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Thinking of moving up to 33's but unsure.

HandBuiltXJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Oceanside, CA
Current xj specs.

4.7L stroker
AW4 auto
np 231 transfer case
HP D30 760x u-joints Aussie Locker
29spline 8.25 Aussie Locker
RE 3.5" superflex kit
bilstein 7100 10" short body shocks
Stock rims
31x10.5-15 cooper STT tires

Getting kind of bored wheeling this for past 5 years and looking at adding 1" of lift and running 33x10.5-15 on stock rims.
Questions..
1. will my axles hold up if I wheel conservitably and use finess?
2. Will those tires still tuck like my 31's do since they are the same width and only 1" taller in my fenderwell?

Thank you in advance for any and all inputs.

John
aka (HandBuiltXJ)
 
You should be good, and you don't necessarily NEED to add more lift for 33's.
Are you already geared? Or stock 3.55s? May want to regear if you step up.
The C8.25s are pretty beefy.
 
the extra diameter of tires with stock backspacing might leave some rub marks.
but otherwise you wont have an issue. I run the same lift and axles on 35's.
 
what year Jeep? The late model XJ's have a longer output on the T-case, sometimes mandating an SYE.

Are your fenders cut? If not, then maybe a bit of trimming will be needed.

Everytime you go bigger, you seem to open a can of worms that you not expecting.

Fore 'go big, or go bigger' Wheeler
 
I have been running 10.50” X 33”-15”s, on stock rims and 1-1/4" spacers, for several years and about 35,000 miles.
To make it dependable, safe and fun to drive, as a DD, I found the following.

If you still have stock gears, it's time for 4.56 gears.
Your stock brakes will suck, no matter what rotors and pads you run, plan on upgrading the fronts to WJ or Vanco brakes and maybe a disc brake kit on the rear too. I'm running the big 48mm Vancos and ZJ rear discs with a stock MC and it is greatly improved over the stock brakes.
I still have the flares, trying to keep it looking as stock as possible. Both the front and rear fenders needed additional trimming.
The front tires will probably hit in the wheel well. A little hammer work solved most of the problems. Adding a washer or two on the steering limiters will help too.
The bump stops need to be dropped since each wheel will travel an inch higher than the 31”s. You could remount the shocks to utilized the available extra down travel, regaining the lost shock travel that occurs when dropping the bump stops.

Since I have seen several stock D30 shafts, used with 33”s, break on the trail, I run alloy shafts in the front but have keep the stock 8.25 axle shafts.
To properly and safely upgrade, it can cost a lot of money so be sure this is something you need to do. The extra size and weight of the big tires stresses everything more so make sure the steering and suspension are in top shape.


What it looks like on 33”s.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lwade/4113762835/in/set-72157622830310636/
 
dual diaphram boster and good brakes adjusted correctly (rear) and good steel lines make a big difference. no problem stopping the 35's on stock stuff........
 
what year Jeep? The late model XJ's have a longer output on the T-case, sometimes mandating an SYE.

Are your fenders cut? If not, then maybe a bit of trimming will be needed.

Everytime you go bigger, you seem to open a can of worms that you not expecting.

Fore 'go big, or go bigger' Wheeler

As far as the year of my jeep... well, the chassis is an 85.

Fenders are not cut, do not have an issue with my 31x10.5.

I have the tom woods sye and drivshaft installed, yup, my shafts a woody.

the t-case and trans are 93.
 
I have been running 10.50” X 33”-15”s, on stock rims and 1-1/4" spacers, for several years and about 35,000 miles.
To make it dependable, safe and fun to drive, as a DD, I found the following.

If you still have stock gears, it's time for 4.56 gears.
Your stock brakes will suck, no matter what rotors and pads you run, plan on upgrading the fronts to WJ or Vanco brakes and maybe a disc brake kit on the rear too. I'm running the big 48mm Vancos and ZJ rear discs with a stock MC and it is greatly improved over the stock brakes.
I still have the flares, trying to keep it looking as stock as possible. Both the front and rear fenders needed additional trimming.
The front tires will probably hit in the wheel well. A little hammer work solved most of the problems. Adding a washer or two on the steering limiters will help too.
The bump stops need to be dropped since each wheel will travel an inch higher than the 31”s. You could remount the shocks to utilized the available extra down travel, regaining the lost shock travel that occurs when dropping the bump stops.

Since I have seen several stock D30 shafts, used with 33”s, break on the trail, I run alloy shafts in the front but have keep the stock 8.25 axle shafts.
To properly and safely upgrade, it can cost a lot of money so be sure this is something you need to do. The extra size and weight of the big tires stresses everything more so make sure the steering and suspension are in top shape.


What it looks like on 33”s.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lwade/4113762835/in/set-72157622830310636/

My front shocks bottom out even though i used the 2 inch bump stop in there, so i am hoping with another inch that will help move me farther from that.

Did you use the 1.25" spacers to help gane clearance for turning, or were you rubbing too bad when flexed?
 
you will have no problems... I just trimmed and I am running a Rough Country 3" kit (exactly 3", no lower no higher) and Treadwright 285/75/16 (measures 33.25" x 11.25" on a 16x8 soft 8 steel wheel) with a 250,000 mile engine and an automatic...

it actually feels like it has some balls in the city... but on the highway I run it in 3rd gear instead of D(rive) runs about 2200 RPM at 65mph on the GPS

my point here is your 4.7 stroker should just laugh at those tires...

but I see you have the aw4 trans... so most likely you have 3.07 gears (iirc) you might want to consider getting some 3.55 (auto I-6) or some 4.10 auto 4 banger axles
 
If you happen to pull your front shafts for any kind of service in the near future, think about upgrading to full circle clips. Adds a little piece of mind. Other than that, things look good. Regear if you can but I'd bet that the 4.7 has enough to make up for your current gearing shortage.
 
regearing: do you like how it fell now or is it marginal or under powered to you. If so regear.
You may need stops and/ot triming to make it work.
steering: 33 is about the max for the stock set up with good TRE. Depends a lot on your type off offing too. you said your an easy goer. BUT that can very a lot too.
As always Or junk are VERY personalized Jeeps. Set very much to our likes and needs.
How about another locker that should put some of the fun back into offing.
 
If you happen to pull your front shafts for any kind of service in the near future, think about upgrading to full circle clips. Adds a little piece of mind. Other than that, things look good. Regear if you can but I'd bet that the 4.7 has enough to make up for your current gearing shortage.

Just put the new shafts in with 760s and welded the caps.
 
regearing: do you like how it fell now or is it marginal or under powered to you. If so regear.
You may need stops and/ot triming to make it work.
steering: 33 is about the max for the stock set up with good TRE. Depends a lot on your type off offing too. you said your an easy goer. BUT that can very a lot too.
As always Or junk are VERY personalized Jeeps. Set very much to our likes and needs.
How about another locker that should put some of the fun back into offing.

My 4.7 has plenty of power right now. And if i put it in low, she never struggles one bit, so i think my 3.55s will stay for now..

I have always ran stock TREs, i guessi should research and upgrade.

I like playing in rocks mostly for offroading, with the occasional trip to the desert for high speed antics.

She is already locked front and rear, so where would the third locker go, lol....
 
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