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Dana 30 3 link

Jeep450r

NAXJA Forum User
NAXJA Member
Location
Nor*cal
I am thinking about fabbing up a 3 link for my Dana 30. Can I use the stock lower and driver side upper mounts on the axle? How much separation (Vertical and horizontal) will I need on the frame side? Can I use this (http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Dual-frame-link-mount_p_1164.html) bracket on the frame side?

Any tips/info will be greatly appreciated!
 
You can't use the DS upper mount unless you put a solid joint in it. No bushings in a 3 link. I would do what most do and build a new upper mount on the pass side or buy one from ballistic. If you do that you might be able to use the mount you posted. That is if you plated the 'frame'. It will rip off if you just try to weld it straight to the body. Take a look at my 3 link build. It was honestly pretty simple and gives me great CA angles.

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1015930&page=3
 
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Check out Ironrock offroads 3 link. Theirs uses the upper cast drivers side mount and both factory lowers.
 
Currie offers a Johnny Joint small enough to be pressed into the stock UCA locations.

http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/product.aspx?id=2890

Scott

Yeah i just thought about that. You still have to work around the fuel lines and driveshaft on the driver side

Check out Ironrock offroads 3 link. Theirs uses the upper cast drivers side mount and both factory lowers.

I think he wants a true 3 link. Not a radius arm setup. Lots of people confuse them but they perform completely different.
 
I think he wants a true 3 link. Not a radius arm setup. Lots of people confuse them but they perform completely different.

Correct, I would like a true 3 link setup.

Isn't the upper arm supposed to be longer than the lower arms to help with the caster angle change while the suspension cycles? In that case, the mount I posted earlier wouldn't work... correct?
 
Check out Ironrock offroads 3 link. Theirs uses the upper cast drivers side mount and both factory lowers.


I wish we could see one 3-link thread without that kit being brought up....you know, with it not being a 3-link and all.
 
The geometry is easiest to figure out if the arms are actually the exact same length. Sometimes to help with anti dive people will move the uca frame mount forward and run a little shorter arm if they cant fudge the other numbers.
This is what I do...
http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1021908&highlight=latest+build

I am actually redisigning the crossmember with an incorporated skid that can drop down to service the drivetrain without having to disconnect the 3 link. Should be selling that within a couple weeks.
 
Correct, I would like a true 3 link setup.

Isn't the upper arm supposed to be longer than the lower arms to help with the caster angle change while the suspension cycles? In that case, the mount I posted earlier wouldn't work... correct?

Check greatwhiteXJ's posts on page 1 and 2 here:
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=851819

Here's some other good threads:
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=777886&highlight=link
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=816361

For reference, I wanna build a 3 link as well. I'll probably go with the parts that greatwhiteXJ lists but do more of a mid-arm setup. This would be using ruffstuff and ballistic brackets.
 
Correct, I would like a true 3 link setup.

Isn't the upper arm supposed to be longer than the lower arms to help with the caster angle change while the suspension cycles? In that case, the mount I posted earlier wouldn't work... correct?

If you were designing a buggy where you could mount the arms anywhere then you would want equal seperation athe the frame and axle side with equal length arms. But you have a xj lol. So you just have to put them where they fit. I ended up with about 5.5 inches at the frame and 8.5 at the axle. My upper if also a couple inches longer then my lowers.
 
I got equal length arms, 6.7 at axle, 5.5 at frame. Thats pretty close in seperation. Finding room isnt too difficult, its how you are able to mount the links to the "frame". Just dont give in and end up with a radius arm setup. You'll regret it.
 
I got equal length arms, 6.7 at axle, 5.5 at frame. Thats pretty close in seperation. Finding room isnt too difficult, its how you are able to mount the links to the "frame". Just dont give in and end up with a radius arm setup. You'll regret it.
6.7" on the axle side? How well does this setup work? Any odd handling characteristics (brake dive, excessive body roll, ect.)? Over on Pirate, they recommend no less than 8" of vertical separation at the axle side... 6.7" seems a little short. How long are your arms?
 
He handles great, i feel like i have even more control over it then stock, probably becuase of the solid heim joints over soft rubber bushings. Body roll is mainly influenced by your pan hard and or spring stiffness. I actually didnt use a 3 link calculator when I first designed it, but checked it 3 weeks ago and i actually had decent numbers. Ani squat was at about 94 percent. The arms are 35 inches bore to bore. The reason they suggest a wider seperation is so there is minimal force on the joints. Im only running 35s and have no problems. On my new lifts I have opened up the seperation on both sides but honestly it was for clearance problems with a bolt on assembly.
 
If your running all hard joints then I wouldnt be worried be worried to go down to 7 on the axle. Just remember there is only one upper link keeping your front end from twisting so the less force it has to endure the better. I have holes for 7.5 8.5 and 9.5. If i did it again I would run 7.5 or 7 and raise my lower mounts up some.
 
What do you guys think of using a 3/4 heim and curries UCA JJ (http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/product.aspx?id=2890) for the upper link, and 7/8 heims for the lowers?

Would you guys trust the stock UCA mounts? I know the cast mount on the drivers side is fine, but what about the passenger?

Should I mount the frame side UCA heim sideways, so the bolt going through it is vertical?

How much frame end separation should I look for when using stock upper and lower axle mounts?
 
The passenger side mount is weak. I've screwed one up by accident before - and proceeded to bend it back into shape with a carpentry hammer and a pair of vice grips. If you're doing a 3 link with a d30 either use the driver side upper mount, or an aftermarket upper mount on the passenger side. I've seen a solid bar stock one somewhere (probably WAY overkill, but hey, it's not gonna break), but for some reason I can't think of the company that makes it.
 
Wouldn't a 3 link be what the WJ has in the rear? Lower control arms with a triangular link on top to control lateral motion.

If I were doing a rear 3 link, that is what it would be. Also known as a wishbone.

In a front 3 link, you have two lower arms and a single upper control arm. Then you have a Panhard/track bar to control the lateral movement.
 
If I were doing a rear 3 link, that is what it would be. Also known as a wishbone.

In a front 3 link, you have two lower arms and a single upper control arm. Then you have a Panhard/track bar to control the lateral movement.


It is kind of misleading because you do technically have 4 links. So a standard 3 link with pan hard should be called a 4 link, a standard 4 link with pan hard should be a 5 link, then you would have a triangulated 3 link which you could just call a 3 link, and a triangulated 4 link that you could just call a 4 link. I think there would be less confusion but now its all messed up. lol
 
What do you guys think of using a 3/4 heim and curries UCA JJ (http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/product.aspx?id=2890) for the upper link, and 7/8 heims for the lowers?

Would you guys trust the stock UCA mounts? I know the cast mount on the drivers side is fine, but what about the passenger?

Should I mount the frame side UCA heim sideways, so the bolt going through it is vertical?

How much frame end separation should I look for when using stock upper and lower axle mounts?

Anybody else?
 
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