the tubing meets at the collector with weld to seal some cracks and then put in 2 MM (14 gauge) sheet metal bracing between the tubes. Actually a combination of filling and bracing. It seems to have lasted well, maybe just luck or maybe the filling and bracing did actually help some.

I ordered a new header because I'm down to one XJ at the moment and needed a quick fix, but it turned out to be the gasket. The old exhaust manifold is still good to go (no leaks or cracks) and is relegated to the top shelf in my shop as a spare.

I put in a Walker exhaust manifold, the fit was good, we'll see how it lasts. Around here the parts choices are kind of limited, especially if you don't have time to wait for special orders.

Ok, thanks. I'm going to try 3 16-18ga gussets between tubes 5 & 6. Also I'm going to knock down and smooth out the MIG welds with TIG. Hopefully it'll last...
 
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