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Fuel pumps: what brand?

anthrax323

anthrax323

NAXJA Forum User
Location
San Antonio, TX
My 2001 XJ has been suffering heat soak-related issues for a while now, so I'm looking to replace my fuel pump assembly given that it's almost certainly due to a failing check valve (did a leak test on the injectors and they're fine).

Now, I'm torn between these options:

  • OEM pump assembly, which is over $300 wholesale from the dealership.
  • Bosch unit from RockAuto
  • Carter unit from RockAuto
I've always had good luck with Bosch pumps, but the Carter unit is a complete assembly and is less than $200. From what I'm reading, Carter is a good name (and some suggest it's what Chrysler/Jeep used from the factory).

Thoughts?

P.S. - Save the fan timer and hood vent suggestions for another thread. I'm well aware of these bandaids, and plan on installing a fan timer eventually anyway. My XJ is about to roll over 200k so I'd like to replace the fuel pump anyway.
 
Here are my favorites:

1. Bosch (rarely have issues with this brand)
2. Carter (decent, but the check valves don't hold up all that well over time IMHO)
3. I don't have a third favorite. Refer to #1 and #2

Even though many parts stores carry Airtex as a low price point option, don't go there.
 
I would go with the Bosch.

One word of caution. I went to replace the pump on my '90 XJ and found that the new pump was too small to fit the existing pickup tube assembly. Make sure you buy the appropriate pickup assembly with the pump (and a new screen).

HTH
Todd
 
First choice: Bosch.

Second choice: Bosch.

Third choice: Bosch.

Heat soak is not related to a fuel pump issue. Test the fuel pressure, then test the fuel volume--if both are within specs leave it alone.

Heat soak resulted from a number of issues HEAT related--change to the intake manifold and changes to the exhaust/emissions.

Factory "fix" is a FOUL JOKE.

1. Locate an electronic delay timer.

2. Install the timer in the efan circuit.

3. Set the timer to run the efan for FIVE MINUTES after the ignition is switched off.

THIS IS STOCK ON A NUMBER OF LATE MODEL VEHICLES, but it would cost more than the 0.04 cents that Chrysler spent on the problem, and would have been far above at least some of their I.Q.s.
 
Thanks for the tips - I'll stick with Bosch.

RenegadeStang - is the check valve the pressure regulator described as being part of the filter?

And Joe - to better my understanding, wouldn't a failing check valve allow fuel in the rail to vaporize, leading to vapor lock?
 
The description of the Bosch pump leads me to believe that the check valve is indeed in the pump. It'd make sense that the pressure regulator would be in the filter.

From the description of Bosch 69316:

"Non-return valve maintains system pressure and reduces hot start problems."

Seems like it's just a pump and strainer though. Should I buy a new sending unit and filter at the same time, or can a complete Bosch assembly (drop-in) be found elsewhere? I'll take a look at the mentioned eBay seller's listings.

*EDIT* This looks like a complete drop-in assembly - amirite?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BRAND-NEW-B...ccessories&fits=Make:Jeep&hash=item53f2bd955d
 
Last edited:
There are actually 2 check valves. The primary one is in the regulator and the secondary one is in the outlet of the fuel pump. The one in the regulator is the one that fails more often and results in faster pressure bleed down.

I'd be careful of ebay listings. Sometimes they show a picture of the entire "fuel pump assembly" when all you are getting is the fuel pump. I am a fan of doing the whole shooting match (assembly) all at once. The ads for around $125 for Bosch are most likely not going to be the entire assembly; that generally costs around $300.
 
Ah-ha, gotcha. I wonder if the seller would give me an honest answer to that question. The part number differs from the pump/strainer combo on RockAuto, and Google seems to indicate the number they provide is the entire assembly.

Wondering if it's even worth risking, or if I should just go with a local dealership (with wholesale discount).
 
birchlakeXJ said:
There are actually 2 check valves. The primary one is in the regulator and the secondary one is in the outlet of the fuel pump. The one in the regulator is the one that fails more often and results in faster pressure bleed down....
Click to expand...

See, this is what I ran into when researching my pump issues. Information seems to be all over the place.

Regardless, anthrax323 you will want to get all your ducks in a row before you start. This job can be a pain in the @ZZ and you will only want to do it once.
 
birchlakeXJ said:
I'd be careful of ebay listings. Sometimes they show a picture of the entire "fuel pump assembly" when all you are getting is the fuel pump. I am a fan of doing the whole shooting match (assembly) all at once. The ads for around $125 for Bosch are most likely not going to be the entire assembly; that generally costs around $300.
Click to expand...

I just bought one last week and it is the complete assembly and comes with a new rubber seal for the hold down ring nut.

Call and ask for Romer he can verify the correct part number and check stock.

I also thought $120.00 compared to $300.00 is good to be true, I was wrong !

Did I mention Priority Mail too ? :worship:
 
dktool said:
I just bought one last week and it is the complete assembly and comes with a new rubber seal for the hold down ring nut.

Call and ask for Romer he can verify the correct part number and check stock.

I also thought $120.00 compared to $300.00 is good to be true, I was wrong !

Did I mention Priority Mail too ? :worship:
Click to expand...

Wow. $120 for an entire new Bosch fuel pump assembly? That is an outstandingly low price. I may buy a couple of them just to have them on hand......
 
Bringing this thread back now that my XJ is drivable again and vapor lock is once again pissing me off (I also have to prime the pump twice now to get a quick cold start, so it's getting worse).

Back to the fuel regulators: per the 2000-2001 FSM, there is only a single regulator. Section/page 14-1 to 14-2:

FUEL DELIVERY SYSTEM

DESCRIPTION
The fuel delivery system consists of:

  • the fuel pump module containing the electric fuel pump, fuel filter/fuel pressure regulator, fuel gauge sending unit (fuel level sensor) and a separate fuel filter located at bottom of pump module
  • fuel tubes/lines/hoses
  • quick-connect fittings
  • fuel injector rail
  • fuel injectors
  • fuel tank
  • fuel tank filler/vent tube assembly
  • fuel tank filler tube cap
  • accelerator pedal
  • throttle cable
OPERATION
Fuel is returned through the fuel pump module and back into the fuel tank through the fuel filter/fuel pressure regulator. A separate fuel return line from the engine to the tank is not used.
The fuel tank assembly consists of: the fuel tank, fuel pump module assembly, fuel pump module locknut/gasket, and rollover valve (refer to Group 25, Emission Control System for rollover valve information).
A fuel filler/vent tube assembly using a pressure/vacuum, 1/4 turn fuel filler cap is used. The fuel filler tube contains a flap door located below the fuel fill cap.
Also to be considered part of the fuel system is the evaporation control system. This is designed to reduce the emission of fuel vapors into the atmosphere. The description and function of the Evaporative Control System is found in Group 25, Emission Control Systems.
Both fuel filters (at bottom of fuel pump module and within fuel pressure regulator) are designed for extended service. They do not require normal scheduled maintenance. Filters should only be replaced if a diagnostic procedure indicates to do so.
Click to expand...
So, if I'm reading this correctly... There's only a single regulator, and it's in the fuel pump assembly?
 
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