1988 XJ 4.0 Crank Pully Bolt

Hey,

Which way do you turn the crank pully bolt (to remove) on a 88 4.0?

Thanks

standard thread-- lefty=loosey / righty=tighty

Cool, thanks. Just checking.

3/4" socket.

cruiser54 said:

3/4" socket.

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impact.

you'll need some extensions to get at it though with an impact.

Shorty said:

standard thread-- lefty=loosey / righty=tighty

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A strap wrench to hold the pully can be helpful - the accessory belt usually doesn't give enough resistance. Either that, or wedge something in the ring gear teeth at the flywheel/flexplate.

If you need a replacement, it's a 1/2"-20 thread, SAE Grade 8, heavy hex head capscrew. Don't get cheap parts here - get something good!

Glad this was brought up. I had a nasty squeak and replaced the pully thinking it was the bearings. After some careful observation I noticed that there is a bit of wobble and the rhythmic squeaking is actually that wobble.

Any thoughts on how to fix that? JB weld in with the bolt to re-thread?

MauriceGOL said:

Glad this was brought up. I had a nasty squeak and replaced the pully thinking it was the bearings. After some careful observation I noticed that there is a bit of wobble and the rhythmic squeaking is actually that wobble.

Any thoughts on how to fix that? JB weld in with the bolt to re-thread?

Click to expand...

Which pully did you replace for bearings?

The crank pully runs on the main bearings, it doesn't have a bearing of its own. It's supposed to "follow" the crank, so excess wobble in that pully (at the hub, not the ring!) could be indicative of excess main bearing wear.

A common pully to have bearing squeal, however, is the upper idler pully - it's attached with a single through screw (usually,) and the bearing is about five bucks (a vice and a couple of sockets will replace it handily.) It's also available as an assembly, but those pullys are usually plastic - which is why I don't like using them (if you elect to do so, I'd like to talk to you about getting your old pully for an exchange programme I'm trying to run.)

However, when there's a bearing squeal up front, you're well-advised to spend ten minutes with a mechanic's stethoscope to try to isolate the sound. Once you think you've found it, unship the belt and turn the pully by hand to thoroughly isolate it (I keep about two feet of an old belt for this purpose - I'll wrap it around the pully and give it a yank - like starting a lawnmower - because that lets me spin it harder than just putting my fingers on it...)