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Rugged Ridge Steering Linkage Upgrade

It was super popular when it first came out. Then people used it. Now it's not so popular.
 
If you look at the photo you will notice that the TRE angles are flat... if you look at your D30 knuckles you will see they are not. If you buy it get used to buying TRE's. Currie has a good unit. More money, but a better unit that will be cheaper in the long run.
 
My jeep had it on there when I bought it. Tre's wear out quickly and they are not a standard item. You have to order them from rr. I now run the rustys steering otk. Very similar, but uses stock replacement tre's. I'm still wearing out tre's quick when wheeling it, so next week I'll be ordering this http://www.jb4x4.com/store/jbrsb.htm to lessen the angle on the drag link and eliminate the tie rod roll from the inverted t setup.
 
the RR is cheaper on Ebay from a dealer at 250 shipped.. I too maybe going this route due to cost,just be aware it may require tre shims to stop them from rolling as I've read and seen in similar kits.
 
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The kit was even cheaper when it first came out. Tons of people bought it and then realized that it sucked, especially with bigger lifts. It is not worth it. Don't do it.
 
Spend your money elsewhere there are several threads on here about the rr steering and problems. Not to mention if for some reason you have a tre breaks on a trail, will the parts store have a repacement for the rr steering? 3 out of the 4 tre's can be bought(not sure for what vehicle) but the 4th one is custom reemed. iirc. Just food for thought.
 
Some place a spacer/shim between the pass. tre and the knuckle to stop unwanted rolling left to right. There are other systems where this comes part of the kit. What I don't get, is that most of the tre kits arr almost identical and just use different styles/manufacturers tre so it's possible some of these systems inherit sone of the same issues, thus adding the spacer to their steering kit. As for me, drilling this large whole for the 1 ton tre doesn't look very strong imo in order to upgrade to a 1 ton system.
 
The RR steering flat out sucks. I ran it for 1 year & 2 wheeling trips. I had to replace all the TRE's at the end of that year. Just a wast of money. I got the Currie & loved it. Now i just run 1.5 X .250 steering links with my Hp 44.
 
Ok this is probably a noob ? What do u mean by tie rod ends rolling? My first order of business is to upgrade my steering. But there are so many companies and everyone seems to run different components. What is the best bang for the buck. I would like to go otk and 1 ton. It has to be street legal. I know some say currie dl and v8 zj tie rod, some say serious, and some say ruffstuff. I know with a lifted jeep the steering should be moved higher and the drop pitman arm to get closer to stock angles. I want a solid correct setup. I only want to do it once.
 
TRE roll happens with inverted T setups. As you turn the steering wheel and the draglink exerts pressure on the crossover tie rod, the bushing'ed tre will allow some play in either direction causing a momentary "dead spot" before the tie rod will actually force the knuckles to turn.
 
As far as steering on any solid axle, in my previous experience, crossover or true high steer are the only way to go. High steer isn't an option on the Dana 30, but with the jb4x4 bolt on bracket, crossover is. Waiting for mine in the mail. I've been running the rustys inverted t set up, but I wear out tre's almost every wheeling trip to the angle of my drag link. I'll report back as soon as I get it installed.
 
Ok so how many different types of steering are there for our xjs with a HP30. I have heard of y and t. Anyone care to elaborate. I don't want to get involved with high steer and all of that. I just want a solid setup that will last.
 
With a y system the draglink goes from the pitman to the pass. knuckle and the tierod hooks to it then goes to the driver knuckle. The inverted t has the tierod going knuckle to knuckle with the draglink running from from the pitman to just shy of the pass knuckle.
 
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