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Relocating rear shock axle mounts (Questions)

D

Demolition_x

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Toms River NJ
I am having a hard time deciding how I want to relocate my rear shock mounts on the axle. I have installed shackle relocation brackets and now my shocks are a little too short. I was thinking about using just regular tabs and mounting them above the axle similar to this...

REAR2.JPG


Will I have any problems mounting them on top of the axle versus having them alternating on either side of the axle like the stock set up.

I heard that the stock mounts (alternating on either side of the axle) helps eliminate axle wrap but I am not so sure if it really effective or not.

If anyone has mounted there shocks above the axle like above is there any downsides?
 
I would imagine that shortening the stock setup changes the effectiveness of countering axle wrap.

But it is the way I have most often seen it done, and it is effective in reducing shock mount related hangups.
 
Demolition_x said:
I am having a hard time deciding how I want to relocate my rear shock mounts on the axle. I have installed shackle relocation brackets and now my shocks are a little too short. I was thinking about using just regular tabs and mounting them above the axle similar to this...

REAR2.JPG


Will I have any problems mounting them on top of the axle versus having them alternating on either side of the axle like the stock set up.

I heard that the stock mounts (alternating on either side of the axle) helps eliminate axle wrap but I am not so sure if it really effective or not.

If anyone has mounted there shocks above the axle like above is there any downsides?
Click to expand...

If you notice in the pic above, he is also running a traction bar so he doesn't have to worry about axle wrap. I think that the shocks mounted front and rear of the axle tubes do help somewhat, but how much depends on the type of shock used and leaf packs (stock vs aftermarket) and spring rate determined by the thickness and arch of the spring.

I think the more immediate concern with doing it above the axle is shock length. I had a hard enough time finding the perfect length shocks and mine are mounted level with the axle tube. If you don't have a generous amount of lift (6"+) you will need to use stock length shocks or as short as you can find, and/or angle them inward which reduces their effectiveness. And remember the shorter the shock you use, the less travel you will have.
 
I didn't even notice the traction bar so that is probably correct. Maybe tomorrow I will see how far I can raise up the stock mounts like on the go jeep site. Right now my driver side shock is fully extended at rest.
 
WB9YZU said:
I would imagine that shortening the stock setup changes the effectiveness of countering axle wrap.

But it is the way I have most often seen it done, and it is effective in reducing shock mount related hangups.
Click to expand...
It's actually a little more effective than the stock set up.

You're only shortening how far below the mounts hang below the axle tube but, by welding it back on where I did, it moves the shock OUT farther away from the axle and makes the shock more effective by way of leverage ;)
Demolition_x said:
.....Maybe tomorrow I will see how far I can raise up the stock mounts like on the go jeep site. Right now my driver side shock is fully extended at rest.
Click to expand...
It'll give you about 2" and if you add a bar pin eliminator (a good idea anyway) maybe another inch.

Make sure you check and limit up travel so, you don't damage your shocks.

Hans
 
Last edited:
When I installed my C8.25 I had the shock mounts flush with the bottom of the axle tube. Running about 3.5" of lift I now use stock length shocks.
Sounds like you want to use your current shocks. I would measure to see where you want them, cut the stock shock mounts off, trim as far as you need and weld in place.
 
Oatmeal said:
It's actually a little more effective than the stock set up.

You're only shortening how far below the mounts hang below the axle tube but, by welding it back on where I did, it moves the shock OUT farther away from the axle and makes the shock more effective by way of leverage ;)
It'll give you about 2" and if you add a bar pin eliminator (a good idea anyway) maybe another inch.

Make sure you check and limit up travel so, you don't damage your shocks.

Hans
Click to expand...

Thanks for clarifying that, I didn't recon on the added distance from the axle.

BTW: For anyone looking to do BPEs on the upper mounts, RC makes a nice bolt in BPE. I mostly see it listed it as a Wrangler part, but it will work. IIRC they are $20. http://www.roughcountry.com/install/1089.pdf

Demolition_X, looks good :)
 
WB9YZU said:
Thanks for clarifying that, I didn't recon on the added distance from the axle.

BTW: For anyone looking to do BPEs on the upper mounts, RC makes a nice bolt in BPE. I mostly see it listed it as a Wrangler part, but it will work. IIRC they are $20. http://www.roughcountry.com/install/1089.pdf

Demolition_X, looks good :)
Click to expand...
I've heard that you can use the rear swaybar axle side brackets as BPEs?
Never seen it done, though.
Might have to look into this because.......I'm cheap! :D

GoJeep has all kinds of cool ideas on his site!

Hans
 
Oatmeal said:
I've heard that you can use the rear swaybar axle side brackets as BPEs?
Never seen it done, though.
Click to expand...

did it on mine to make use of shocks I had collecting dust-- too easy.
remove sway bar mount, flip it over, bolt it where the shock mounts. You can even use the same bolt that attached the sway bar to the mount for the shock eye.
 
If I remember right though.... Don't the rear sway bar mounts turn the shock the wrong way when used as a bpe?
 
heres what i did if it helps anyone. just some hitch tubing to space it far enough from the tube and a grade 8 bolt.

IMG_1500.jpg
 
I used ruff stuff mounts. Technically they are in the wrong direction, but I moved them in so the shocks are more vertical, the rubber bushings give plenty. They are actually a little too long, and I will be replacing them with a shorter set after I do some shackle work. (Ranchos have a set that are 1/2" shorter with 1" more travel). A 9" travel shock in this position will effectively give ~ 14" of travel at the wheels.

20.jpg

21.jpg
 
VAhasnoWAVES said:
i could be wrong... but your losing a lot of the dampening effects of the shocks by mounting them that far inboard. especially if you take it on the road.
Click to expand...

You are right. The more inboard and the more of an angle they are mounted at the less effective they become.
 
VAhasnoWAVES said:
i could be wrong... but your losing a lot of the dampening effects of the shocks by mounting them that far inboard. especially if you take it on the road.


and i see you like to lube things libberally... lol.
Click to expand...

Yes and no. When the axle travels vertically (like hitting a bump on the road) it doesn't matter where the shock is located.

For leaning (body roll) or articulation the shock is "less effective" only because of the extra leverage placed upon it, but not really any less than stock (or not a noticeable amount)

You loose a decent amount with the shocks being angle, just as you do by in boarding them.

The benefits (for me) out way the losses. Running the shock in boarded allows me to use a much shorter shock, and still have all the wheel travel that I could ever need. The 8" shocks I have now are 15" collapsed and 23" extended.

To run a shock further out, that gave enough wheel travel I would have had to put them though the floor.

Also, the shocks look more in boarded than that are. a 14 bolts center section is huge, the upper shock mounts are in the stock location and the shocks are about 5 degrees to the outside on the axle.
And as far as the grease, you can't imagine how much noise leaf springs make with a spool in the rear.
 
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