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New Pads = no stop???

bleed the brakes. try to find a leak.
 
How many time didyou try your brakes?
After compressing piston into cal you have a big gap between pad and rotor, Pump the brakes some more keeping an eye on you fluid level as you go. This should fix your problem.
 
Khary23 said:
Because when you put new pads on the fluid gets displaced by the caliper being pushed in which can lead to air in the lines.
Click to expand...

Uh.., no. I have done probably thousands of brake jobs and that's not the case. If the hydraulic system hasn't been opened there's no need to bleed it.

Something else is causing the problem- who knows what they did, may have been some other parts replaced that did get air in the system.

Take it back to the shop that did the work.
 
JJacobs said:
Uh.., no. I have done probably thousands of brake jobs and that's not the case. If the hydraulic system hasn't been opened there's no need to bleed it.

Something else is causing the problem- who knows what they did, may have been some other parts replaced that did get air in the system.

Take it back to the shop that did the work.
Click to expand...

Then once they fix it, never go to that shop again.....especially if they're willing to let you leave with almost zero brakes. And they would have noticed it instantly when they pulled it back out of the shop.
 
JJacobs said:
Uh.., no. I have done probably thousands of brake jobs and that's not the case. If the hydraulic system hasn't been opened there's no need to bleed it.

Something else is causing the problem- who knows what they did, may have been some other parts replaced that did get air in the system.

Take it back to the shop that did the work.
Click to expand...


Thants what I was told was one reason for needing to bleed the brakes after replacing the pads
 
Khary23 said:
Thants what I was told was one reason for needing to bleed the brakes after replacing the pads
Click to expand...

I always open the bleeder valve when compressing the piston back in. Allow the old fluid and any trapped air to escape rather than push it back into the system.
 
No other parts were replaced, pads only. i did the job my self. bedded with 8, 50mph to 10mph hard stops then drove and let cool for 20min still not much behind pedal. will stop (slowley) but not near as well as the last cheepy pads.
 
Have you adjusted the rears? Checked for wheel cylinder leaks?

Can you "pump up" the brakes to get a harder pedal?

If you don't open the bleeders before pushing pistons back in you take a chance of pushing crap back into the MC and causing problems there.
 
Another thing people don't realize is you can ruin your master cylinder seals by pumping the brakes all the way to the floor after you compress the caliper piston. Same thing goes with bench bleeding a master cylinder. You're only supposed to stroke the piston a short bit, it's not used to such a long travel and can really damage your internals. Same thing with the pedal, just pump it lightly until it gets nice and stiff again. Maybe you did this by smashing the pedal to the floor.
 
The above reply by danman is bogus.

And Joe, technically on an ABS equipped vehicle it's recommended to open the bleeders to keep stuff out of the ABS hydraulic control unit, but in real life nothing ever comes of it. The master cylinder is a non-issue here.
 
I've run across a few vehicles that get really touchy about rotor surface finish. Had a few that when the rotors were turned with the on-car lathe (preferred method) the car just flat would not stop. Almost hit the car in the bay behind me. Turned the rotors on the old Ammco lathe and it stopped fine.

It's probably a surface finish versus pad composition issue, assuming no assembly errors.
 
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