Oil Adapter bolt torque specs

hey fellow trail friends was wondering what are the torque specs for the oil adapter bolts gonna change the seals in the oil adapter and wondering what the torque specs were thanks :smoker:

I believe it's 75 pound-feet per FSM, but I found that excessive for a screw made using powder metallurgy.

When I do the job, I'll fix the O-rings in place with RTV Black (a bit in the groove to hold it there, a bit on the surface to help seal,) and then torque to 35-40 pound-feet. Haven't had a leak yet.

The screw is standard machined steel, but the housing it goes into is just cast aluminum, so I dunno that you'd have any real problems.

You are probably going to have a problem getting a torque wrench onto the damn thing, it's really close to the frame rail, so I'd probably go with "pretty dadgum tight" or "3 grunts with the longest box wrench I can find."

i was asking because the engine is out and getting ready to swap into my jeep so i was curious what the torque specs were i cant seem to find it on Google nor do i have a FSM

oh, nice! I should have figured.

I guess you can actually torque it to spec then. I don't even see the spec in my 91 FSM, but 5-90 has never given me bad info concerning torque specs, or, for that matter, almost anything else.

so is it 75 foot lbs of torque?

kastein said:

The screw is standard machined steel, but the housing it goes into is just cast aluminum, so I dunno that you'd have any real problems.

You are probably going to have a problem getting a torque wrench onto the damn thing, it's really close to the frame rail, so I'd probably go with "pretty dadgum tight" or "3 grunts with the longest box wrench I can find."

Click to expand...

Did they change it? I actually broke one on a RENIX, so I had a chance to examine it where it had ruptured - the "grain" structure of a sintered part was clear.

And the filter "elbow" is aluminum, but it's threading into an iron block. The weak point seems to be the screw...

I'll have to look again tomorrow, but the one I pulled off a 94 didn't look like it was sintered. I also have one off a 91 sitting in a ziploc in the basement waiting to go into a genset project... will check that one too if I remember.

In either case, it's a rather large thread, 3/4-16 (like the later model year filters, iirc) or so, so I'd have absolutely no qualms about putting either 35-40 or 75 foot pounds on it. It shouldn't really matter either way, I'd be shocked if 35-40 doesn't completely compress the O-rings to the point that the aluminum boss around it is in solid contact with the block, at which point further torque has only two purposes, first, making sure the bolt doesn't come out by itself, and second, making sure it doesn't come out when you want it to, either. Careful application of Loctite will solve at least one of those, possibly both if you use the wrong color.

50 ft lbs per the 2000 FSM.

kastein said:

"pretty dadgum tight"

Click to expand...

I've found that backyard torque specs work best for me. I have one of the old beam style wrenches and I'm hard pressed to spend $100+ on a newer one.

Kasteins spec is about right. I also use "pretty tight" "pretty ****ing tight" and "tighter than s**t*. I weigh 190 and my arm strength is not what it used to be. So the tightest I can torque anything anyway without an air tool is ~225 fp.

I don't know of anything on my Jeep that I need that tight. I'm always good with pretty dadgum tight.